I want to make my bike lighter! any suggestions?
I want to make my bike lighter! any suggestions?
Author
Discussion

AbarthChris

Original Poster:

2,259 posts

238 months

Thursday 13th November 2008
quotequote all
Right, here's the thing... I want to make my Commencal Meta 666 a bit lighter but without compromising durability. I've had some of the components for years and they've taken a battering without breaking. Ideally, I'd like to shed a few pounds and I have a few ideas but I thought i'd put it to the PH massive.

Oh, and I'm 6ft2 and weigh about 12 stone so theres no point in me losing weight before anyone suggests it!

Heres my current spec:
'08 Commencal Meta 666 VIP frame
'05 Fox 36 Vanilla R
Mavic D321 built on Hope Bulb Fr / XC Rr with plain spokes
XT shifters / Front Mech / Cassette
XTR rear mech
Sram PC991 chain
RaceFace Atlas X-type crank
RaceFace Evolve Stem
Easton EA30 bars
FSA Pig Headset
Hope M4 Discs 200mm f / 180mm r
Thomsom Seatpost
SDG Bel Air Ti saddle
Maxxis High Roller 2.35 dual ply tyres
ODI lockons
Shimano M545 pedals

I don't want to spend mega money but I would like some lighter wheels which look trick smile


carbonjunkie

228 posts

220 months

Thursday 13th November 2008
quotequote all
Change the tyres for something like a hutchinson scorpion. by far the biggest bangs per buck in terms of weight loss.

Mr POD

5,153 posts

215 months

Thursday 13th November 2008
quotequote all
Can I ask Why you need to make it lighter ?

Are you competing ?

I have a 'mountain bike' that is made of a lead substitute or very thick steel. Riding it off road just increases the effort required, which surely improves my fitness.

AbarthChris

Original Poster:

2,259 posts

238 months

Thursday 13th November 2008
quotequote all
Mr POD said:
Can I ask Why you need to make it lighter ?

Are you competing ?

I have a 'mountain bike' that is made of a lead substitute or very thick steel. Riding it off road just increases the effort required, which surely improves my fitness.
Because I have pipe cleaner arms and lifting it into the workstand is difficult for me smile

In all seriousness, its just to make it that little bit more responsive. I don't struggle with it up the hills, in fact I can whup a few people on their lightweight xc bikes. Its just personal choice!

Jimbo.

4,166 posts

212 months

Thursday 13th November 2008
quotequote all
If you want "responsive" then wouldn't it be best to lose weight from the wheels? If so, lighter wheel-build, sir? Pro 2 hubs, DB spokes (Comp?) and (assuming 21mm rim is what you want), EN521 rims (lighter than the EX721s) and lighter tyres/tubes?

AbarthChris

Original Poster:

2,259 posts

238 months

Thursday 13th November 2008
quotequote all
Jimbo. said:
If you want "responsive" then wouldn't it be best to lose weight from the wheels? If so, lighter wheel-build, sir? Pro 2 hubs, DB spokes (Comp?) and (assuming 21mm rim is what you want), EN521 rims (lighter than the EX721s) and lighter tyres/tubes?
Yep, thats one of the main thoughts. I have no idea about the current mavic rim range so want something lighter than the old 321's but still reasonable wide / strong.

Or can anyone suggest a nice pre-built wheelset that looks trick but doesnt cost more than £500?

-C-

518 posts

218 months

Thursday 13th November 2008
quotequote all
The D321 is the predecessor to the 729. Somewhat overkill on an 'all mountain' bike. I don't even run anything that big on a DH bike.

Keep the Bulbs & lace them up to some 719's, you will save 200g a rim there.

Lose the dual ply tyres unless all you do is DH. They are nearly 1.2kg each! You should realistically be able to get a good volume, all mountain capable tyre for around 750-800g.

Thats 1.2kg to start with, which will make a huge difference to the way the bike rides, with it being unsprung, rotational weight.

Other smaller differences, bin the Evolve stem, get a Thomson, lose the headset for one of the new Cane Creek ones. Lose the brakes for something lighter?

Wheels & tyres will make by far the biggest difference.

LRdriver II

1,936 posts

272 months

Thursday 13th November 2008
quotequote all
Yeah, people tend to run far too burly equipment on all mountain rigs. No need as the suspension will actually lower the impact on the equipment. Lighter wheels are the key to sorting weight issues.

