brake line connectors ...copper grease ?

[jackal]

generally not practised but is it a good idea or not so good ?

[dilbert]

I think it's a good idea. I guess there is the possibility of contamination, but I've never had a problem. What it stops is the fittings welding themselves to the pipes and each other, ready to shear off next time you work on it.

I usually put a dob on the pipe where the fitting would be and wipe it around the pipe before pushing the fitting over the grease. Then just wipe some grease into the threads and do the joint up.

Edited by dilbert on Friday 14th November 16:38

[HRG]

jackal said:

generally not practised but is it a good idea or not so good ?

Use fresh brake fluid to lube the fittings.

[jackal]

ok thanks

[mgrays]

I'm with Dilbert .. there is risk of contamination but in reality it never happens as you horse a litre of fluid through afterwards (well the stuff is cheap, the bottle goes off in a few months and you can never get a perfect bleed so more is better).

If you really want .. use either "rubber grease for brakes" or Silicon grease .. both are brake fluid compatible.

The idea of using brake fluid while safe is not so good in the long term; it is hydroscopic and aggressive so it first softens any coating and then pulls water in to corrode it. I always flush outside with lots of water afterwards and then paint/wax etc. The water will flush the brake fluid away and the coatings keep the rust at bay.

[Pushrod-Power]

mgrays said:

I'm with Dilbert .. there is risk of contamination but in reality it never happens as you horse a litre of fluid through afterwards (well the stuff is cheap, the bottle goes off in a few months and you can never get a perfect bleed so more is better).

If you really want .. use either "rubber grease for brakes" or Silicon grease .. both are brake fluid compatible.

The idea of using brake fluid while safe is not so good in the long term; it is hydroscopic and aggressive so it first softens any coating and then pulls water in to corrode it. I always flush outside with lots of water afterwards and then paint/wax etc. The water will flush the brake fluid away and the coatings keep the rust at bay.

Exactly,and how are you supposed to gauge if you have any leaks arond the fittings if you just smeared/dipped the threads in brakefluid good one NOT

[dilbert]

Pushrod-Power said:

mgrays said:

I'm with Dilbert .. there is risk of contamination but in reality it never happens as you horse a litre of fluid through afterwards (well the stuff is cheap, the bottle goes off in a few months and you can never get a perfect bleed so more is better).

If you really want .. use either "rubber grease for brakes" or Silicon grease .. both are brake fluid compatible.

The idea of using brake fluid while safe is not so good in the long term; it is hydroscopic and aggressive so it first softens any coating and then pulls water in to corrode it. I always flush outside with lots of water afterwards and then paint/wax etc. The water will flush the brake fluid away and the coatings keep the rust at bay.

Exactly,and how are you supposed to gauge if you have any leaks arond the fittings if you just smeared/dipped the threads in brakefluid good one NOT

Clearly you have never used copper grease. Had you doneso you would realise that when it mixes with any potential leaking brake fluid, not only do the metal particles in the grease leave a trace where leaking fluid runs across surfaces, it also leaves a "tell tale" mark on the floor.

[HRG]

Pushrod-Power said:

mgrays said:

I'm with Dilbert .. there is risk of contamination but in reality it never happens as you horse a litre of fluid through afterwards (well the stuff is cheap, the bottle goes off in a few months and you can never get a perfect bleed so more is better).

If you really want .. use either "rubber grease for brakes" or Silicon grease .. both are brake fluid compatible.

The idea of using brake fluid while safe is not so good in the long term; it is hydroscopic and aggressive so it first softens any coating and then pulls water in to corrode it. I always flush outside with lots of water afterwards and then paint/wax etc. The water will flush the brake fluid away and the coatings keep the rust at bay.

Exactly,and how are you supposed to gauge if you have any leaks arond the fittings if you just smeared/dipped the threads in brakefluid good one NOT

Err, you wipe the excess off you frikkin donut. So what qualification do you have that means you are better qualified than the manufacturers of my brakes, as this was their advice.

[Pushrod-Power]

HRG said:

Pushrod-Power said:

mgrays said:

I'm with Dilbert .. there is risk of contamination but in reality it never happens as you horse a litre of fluid through afterwards (well the stuff is cheap, the bottle goes off in a few months and you can never get a perfect bleed so more is better).

If you really want .. use either "rubber grease for brakes" or Silicon grease .. both are brake fluid compatible.

The idea of using brake fluid while safe is not so good in the long term; it is hydroscopic and aggressive so it first softens any coating and then pulls water in to corrode it. I always flush outside with lots of water afterwards and then paint/wax etc. The water will flush the brake fluid away and the coatings keep the rust at bay.

