oil and batt light on
Discussion
posted earlier topic, just got a jester, batt flat when i connect charger the oil and batt light glows with no ign on, batt very slow to charge unless i dis the batt. lights go off when running but back on again when stop help please have elect background but not so much on cars any directions cheers
update.. batt on car started all lights out.. turn off ign.... car still runs !!!! will stop when i switch on hazard lights !!! when i connect batt i hear a relay click on i assume this is an ign relay that should only kick in with ign on.. relay must be getting feed some how are bad earths a major prob as i know funny things can happen..thanks in advance
That's some very strange wiring going on there somewhere - possibly a short between two wires allowing enough current for the engine to keep running, and then a bit of drain when the hazards are turned on.
The hazards are meant to have some form of permanent power supply, so it's possible that the switch has been miswired.
Whereabouts in Sussex are you? I'm fairly close to the Surrey/Hampshire border (just south of Guildford), and could pop down for a quick peek if you want (I'm pretty okay with electrics, having wired all of my kit cars from scratch).
The hazards are meant to have some form of permanent power supply, so it's possible that the switch has been miswired.
Whereabouts in Sussex are you? I'm fairly close to the Surrey/Hampshire border (just south of Guildford), and could pop down for a quick peek if you want (I'm pretty okay with electrics, having wired all of my kit cars from scratch).
You have a wiring fault, possibly with a failed alternator.
The alternator should have an ignition feed to it that goes throough the 'no charge' warning light. When the ignition is off this should go to 0V. If the alternator is stationary the output will also be 0V and no current will go through the no-charge warning light. One failure mode is if the rectifier pack in the alternator fails it can allow the battery to discharge through the alternator. One symptom of this is that the battery light comes on since the alternator output is held high (due to the battery discharging through it).
If the installation is new it's also quite possible that the supply to the no-charge light has been connected to permanent 12V by mistake, or that the alternator end has been connected to the wrong terminal so it is seeing the battery voltage on the output terminal rather than the voltage across the field coil.
The alternator should have an ignition feed to it that goes throough the 'no charge' warning light. When the ignition is off this should go to 0V. If the alternator is stationary the output will also be 0V and no current will go through the no-charge warning light. One failure mode is if the rectifier pack in the alternator fails it can allow the battery to discharge through the alternator. One symptom of this is that the battery light comes on since the alternator output is held high (due to the battery discharging through it).
If the installation is new it's also quite possible that the supply to the no-charge light has been connected to permanent 12V by mistake, or that the alternator end has been connected to the wrong terminal so it is seeing the battery voltage on the output terminal rather than the voltage across the field coil.
Edited by GreenV8S on Wednesday 19th November 13:50
GreenV8S said:
You have a wiring fault, possibly with a failed alternator.
The alternator should have an ignition feed to it that goes throough the 'no charge' warning light. When the ignition is off this should go to 0V. If the alternator is stationary the output will also be 0V and no current will go through the no-charge warning light. One failure mode is if the rectifier pack in the alternator fails it can allow the battery to discharge through the alternator. One symptom of this is that the battery light comes on since the alternator output is held high (due to the battery discharging through it).
If the installation is new it's also quite possible that the supply to the no-charge light has been connected to permanent 12V by mistake, or that the alternator end has been connected to the wrong terminal so it is seeing the battery voltage on the output terminal rather than the voltage across the field coil.
hi thanks the warn light goes out when running (yet to check volts at batt)The alternator should have an ignition feed to it that goes throough the 'no charge' warning light. When the ignition is off this should go to 0V. If the alternator is stationary the output will also be 0V and no current will go through the no-charge warning light. One failure mode is if the rectifier pack in the alternator fails it can allow the battery to discharge through the alternator. One symptom of this is that the battery light comes on since the alternator output is held high (due to the battery discharging through it).
If the installation is new it's also quite possible that the supply to the no-charge light has been connected to permanent 12V by mistake, or that the alternator end has been connected to the wrong terminal so it is seeing the battery voltage on the output terminal rather than the voltage across the field coil.
Edited by GreenV8S on Wednesday 19th November 13:50
when ign key is turned off engine keeps going even when the feed wire from + side of battery is open circuit!!! ( i have installed a master switch which isolates ALL feeds to wiring) this stops the batt drain even when i open the switch engine runs from the alternator supply, and will still only stop when hazz switch is on all ind / haz light work fine...bit of a strange one this !!
tribbles said:
That's some very strange wiring going on there somewhere - possibly a short between two wires allowing enough current for the engine to keep running, and then a bit of drain when the hazards are turned on.
The hazards are meant to have some form of permanent power supply, so it's possible that the switch has been miswired.
Whereabouts in Sussex are you? I'm fairly close to the Surrey/Hampshire border (just south of Guildford), and could pop down for a quick peek if you want (I'm pretty okay with electrics, having wired all of my kit cars from scratch).
hi im actually in bognor regis may be a bit far ? have updated my findings so far on another quote.. thanks guy gals for help so far.The hazards are meant to have some form of permanent power supply, so it's possible that the switch has been miswired.
Whereabouts in Sussex are you? I'm fairly close to the Surrey/Hampshire border (just south of Guildford), and could pop down for a quick peek if you want (I'm pretty okay with electrics, having wired all of my kit cars from scratch).
tribbles said:
Not excessively far - the company I work for used to be based on Chichester, and we went out for an Indian from time to time in Bognor. PM me if you get stuck near a weekend, and I'll see if I'm available (haven't got anything planned this weekend yet).
will mail you heres an update for all that have ideas etcwhen running volts at batt are fluctuating 13.8-14.2v at terminals volt across batt when not running but immdiatly after running is 13.2v..
thats about all the info.. i dont know how long this prob has been there as only just got it and seller just told me ..he leaves batt discon when not using it.. so when where how i cannot say.. at least my main cut off switch helps to a point ta all
Most of those symptoms would be explained by the ignition switch not actually switching the ignition circuit off. It's no surprise at all that it will keep running with the battery disconnected - the alternator will keep everything powered up until the engine stopped. There are some alternator wiring faults which would lead to it keep the ignition circuit powered up from that end, but I'd start by investigating the ignition switch and confirming that it does actually switch the ignition circuit on and off.
I've been thinking of two possibilities for the wiring:
1) The alternator charge wire may have been wired it up to the nearest convenient location, rather than the nearest correct location. For example, they could've wired it up to the ignition outlet switch, or the coil power (assuming it's of that ilk), rather than the starter motor main feed or battery itself.
2) The ignition coil is permanently powered in some way - such as through the hazard switch (which would be a very odd wiring).
I'm sure there's other possibilities, but you'd need to use a continuity tester (and pull some wires out) to check.
1) The alternator charge wire may have been wired it up to the nearest convenient location, rather than the nearest correct location. For example, they could've wired it up to the ignition outlet switch, or the coil power (assuming it's of that ilk), rather than the starter motor main feed or battery itself.
2) The ignition coil is permanently powered in some way - such as through the hazard switch (which would be a very odd wiring).
I'm sure there's other possibilities, but you'd need to use a continuity tester (and pull some wires out) to check.
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