Rebuild - Part 1
Discussion
What started out as a few points requiring investigation has turned into a complete rebuild of my 450SE. There was a suspected weak rear shock absorber and lack of bite in the brakes. There has been now a complete renewal of the rear and front suspensions, steering, brakes and bushes.
I always believed the car to be a curate's egg from the amount of work required over the past year to address a multitude of parts of the car. Now I know the whole car requires detailed attention and reconstruction. It is difficult to understand how it passed the last MOT.
My point is please, owner beware!
In my position, I am not a skilled car person. In the past, I have put my car in the hands of a known TVR service centre. Circumstances required me to seek someone else and I have discovered a firm of engineers who restore and build all types of vehicles including race, exotic and classic cars. What has been disconcerting is that where these engineers have sought the advice of TVR experts, their recommendations and products turn out to be unsuitable, to put it very mildly.
I will be pleased to pass on more details and the contact of these engineers, who are in southeast Essex. They will soon be starting on the remainder of the rebuild, including taking off the body – it is not very secure on the chassis.
There will be more news on progress, later.
I always believed the car to be a curate's egg from the amount of work required over the past year to address a multitude of parts of the car. Now I know the whole car requires detailed attention and reconstruction. It is difficult to understand how it passed the last MOT.
My point is please, owner beware!
In my position, I am not a skilled car person. In the past, I have put my car in the hands of a known TVR service centre. Circumstances required me to seek someone else and I have discovered a firm of engineers who restore and build all types of vehicles including race, exotic and classic cars. What has been disconcerting is that where these engineers have sought the advice of TVR experts, their recommendations and products turn out to be unsuitable, to put it very mildly.
I will be pleased to pass on more details and the contact of these engineers, who are in southeast Essex. They will soon be starting on the remainder of the rebuild, including taking off the body – it is not very secure on the chassis.
There will be more news on progress, later.
Edited by Henry Harris on Monday 17th November 17:43
I know how you feel. What started as a flaking piece of paint in 2004 soon turned into the following:
a) New outriggers
b) New Steering cloumn bush
c) New interior inc carpets & Griff seats
d) New roof
e) Complete rebuild of Diff, Brakes, suspension.
f) Complete Re-spray
g) Efi to Carb conversion
h) New front suspenion inc SH Coilovers, brakes ad vented disks
i) Revamped elcetrics
j) Re-cored rad
The list of minor jobs is exhaustive - apart from the sticthing of the interior - I did everything myself outside when the sun was shining...
Would I do it again - yes I would but only if I had a garage and have learnt a massive ammount of info in the process - I'm now only 2 jobs from an MOT which are getting my hazards and horn to work plus a final flat and polish of the paint work...oh, and for some reason my re counter hasn't worked that well since dumping the efi..
If you need any help - don't hesitiate to ask although most of the things I never knew I learnt from some of the guys on here who know their stuff...
a) New outriggers
b) New Steering cloumn bush
c) New interior inc carpets & Griff seats
d) New roof
e) Complete rebuild of Diff, Brakes, suspension.
f) Complete Re-spray
g) Efi to Carb conversion
h) New front suspenion inc SH Coilovers, brakes ad vented disks
i) Revamped elcetrics
j) Re-cored rad
The list of minor jobs is exhaustive - apart from the sticthing of the interior - I did everything myself outside when the sun was shining...
Would I do it again - yes I would but only if I had a garage and have learnt a massive ammount of info in the process - I'm now only 2 jobs from an MOT which are getting my hazards and horn to work plus a final flat and polish of the paint work...oh, and for some reason my re counter hasn't worked that well since dumping the efi..
If you need any help - don't hesitiate to ask although most of the things I never knew I learnt from some of the guys on here who know their stuff...
Fortunately the chassis is in very good condition. For whatever reason, around the fibreglass where the body is attached needs some work
There has been such good work done to the bottom of the car, covering the Diff, suspension, brakes, etc. that I want them to examine and refurbish the top.
Other points will include ensuring the seat belts retract properly, the door mirrors work correctly, try and improve the heating and ventilation, and fit some sort of cable release to the boot for when the electrics misbehave!
There has been such good work done to the bottom of the car, covering the Diff, suspension, brakes, etc. that I want them to examine and refurbish the top.
