T350 - Alternator - How can I check it
T350 - Alternator - How can I check it
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Discussion

Blue-Lightning

Original Poster:

416 posts

268 months

Sunday 23rd November 2008
quotequote all
How can I check that the alternator is charging the battery on my T350.

Have checked all connection and the battery has been tested and all seem OK, so I need to check the alternator.

I have also had the water temp, oil pressure and oil temp sensor giving the wrong readings, could this all be linked.

Any help appreciated....thanks BL

Targarama

14,784 posts

312 months

Sunday 23rd November 2008
quotequote all
May I be the first one to suggest you do a search in the FAQ/on this part of the forum for '100A Fuse' or 100 Amp fuse. This is the most likely culprit. Sits inline between the battery and alternator, and lives in an awkward position under the airbox by the coil pack. They break down cause all kind of electrical problems, eventually letting go which means the battery is then not charging.

Blue-Lightning

Original Poster:

416 posts

268 months

Sunday 23rd November 2008
quotequote all
Targarama said:
May I be the first one to suggest you do a search in the FAQ/on this part of the forum for '100A Fuse' or 100 Amp fuse. This is the most likely culprit. Sits inline between the battery and alternator, and lives in an awkward position under the airbox by the coil pack. They break down cause all kind of electrical problems, eventually letting go which means the battery is then not charging.
Hi Targarama,
Have checked all the fuses, my 100amp has already been replaced with a 125amp, which is fine, also checked the 80 amp near the battery an that was OK as well. Thanks for the reply.

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

236 months

Sunday 23rd November 2008
quotequote all
Your POD display will give the battery voltage with ignition on/engine off, and altenator charge voltage when engine running.

If you have sensor reading issues, it is likely the auxillary engine wiring harness multi plug is in conflict with the air-box, loose or connections corroded.

Remove air box and check continuity of wiring, if faulty replace/repair harness.

With air-box off you can check voltage direct at altenator multiplug connector to ground


G

Blue-Lightning

Original Poster:

416 posts

268 months

Sunday 23rd November 2008
quotequote all
VARLEYHYD said:
Your POD display will give the battery voltage with ignition on/engine off, and altenator charge voltage when engine running.

If you have sensor reading issues, it is likely the auxillary engine wiring harness multi plug is in conflict with the air-box, loose or connections corroded.

Remove air box and check continuity of wiring, if faulty replace/repair harness.

With air-box off you can check voltage direct at altenator multiplug connector to ground


G
Thanks Graham,
Just putting the battery back in, after being on charge, will check the pod display reading.....I had previously noticed, when I have the faulty sensor reading that the battery voltage does drop to 11.9v
The faulty sensor problems started when the car was out in a down pour, the wiring harness multi-plug has been checked and cleaned by my usually garage, but I will check the wiring harness.

I have got the air box off and removed the bonnet so that I can get in and see what I am doing. The alternator has a large red cable connection and a small black one. Do I need to check the voltage between the large red connection and an earth on the chassis? I just have a basis multi-meter will this do the job?

Thanks for all the suggestions. How is the Sagaris manual coming along? Have you still got my name on the list for one.

Thanks Steve

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

236 months

Sunday 23rd November 2008
quotequote all
Blue-Lightning said:
Thanks Graham,
Just putting the battery back in, after being on charge, will check the pod display reading.....I had previously noticed, when I have the faulty sensor reading that the battery voltage does drop to 11.9v
The faulty sensor problems started when the car was out in a down pour, the wiring harness multi-plug has been checked and cleaned by my usual garage, but I will check the wiring harness.

I have got the air box off and removed the bonnet so that I can get in and see what I am doing. The alternator has a large red cable connection and a small black one. Do I need to check the voltage between the large red connection and an earth on the chassis? I just have a basic multi-meter will this do the job?

Thanks for all the suggestions. How is the Sagaris manual coming along? Have you still got my name on the list for one.

