Discussion
I've just taken advantage of the current economic situation and ordered a new van, have loaded quite a few extra's on it and want to keep it looking nice.I look after my vehicles quite well without being anal. (I'm the only driver). Can anyone recommend a protection/care process. I usually use AG stuff and am quite happy to continue but wondered if now was a time for change. Will then use it on the TVR.
Thanks
Phil
Thanks
Phil
Thanks for the info guys. Another question having read the "new paint protection " thread, should I leave the paint to cure or has a new vehicle been baked enough? I'll probably take you up on that offer kds as I'm based in Swanley. Do you restrict yourself to detailing or do you do paintwork as well as I want a distinctive paint job done on the van fairly soon?
Phil
Phil
Brand new paint on a new ex-factory vehicle, will generally have had enough time lapse for it to be fully cured by the time you receive it.
At this time of year, whilst Zaino is a good range of products, I'd be suggesting Bilt Hamber Autobalm, and even their Autoclay - new vehicles can sit around for a bit once manufactured, so it's not uncommon for the paint to have accrued some industrial fallout, etc.
As for KDS - he does provide painting facilities, so you're well covered on both fronts there.
Other than that, a good wash regime is as important, if not more so, to minimising the introduction of fresh defects into the paintwork.
A good wash mitt, shampoo, and pre-wash rinsing/foaming to remove the bulk of loose grit/grime, will certainly help.
At this time of year, whilst Zaino is a good range of products, I'd be suggesting Bilt Hamber Autobalm, and even their Autoclay - new vehicles can sit around for a bit once manufactured, so it's not uncommon for the paint to have accrued some industrial fallout, etc.
As for KDS - he does provide painting facilities, so you're well covered on both fronts there.
Other than that, a good wash regime is as important, if not more so, to minimising the introduction of fresh defects into the paintwork.
A good wash mitt, shampoo, and pre-wash rinsing/foaming to remove the bulk of loose grit/grime, will certainly help.
Pjs is correct the van may of been sittng around for a while which means the paint would of cured by now , its only when vehicles are special ordered then may need a month or two too cure properly!
If it has been sitting around before being sold then it will have contaminants on the body all ready so the least would be to lightly clay the body before waxing or a light machine polish then wax.
Tried Autobalm for myself over the weekend on a really bad dark blue K reg car as an experiment, and have to say stunned by the results i have never seen a product hide so much damage with one coat!
If it is durable too then an amasing product!
Its proberly not a product i would use much, as all the cars i detail i remove the paint damage first before waxing!
I dont use products to cover and hide damage to paint work but could see why Autobalm will be popular to public!
But if its durable i could start offering packages in between the valet type wash and full paint correction !
If it has been sitting around before being sold then it will have contaminants on the body all ready so the least would be to lightly clay the body before waxing or a light machine polish then wax.
Tried Autobalm for myself over the weekend on a really bad dark blue K reg car as an experiment, and have to say stunned by the results i have never seen a product hide so much damage with one coat!
If it is durable too then an amasing product!
Its proberly not a product i would use much, as all the cars i detail i remove the paint damage first before waxing!
I dont use products to cover and hide damage to paint work but could see why Autobalm will be popular to public!
But if its durable i could start offering packages in between the valet type wash and full paint correction !
Surfex HD - superb all purpose cleaner, and so concentrated it's laughable.
A member of another forum used it to clean some bacon fat off his marble/granite worktop at 10% strength, and caused himself a bit of a problem with it, but wouldn't accept he used it at probably 5-10x stronger than it needed to be!
I use it as a pre-wash spray at 5% (10% for wheels, and if stripping a LSP) in lieu of a foaming pre-wash - not everyone wants to part with £45 or so, for a proper foam lance.
Even 10-15% should be more than enough for engine bay degunkifying.
A member of another forum used it to clean some bacon fat off his marble/granite worktop at 10% strength, and caused himself a bit of a problem with it, but wouldn't accept he used it at probably 5-10x stronger than it needed to be!
I use it as a pre-wash spray at 5% (10% for wheels, and if stripping a LSP) in lieu of a foaming pre-wash - not everyone wants to part with £45 or so, for a proper foam lance.
Even 10-15% should be more than enough for engine bay degunkifying.
edar said:
How about this?
What about it?Do you mean can Surfex HD tackle that? Yep, that's nothing for it to handle.
Won't be spotless - that's not the point, it'll soften and remove the looser upper level of grime, leaving just the film to be dealt with by the mitt and shampoo solution.
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