Riding a light bike means the world in terms of responsiveness, like flinging a lightweight sportscar around as opposed to a 500bhp saloon.

WildCards

4,061 posts

240 months

Thursday 13th November 2008
quotequote all
AbarthChris said:
Or can anyone suggest a nice pre-built wheelset that looks trick but doesnt cost more than £500?
DT Swiss EX1750. I have them on my Meta4 and they're freakin awesome. Whatsischops also has them, and i'm pretty sure he's been happy with them from what he was saying at CC the other week. Looking at the below CRC linky, they sem to have gone up in price though, I paid £430 or thereabouts a year ago for mine, i'd expect they'll come down again just after christmas if your prepared to wait.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Basket.aspx



Edited by WildCards on Friday 14th November 10:04

AbarthChris

Original Poster:

2,259 posts

238 months

Friday 14th November 2008
quotequote all
-C- said:
The D321 is the predecessor to the 729. Somewhat overkill on an 'all mountain' bike. I don't even run anything that big on a DH bike.

Keep the Bulbs & lace them up to some 719's, you will save 200g a rim there.

Lose the dual ply tyres unless all you do is DH. They are nearly 1.2kg each! You should realistically be able to get a good volume, all mountain capable tyre for around 750-800g.

Thats 1.2kg to start with, which will make a huge difference to the way the bike rides, with it being unsprung, rotational weight.

Other smaller differences, bin the Evolve stem, get a Thomson, lose the headset for one of the new Cane Creek ones. Lose the brakes for something lighter?

Wheels & tyres will make by far the biggest difference.
Pretty much exactly what I was after! Cheers mate

The wheels are from my old Kona Chute hardtail, I ran heavier wheels as I used to pringle a few on rocks. I just havent changed them as they've soldiered on for years without even being trued.

The brakes are the original M4's so pretty heavy, the evolve stem was a quick fix for the new frame.

So far, I'm thinking...

The DT Swiss EX1750 wheelset (when it becomes a bit cheaper -cheers Wildcards)
Thomson stem
Carbon Bars - Easton or Control Tech
Single ply High Rollers
New headset


That should be a fair loss!

_daveR

6,146 posts

250 months

Friday 14th November 2008
quotequote all
AbarthChris said:
-C- said:
The D321 is the predecessor to the 729. Somewhat overkill on an 'all mountain' bike. I don't even run anything that big on a DH bike.

Keep the Bulbs & lace them up to some 719's, you will save 200g a rim there.

Lose the dual ply tyres unless all you do is DH. They are nearly 1.2kg each! You should realistically be able to get a good volume, all mountain capable tyre for around 750-800g.

Thats 1.2kg to start with, which will make a huge difference to the way the bike rides, with it being unsprung, rotational weight.

Other smaller differences, bin the Evolve stem, get a Thomson, lose the headset for one of the new Cane Creek ones. Lose the brakes for something lighter?

Wheels & tyres will make by far the biggest difference.
Pretty much exactly what I was after! Cheers mate

The wheels are from my old Kona Chute hardtail, I ran heavier wheels as I used to pringle a few on rocks. I just havent changed them as they've soldiered on for years without even being trued.

The brakes are the original M4's so pretty heavy, the evolve stem was a quick fix for the new frame.

So far, I'm thinking...

The DT Swiss EX1750 wheelset (when it becomes a bit cheaper -cheers Wildcards)
Thomson stem
Carbon Bars - Easton or Control Tech
Single ply High Rollers
New headset


That should be a fair loss!
Don't bother with the carbon bars, just get some EA70s they are only another 20g or so over carbons and it's a bit safer on a bigger bike.

I wouldn't go for the high rollers either. Still very heavy. Look at some 2.25" Schwalbe Nobby Nicks or 2008 Racing Ralphs. These are well under 600g each. Combined with some lightweight tubes (Maxxis welterweights on my bike) it would make a huge difference.

RE: the headset, I've just put a Crank Brother one on my Soda and whilst I can't comment on the longevity of it, the finish is good and it weighs fk all. Only £50 too.

If you want to go real light on the wheels then build up some 719s with Tune ISO hubs. Not cheap but very very light.