Other points will include ensuring the seat belts retract properly, the door mirrors work correctly, try and improve the heating and ventilation, and fit some sort of cable release to the boot for when the electrics misbehave!
Edited by Henry Harris on Monday 17th November 20:33
Edited by Henry Harris on Monday 17th November 20:34
Doing yourself is sometimes the best way..and the only way. At least you will know what has been done and how it was done, best way to learn.
I think a few cars out there would surprise their owners with work that needed doing, even if they thought all was well. They're all old cars now, and really need regular maintenance if they are to 'fly' through the next MOT.
As with most things car, especially TVR related, one thing leads to another.
One minute steering bush re-furb, the next, body off resto!
Do you have any other plans for it, upgrades maybe?
Good luck.
I think a few cars out there would surprise their owners with work that needed doing, even if they thought all was well. They're all old cars now, and really need regular maintenance if they are to 'fly' through the next MOT.
As with most things car, especially TVR related, one thing leads to another.
One minute steering bush re-furb, the next, body off resto!
Do you have any other plans for it, upgrades maybe?
Good luck.
Edited by Waynester on Monday 17th November 21:46
[quote=Henry Harris]Fortunately the chassis is in very good condition. For whatever reason, around the fibreglass where the body is attached needs some work
There has been such good work done to the bottom of the car, covering the Diff, suspension, brakes, etc. that I want them to examine and refurbish the top.
Other points will include ensuring the seat belts retract properly, the door mirrors work correctly, try and improve the heating and ventilation, and fit some sort of cable release to the boot for when the electrics misbehave!
a) Seat belts are relavtively easy - shop around for the best prices. Rimmers have some good deals as the belts used are from a Triumph TR6. They do a pricey version or a budget type. I fitted the budget type as there is no difference as they have to do the same job!
b) Boot release problems will relate to poor earth, connections or an iffy relay - relays will cost £1.50 each. I 've just changed all mine for just over a tenner.
There has been such good work done to the bottom of the car, covering the Diff, suspension, brakes, etc. that I want them to examine and refurbish the top.
Other points will include ensuring the seat belts retract properly, the door mirrors work correctly, try and improve the heating and ventilation, and fit some sort of cable release to the boot for when the electrics misbehave!
a) Seat belts are relavtively easy - shop around for the best prices. Rimmers have some good deals as the belts used are from a Triumph TR6. They do a pricey version or a budget type. I fitted the budget type as there is no difference as they have to do the same job!
b) Boot release problems will relate to poor earth, connections or an iffy relay - relays will cost £1.50 each. I 've just changed all mine for just over a tenner.
Edited by GV on Monday 17th November 22:15
Some interesting reading so far - thanks. I'll get some pictures when the body is off. I will be having a roll bar fitted taking on-board all the previous advice in another post.
On the engine front, all looks good having found the engine number at long last to show that it is a genuine "Rover V8". Even with the Edelbrock carburetor set-up, the engine is sufffiently smooth and torquey for my needs, it having been checked by another local good guy.
On the engine front, all looks good having found the engine number at long last to show that it is a genuine "Rover V8". Even with the Edelbrock carburetor set-up, the engine is sufffiently smooth and torquey for my needs, it having been checked by another local good guy.
Henry Harris said:
fit some sort of cable release to the boot for when the electrics misbehave!
Series 1 cars already have this. Have a look at one. Series 2 cars have this original system cut short in the boot with a solenoid attached; all you need to is to reinstate the original route to have a twin operating system.Well after doing a body off and full re-ferb of my 280 FHC racer, I was quite shocked at some of the work done previously, esp as it was done by a well know race team. I know I can't blame every thing on them as lots of people had done work to it afterwards, but also was not happy with there response, when trying to ask them question about the car.
I think all the wedges suffered with seat belt problems. had mine 14 years, and was bad when I got it. and still is. there fine when on, just don't retract well when you take them off.
Main problem with getting other to do work, is how long do you expect them take. when I finally fixed my exhaust gasket leak myself after it being looked at several times by different dealers. it took me a few days to fix.
Helicoil heads, and re-surface the headers. but also I would not be happy to get a bill for £500 + for what looked like a gasket change.
I think all the wedges suffered with seat belt problems. had mine 14 years, and was bad when I got it. and still is. there fine when on, just don't retract well when you take them off.
