Fitting Replacement Shock Absorbers to Elise Series II
Discussion
My 2002 Type 25 has just failed its MOT due to leakage from its rear shocks and, with Xmas bills just around the corner, I'm considering doing the job myself. Can anyone advise me as to the degree of complexity involved in removal/fitting of shocks? Any special tools or mechanical ability required? Heaven would be a link to a step-by-step guide to the job (are you out there Janitor?!) Thanks y'all.
Very easy job. Just eight bolts to undo (two per damper). Remove old damper/spring unit, insert new damper/spring unit torque up the new bolts.
Make sure you use new bolts of the correct grade, check the Seloc techwiki for torque sttings and finally make sure you set the wheels at the road ride height before torqueing up. Worth getting the geo checked afterwards too.
Make sure you use new bolts of the correct grade, check the Seloc techwiki for torque sttings and finally make sure you set the wheels at the road ride height before torqueing up. Worth getting the geo checked afterwards too.
I'm gonna be fitting my s2 bilstein kit to my S1 on monday...
What I dont understand is why the bolts have to be torqued up at the mid-laden ride height?
What is the reason for this? Is it to stop the bushes round the bolts spinning round when the car is lowered/weighted back onto the ground??
Chadders
What I dont understand is why the bolts have to be torqued up at the mid-laden ride height?
What is the reason for this? Is it to stop the bushes round the bolts spinning round when the car is lowered/weighted back onto the ground??
Chadders
I don't know if this helps or even if you dampers are re-buildable, but if they are; I had my Noble ones re-built via Plans (They did the fitting aswell).
If you really want to save money I bet you could find a reliable source for re-building on here or SELOC, should be cheap as chips if you do all the donkey work.
F.C.
ETS. From memory I had mine removed, re-built, fitted and the geo done for about £400.00 (Plans had a spare set of dampers they lent me for a couple of weeks while my units were being serviced).
If you really want to save money I bet you could find a reliable source for re-building on here or SELOC, should be cheap as chips if you do all the donkey work.
F.C.
ETS. From memory I had mine removed, re-built, fitted and the geo done for about £400.00 (Plans had a spare set of dampers they lent me for a couple of weeks while my units were being serviced).
Edited by F.C. on Wednesday 12th November 08:55
F.C. said:
I don't know if this helps or even if you dampers are re-buildable, but if they are; I had my Noble ones re-built via Plans (They did the fitting aswell).
If you really want to save money I bet you could find a reliable source for re-building on here or SELOC, should be cheap as chips if you do all the donkey work.
F.C.
ETS. From memory I had mine removed, re-built, fitted and the geo done for about £400.00 (Plans had a spare set of dampers they lent me for a couple of weeks while my units were being serviced).
Not sure if the Bilsteins (standard S2 fitment) are rebuildable. They're not too pricey though. The price you got from plans looks crakcing value though.If you really want to save money I bet you could find a reliable source for re-building on here or SELOC, should be cheap as chips if you do all the donkey work.
F.C.
ETS. From memory I had mine removed, re-built, fitted and the geo done for about £400.00 (Plans had a spare set of dampers they lent me for a couple of weeks while my units were being serviced).
Edited by F.C. on Wednesday 12th November 08:55
Nitrons (which many fit aftermarket) are rebuildable and its well worth doing given the cost of new ones.
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