LRdriver II

1,936 posts

272 months

Friday 14th November 2008
quotequote all
Remember to get white bars.. the colour has been proven to be 10mph faster

mk1fan

10,840 posts

248 months

Friday 14th November 2008
quotequote all
Hope ProII hubs, Stans Arch rims with valve cores, tyre spunk and any tyre you want. Very light weight and very resonsive.

snotrag

15,493 posts

234 months

Saturday 15th November 2008
quotequote all
mk1fan said:
Hope ProII hubs, Stans Arch rims with valve cores, tyre spunk and any tyre you want. Very light weight and very resonsive.
Exactly what I run, and exactly what I was about to type!

If you keep you Bulbs you wont get the full weight benefit, the New hope hubs are a touch lighter. If you get new hubs, it leaves you with a full wheelset to sell/for spares.

Theres 4 models of ZTR rim, the ARCH does me fine - similar in size to an EX721 (Old D521) but weighs far, far less. Run tubeless with single ply Maxxis (Not UST ones, just normal cheap ones).

Strong as you'll ever need, and very light, tonnes of grip, run em at 20psi if you want and they wont burp or pinch flat.

Superb.

Inner tubes = the past.



mk1fan

10,840 posts

248 months

Sunday 16th November 2008
quotequote all
I run the Arch rim on my Hustler and am having the front wheel of the Shocker rebuilt with a Flow rim. The rear hub will be done once I get used to landing the beast wink When the 321's get tired on the Stiffee they'll be replace with the Olympic 355's.

Some people don't get on with tubeless though.

Saddle bum

4,211 posts

242 months

Sunday 16th November 2008
quotequote all
Have you actually considered losing some weight?

Paying out cash for so-called superior components becomes nugatory expenditure after a while, especially when dropping a few pounds is far more effective.

zagato

1,136 posts

224 months

Sunday 16th November 2008
quotequote all
Expensive option: change everything!


Free option:

Remove the rear brakes and lever (which should only be used for 5% of the work anyway).

Remove front gear rings, derailure and lever (select a good all round single front chain ring ratio).







RobDickinson

31,343 posts

277 months

Sunday 16th November 2008
quotequote all
zagato said:
Remove the rear brakes and lever (which should only be used for 5% of the work anyway).
Yeah sacrifice stopping ability for a few grammes...

-C-

518 posts

218 months

Sunday 16th November 2008
quotequote all
snotrag said:
mk1fan said:
Hope ProII hubs, Stans Arch rims with valve cores, tyre spunk and any tyre you want. Very light weight and very resonsive.
Exactly what I run, and exactly what I was about to type!

If you keep you Bulbs you wont get the full weight benefit, the New hope hubs are a touch lighter. If you get new hubs, it leaves you with a full wheelset to sell/for spares.

Theres 4 models of ZTR rim, the ARCH does me fine - similar in size to an EX721 (Old D521) but weighs far, far less. Run tubeless with single ply Maxxis (Not UST ones, just normal cheap ones).

Strong as you'll ever need, and very light, tonnes of grip, run em at 20psi if you want and they wont burp or pinch flat.

Superb.

Inner tubes = the past.
The trouble with Stans rims is, due to the lack of sidewall & the bead lock system they run, you ding one, say goodbye to running it tubeless, as you can't get them to seal.

I'm not convinced to the merits of tubeless, I ran it on my DH bike (823's & Maxxis) and had more punctures over 6 months than I have had in the last 4 years. And yes, I was running sealant. No lighter than a comparable tubed set up either.

On smaller bikes, the tyres are heavier for tubeless applications, so there is no advantage there compared to a lighter tyre & latex tube.

snotrag

15,493 posts

234 months

Sunday 16th November 2008
quotequote all
-C- said:
On smaller bikes, the tyres are heavier for tubeless applications, so there is no advantage there compared to a lighter tyre & latex tube.
Ah but thats the difference between your UST system and the Stans system.

Im not running the heavy 'tubeless ready' tyres.

Im running the exact same tyres I used to put tubes in. My tubeless wheels are definitely lighter, AND stronger than my old Hope/519/521/tube setup.


Oh, and I've punctured once since March. thumbup

Edited by snotrag on Sunday 16th November 19:10