Main problem with getting other to do work, is how long do you expect them take. when I finally fixed my exhaust gasket leak myself after it being looked at several times by different dealers. it took me a few days to fix.
Helicoil heads, and re-surface the headers. but also I would not be happy to get a bill for £500 + for what looked like a gasket change.
Harry, you're car probably more that any other has been heavily modified, right down to the engine, GRP bodywork, paint, electrics, pink(?) dashboard, seats, indicators, exhaust, wheels, dampers etc, etc - You must expect some issues with such extensive modifications sooner or later. Your car isn't exactly 'as standard'.
Things like chassis rot on the outriggers, diff issues, gearbox issues (especially on the bigger wedges), bush replacement, brakes, electrics playing up and seatbelt problems are par for the course for any Wedge owner along with a whole boat load of other niggles. For example the brakes on my old 450 burst into flames one day!, the chassis had to have new outriggers, the electrics played up constantly, the doors dropped and I had to have a new gear box - all within six months! When I bought the car I was also given a ring binder full of extremely expensive receipts from the previous owner - iincluding one for £8K!
Best thing to do is find a reliable garage to do the oily bits and stick with them. Do some extensive research on this forum, Wedgepages.co.uk and on the interweb in terms of solutions to issues. There is still loads of info out there to help with the relatively easy bits.
Hope things work out.
MikeyB
Things like chassis rot on the outriggers, diff issues, gearbox issues (especially on the bigger wedges), bush replacement, brakes, electrics playing up and seatbelt problems are par for the course for any Wedge owner along with a whole boat load of other niggles. For example the brakes on my old 450 burst into flames one day!, the chassis had to have new outriggers, the electrics played up constantly, the doors dropped and I had to have a new gear box - all within six months! When I bought the car I was also given a ring binder full of extremely expensive receipts from the previous owner - iincluding one for £8K!
Best thing to do is find a reliable garage to do the oily bits and stick with them. Do some extensive research on this forum, Wedgepages.co.uk and on the interweb in terms of solutions to issues. There is still loads of info out there to help with the relatively easy bits.
Hope things work out.
MikeyB
Thanks for the last post.
My car appears to be in good fettle, now that I have sorted all the niggles over the past year.
With the engineers taking the body off I will hopefully have a car about which all is known for me and any future owner.
My car appears to be in good fettle, now that I have sorted all the niggles over the past year.
With the engineers taking the body off I will hopefully have a car about which all is known for me and any future owner.
Edited by Henry Harris on Tuesday 18th November 17:43
JR said:
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
I think all the wedges suffered with seat belt problems. had mine 14 years, and was bad when I got it. and still is. there fine when on, just don't retract well when you take them off.
Hmmm. 13 years for me and snap.
If it's any consolation, my seatbelts were rubbish too...
The only trouble with having the body taken off is that you have to know where to stop. You encounter what I like to call the 'Duncan Simey effect' where you get the body off and then find another load of other issues which you can do easily whilst the body is off but would be a real pain when the body is on; when you would most likely just 'turn the radio up' and do them at a later stage!
For instance petrol petrol tank replacment, gear box bushes, inboard rear brakes, handbrake cables, petrol hoses etc etc all costing more than you originally thought as 'it would be a shame not to do them whilst we go to the pain of lifting the body'. Especially if you ain't going to do it yourself this 'effect' can double the amount paid out.
Don't take my word for it. Duncans (Nanuds) story is on the Wedgepages.
MikeyB
For instance petrol petrol tank replacment, gear box bushes, inboard rear brakes, handbrake cables, petrol hoses etc etc all costing more than you originally thought as 'it would be a shame not to do them whilst we go to the pain of lifting the body'. Especially if you ain't going to do it yourself this 'effect' can double the amount paid out.
Don't take my word for it. Duncans (Nanuds) story is on the Wedgepages.
MikeyB
JR said:
Henry Harris said:
fit some sort of cable release to the boot for when the electrics misbehave!
Series 1 cars already have this. Have a look at one. Series 2 cars have this original system cut short in the boot with a solenoid attached; all you need to is to reinstate the original route to have a twin operating system.Of course if the latch mech disconnects itself from the solenoid then you do have a bit of a problem... but even then there's a way to get in to most wedge boots.
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