Cam Replacement

[jimmyV8]

I am thinking about doing some work over the winter and a new cam shaft is on the list. I have done some amatuer mechanics(changed clutches, head gaskets, etc) in the past but nothing as of yet on the V8. I have a few questions:
1. How straight forward is the cam swap for the untrained mechanic?
2. Is it an engine out job, or is it possible to extract the cam with engine in place?
3. Is it worth cleaning up the heads, valve seats etc at the same time?

Any feedback would be great cheers

[scotty_d]

The cam can be done in the car i have a friend with a 450 who has done it twice in the space of a week as he fitted the wrong cam and it ran like a bag of nails, he is now quite quick at cam changes and says that it is a bit footery but can be done. if you know your way round an engine like you do it is not to hard the RV8 is a straight forward engine and i would say if your going to that level do everything that need to be done when its in bits.

Edited by scotty_d on Tuesday 11th November 23:45

[spend]

It is not necessary to remove heads, thats a separate task if you so wish, finding TDC is easier though

[jimmyV8]

Can the cam be extracted with the engine in its current position or do the engine mounts need to be released and just jacked up a little at the front?

[Red Cabbage]

jimmyV8 said:

Can the cam be extracted with the engine in its current position or do the engine mounts need to be released and just jacked up a little at the front?

The chassis crossmember has to come off and so does the exhaust Y piece, but the engine can stay on its mounts.

[Barkychoc]

Unbolt your rocker shafts and have a look at them underneath where the rockers are while you are at it (pull them to one side against the spring) - you will see some scoring if they are worn.
If they are you must replace shafts and rockers - the rockers get steel filings (bits of cam!) embedded in them which will quickly wear away any replacement shafts.

[MikeTVR]

I've just fitted an MC1 cam which I bought from 'V8 Developments'. My car is a 4.0HC which was always lumpy below aboout 2200RPM. The new cam has greatly improved this, so I'm really chuffed. I haven't noticed any difference in top end performance.
I found the job fairly straight forward, but here are some things to be aware of :-
I went to the trouble of establishing exact TDC and checking the crank angle at which the cam was at its TDC. It turned out that the standard sprockets supplied by V8Dev were spot on and there was no need for an adjustable sprocket.
Setting the rocker preload is accomplished by fitting oversize temporary shims under the rocker shaft stantions - I used -0.080" washers. You then measure each gap and work out a shim thicknes that will give a 0.020" to 0.060" preload. This should be biassed towards 0.060" if you end up having a choice. (The gaps will vary and shims come in standard sizes so you end up with a compromise) - Mine didn't need any shims at all. I used a 3 fingered puller to get one of the sprockets off - not sure whether this would have been achievable without it.
No need to remove the sump - but you'll need plenty of gasket goo to seal the front end of the sump when replacing the timing chain casting.
I had to replace a rusting small bore coolant pipe which protrudes from the inlet manifold. I drilled and tapped it to fit a brass fitting.
If you have any problems ring me on 0121 351 7533
Mike

[spend]

MikeTVR said:

I had to replace a rusting small bore coolant pipe which protrudes from the inlet manifold. I drilled and tapped it to fit a brass fitting.

Just block that off if its the throttle warmer connection. IME the 'bent pipe' can be got out to reveal a 5/16UNF thread which is easy to bung up, then you only need a pipe stub'n'bung on the heater pipe

[jimmyV8]

Thanks for everyones in put, I think the MC1 cam is going to be my choice now just to sit down and work out when I am going to get started!

By the way is there a Haynes manual or similar available with the engine in just for reference for torques, etc?

[blitzracing]

There is the Haynes Range Rover manual for the V8 (ISBN 1 85960 274 6) for the pre serps, but there is loads missing from it, it does not even mention the cam preload setting. It does however give you the torque settings and some basic ideas however, and it has quite a good section on ECU fault finding. Its worth looking at the bits about head bolts torque and gaskets if yours is a pre serp on the RPI site

www.rpiv8.com

Use the site map to find the General bits about the engines

Mark

[blitzracing]

Actually forget the haynes manuals, just downnload the origional manuals for the RV8 as per Range Rover here:

http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_...

Its a big download, and you have to burn the "iso" file to a CD, but its a full set of manuals for both pre and post serp engines.

Mark

[daz the plumber]

tvrmike is a top man ,he went through my car with a fine tooth comb .i have a mc1 cam but remember more you move away from standard more likely you will have pay even more out with mr mark adams !