Exactly,and how are you supposed to gauge if you have any leaks arond the fittings if you just smeared/dipped the threads in brakefluid good one NOT

Err, you wipe the excess off you frikkin donut. So what qualification do you have that means you are better qualified than the manufacturers of my brakes, as this was their advice.

Think outside the box numbnuts,the manafacturer also tells owners to run their engines in for a thousand miles also suppose you do that too i suppose just because the manafacturer says something does not mean its the best solution,i would still stick with the copperslip just refrain from getting it on the flare or in the pipe a smear on the threads is all thats called for,and HRG i would stay away from cars if you have to quote what the manafacturer as told you as your argument stick with your computers boy

Edited by Pushrod-Power on Saturday 13th December 10:48

[HRG]

Now is probably the time to mention that I did a five year City & Guilds apprenticeship as mechanical engineer... So bring it on cowboy, bring your qualifications to the table or fk off giving people incorrect advice. Copper grease has it's place, but brake threads isn't one of them.

[Pushrod-Power]

HRG said:

Now is probably the time to mention that I did a five year City & Guilds apprenticeship as mechanical engineer... So bring it on cowboy, bring your qualifications to the table or fk off giving people incorrect advice. Copper grease has it's place, but brake threads isn't one of them.

Dont be a clown,i passed City & Guilds in motor vehicle and it was so easy a 10 year old could have done it with their eyes shut,i also passed City & Guilds in maths back in the eighties when i was leaving school and that was just as daft(multiple choice)so please dont throw your City & Guilds crap at me City & Guilds means st all its experience that matters,something you obviously dont behold otherwise you would not have come out with your stupid lubeing the fittings with brakefluid comment,get back on the tools and get some experience behind you before you dig yourself an even bigger hole

Edited by Pushrod-Power on Saturday 13th December 13:51

[spend]

I think Blairout was referring to AP who are eminently qualified to comment on brake assembly issues.

At least I could understand what he wrote, unlike some C&G standard postings

[jackal]

well i can tell you that Bremobo dont know WTF they are doing

they see fit to loctite porsche caliper plate screws in, causing all manner of grief years down the line


thinking outside the box, i like that

[HRG]

spend said:

I think Blairout was referring to AP who are eminently qualified to comment on brake assembly issues.

At least I could understand what he wrote, unlike some C&G standard postings

If I was going to travel in a plane maintained by someone else I'd hope they possessed the intelligence to follow the most basic of instructions. Sure, do things your own way if you want, but when other peoples lives depend on it it pays to follow the correct procedure or face being held liable for your errors.

The guys loading valujet 592 couldn't be arsed to follow correct procedure, nuff said.

[wildoliver]

jackal said:

well i can tell you that Bremobo dont know WTF they are doing

they see fit to loctite porsche caliper plate screws in, causing all manner of grief years down the line


thinking outside the box, i like that

Is a Bremobo some kind of bd child of these two?





?

[jackal]

lol

[Pushrod-Power]

HRG said:

spend said:

I think Blairout was referring to AP who are eminently qualified to comment on brake assembly issues.

At least I could understand what he wrote, unlike some C&G standard postings

If I was going to travel in a plane maintained by someone else I'd hope they possessed the intelligence to follow the most basic of instructions. Sure, do things your own way if you want, but when other peoples lives depend on it it pays to follow the correct procedure or face being held liable for your errors.

The guys loading valujet 592 couldn't be arsed to follow correct procedure, nuff said.

So your saying using something other than brakefluid on the unions will have dangerous consequences? you Plum you most definitely need to stay away from the motor vehicle if you think that this subject is in the same league as valujet 592,and you talk about procedure,s

[HRG]

I'm saying that it makes sense to follow manufacturers guidelines. The OP asked for the correct way to lube the fittings and the 'correct' way is to use clean fluid from a sealed container. This avoids the possibility of contamination and introducing foreign matter or a substance with a low boiling point into the braking system.

Sure, you can bodge away to your hearts content but if you don't know the 'correct' way to do something there's less chance of doing the job correctly.

[Pushrod-Power]

HRG said:

I'm saying that it makes sense to follow manufacturers guidelines. The OP asked for the correct way to lube the fittings and the 'correct' way is to use clean fluid from a sealed container. This avoids the possibility of contamination and introducing foreign matter or a substance with a low boiling point into the braking system.

Sure, you can bodge away to your hearts content but if you don't know the 'correct' way to do something there's less chance of doing the job correctly.

Ok agreed see what you mean,obviously you should make sure that any lubricant you apply to the threads does not enter the system i would presume that any one using said approach would make sure of that anyway,sorry for the name calling

Edited by Pushrod-Power on Monday 15th December 10:37