Help! Ignition On!
Discussion
Drove the cerb earlyer on and when i came back i put it on the drive while i moved another car. When i came back the ignition was on and i swore blind that i'd not left it on. Anyway i've just walked past the car and the ignition is on again only this time its locked! I've pressed the fob which has primed the fuel pump and taken the immobilser off but its still locked! I cant open either of the doors or the boot or the bonnet and pretty soon my battery will be flat! What the hell am i gonna do and why the hell dose my ignition keep turning itself on? Any ideas or explanations would be GREATLY APPRECIATED! Someone help me please.
I suspect the alternator has failed and is discharging the battery for you, also back-feeding the no charge warning light aka ignition warning light. If possible, arm/disarm the alarm and get it to unlock the doors and then isolate the battery before it dies completely. You'll need to park the car somewhere secure afterwards.
It may be the alternator but when i pressed the fob it took the immobilisor off and primed the fuel pump and put the oil light on so it seems more like some damp or something has triggered the ignition switch? I cant see any other way of getting in. If i could get under the bonnet i could disconnect the battery and then re connect it and if the ignition stays off then the fob may work? I'm going to go and have a look at getting the bonnet open now.
GreenV8S said:
I suspect the alternator has failed and is discharging the battery for you, also back-feeding the no charge warning light aka ignition warning light. If possible, arm/disarm the alarm and get it to unlock the doors and then isolate the battery before it dies completely. You'll need to park the car somewhere secure afterwards.
had simular prob on my kit car still not sure if its alt as when turning puts out a 14.2v to battery, not sure if the diod pack fail if it will let batt flow thru in reverse as it were but still generate when running..and lights out does your lights go out when running ?Surely if it was the alternate feeding current back through then the kill switch wouldn't have any effect? When i turn the kill switch off it turns the ignition off straight away and it stays off. With it on even if i hold down the red kill button the dash lights keep flashing and i can hear the fuel pump trying to start up as if something keeps trying to turn it on? I've had a mess about with it in the dark but with no tools or torch i seem to be making things worse! I think i have fried my door lock/windows module. I'm ashamed to admit it but i think i re connected it wrong. Can anyone confirm which plug goes where and where i can buy a new one from? This has not been a good day for me. 
I think there are several issues here:
The red and black buttons feed control signals into the ignition control module and this has some built in relays that effectively turn on power to the ECU and the rest of the ignition circuits. Some of these circuits go straight to the circuit while others go via the immobilizer which will only allow the current through if it is turned off. The immobilizer works in conjunction with the alarm circuit so that when you use the fob to turn the alarm off, the alarm sends a message to the immobilizer to switch the circuits on. The plug in socket is a direct link to the immobilizer that doesn't use the alarm. So what does all this mean.....
If the alarm is continually trying to go but the immobilizer will only go off with the plug then the alarm is likely to be at fault.
If the ignition circuits are coming on without the button being pressed then I would suspect the ignition module on top of the fuel tank in the boot.
If the doors are not opening with the alarm... then either the alarm is dodgy or the door module but if it was the door module I would expect the alarm and ignition circuits to be behaving ok.
There is one caveat to this is that the modules are very susceptible to voltage spikes etc and can get confused. Relays can stick, transistors not switch correctly and so on. This can be caused by low battery voltages - i.e flat battery where the alarm will trigger and continue to sound using its own internal backup battery - or an alternator or alternator fuse fault.
As for reconnecting the modules incorrectly... the plugs are keyed. The only thing I can think off is that you may have swapped them over. See piccy for the correct orientation. BTW it is worth taking piccies and/or labelling when playing around with these modules.
First thing is to check the door module connections as this does work with the alarm.
Second thing is to check the battery voltages and charge if necessary.
I would disconnect the battery and leave it for a while. Reconnect the battery and blip the fob until it is recognised. This should reset the alarm.
If this doesnt't work then disconnect the alternator by removing the big fuse. Now repeat and see if the problem goes away. If it does then the alternator and/or big fuse is the problem.
The red and black buttons feed control signals into the ignition control module and this has some built in relays that effectively turn on power to the ECU and the rest of the ignition circuits. Some of these circuits go straight to the circuit while others go via the immobilizer which will only allow the current through if it is turned off. The immobilizer works in conjunction with the alarm circuit so that when you use the fob to turn the alarm off, the alarm sends a message to the immobilizer to switch the circuits on. The plug in socket is a direct link to the immobilizer that doesn't use the alarm. So what does all this mean.....
If the alarm is continually trying to go but the immobilizer will only go off with the plug then the alarm is likely to be at fault.
If the ignition circuits are coming on without the button being pressed then I would suspect the ignition module on top of the fuel tank in the boot.
If the doors are not opening with the alarm... then either the alarm is dodgy or the door module but if it was the door module I would expect the alarm and ignition circuits to be behaving ok.
There is one caveat to this is that the modules are very susceptible to voltage spikes etc and can get confused. Relays can stick, transistors not switch correctly and so on. This can be caused by low battery voltages - i.e flat battery where the alarm will trigger and continue to sound using its own internal backup battery - or an alternator or alternator fuse fault.
As for reconnecting the modules incorrectly... the plugs are keyed. The only thing I can think off is that you may have swapped them over. See piccy for the correct orientation. BTW it is worth taking piccies and/or labelling when playing around with these modules.
First thing is to check the door module connections as this does work with the alarm.
Second thing is to check the battery voltages and charge if necessary.
I would disconnect the battery and leave it for a while. Reconnect the battery and blip the fob until it is recognised. This should reset the alarm.
If this doesnt't work then disconnect the alternator by removing the big fuse. Now repeat and see if the problem goes away. If it does then the alternator and/or big fuse is the problem.
I did the battery disconnect and the alarm is now working as it should but the doors/windows are not operative (due to my foolish meddling i suspect). Thank you for the picture this is how i now have the wires connected but i did have them different at first. Looking at your picture i have to wonder why mine are not labeled up like that/at all! I know that's no excuse and i should have marked them up and i always would usually but it was dark and i was frustrated and OK Ive been a dip. So now i need either a door lock/window unit to try or for someone local to try mine to tell me if this is at fault? And i still have the ignition turning on all the time problem. So maybe do the same with the ignition module while I'm at it. That's if i can find anyone local to who's willing to help out. I'd be happy if i could just close my window as it is currently in the down position. 
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