Thanks Steve
If you can pin out on the large multiplug its pin 'T' yellow wire positive(or at the altenator plug, but only if you have done it before- not much room for error!!) then use a ground chassis for -ve.

Speed Six Sagaris Manual- Your'e on the list; Will email everyone who has requested a copy this week with print/desptch for early-mid December.

G

Blue-Lightning

Original Poster:

416 posts

268 months

Sunday 23rd November 2008
quotequote all
Think this is a bit more serious than an undercharged battery. Put the battery back fully charged, connect everything and double checked the fuses.

Went to start the car, everything seemed normal, fuel pump primed, turned the ingnition on and the engined only just turned over, was like the battery was flat, but the pod display readout showed 13.2v. Tried it a couple of times and still the same. Then noticed some smoke coming from the front of the engine bay. Had a quick look but couldnt see where it was coming from, but the only thing that i could see at the front was the cable from the battery, so I assume this is overheating when turning the engine over. So now I have no idea what it could be.

One worrying thing is, that I have just checked the oil level, and there is nothing in the front tank. The car is up on axle stands at the front, so would it have all drained back into the engine? Or do I have a serious problem? The oil level was checked when I last took the car out and it was normal, it has only done about 10 miles since then.

Any ideas? Or is it going to have to go back to the dealer?

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

236 months

Sunday 23rd November 2008
quotequote all
Oh Dear scratchchin

To check if you have major problem with engine try turning by hand using the damping ring on the front of the engine with a (22mm?) ring spanner. This should move faily easliy.


If thats OK, check the engine earth near the starter to chassis.

If OK remove starter (two capscrews- no nuts) and try disconnected.

Dry sump can read no oil if left to stand for a while





G

Blue-Lightning

Original Poster:

416 posts

268 months

Sunday 23rd November 2008
quotequote all
Thanks Graham,
I will give that a try tomorrow, before I phone the garage.
Steve

thainy77

3,347 posts

227 months

Monday 24th November 2008
quotequote all
Steve thats not good mate. I shouldn't think the oil will be too much of a problem if it was up on axle stands for a while. Are you sure it was smoke or could it have been steam with all the snow about etc? How long have you got left on your warranty?

Good luck mate.

Blue-Lightning

Original Poster:

416 posts

268 months

Monday 24th November 2008
quotequote all
thainy77 said:
Steve thats not good mate. I shouldn't think the oil will be too much of a problem if it was up on axle stands for a while. Are you sure it was smoke or could it have been steam with all the snow about etc? How long have you got left on your warranty?

Good luck mate.
Was smoke, think it was the main cable from the battery to the start that was over heating.
The warranty lasts until April, so will be ringing the garage later today to arrange for them to come and collect it.

Blue-Lightning

Original Poster:

416 posts

268 months

Monday 24th November 2008
quotequote all
The problem was the earth connection between the chassis and engine block, it had corroded.

It is working again now, so just got to put it all back together.

Thanks guys for all the help. smile

Edited by Blue-Lightning on Monday 24th November 15:23

thainy77

3,347 posts

227 months

Monday 24th November 2008
quotequote all
Blue-Lightning said:
The problem was the earth connection between the chassis and engine block, it had corroded.

It is working again now, so just got to put it all back together.

Thanks guys for all the help. smile

Edited by Blue-Lightning on Monday 24th November 15:23
Thats good news mate, have your sensors started behaving now aswell then?

Blue-Lightning

Original Poster:

416 posts

268 months

Monday 24th November 2008
quotequote all
thainy77 said:
Blue-Lightning said:
The problem was the earth connection between the chassis and engine block, it had corroded.

It is working again now, so just got to put it all back together.

Thanks guys for all the help. smile

Edited by Blue-Lightning on Monday 24th November 15:23
Thats good news mate, have your sensors started behaving now aswell then?
Will let you know about the sensors, as soon as I have everything back together. The bad earth could easily be the cause of the sensor problems. So fingers crossed they might be working as well.