Think I've got it! Mini woe's

[Mini_Lund]

Distributer cap 180 degrees out! It has been on that way for aslong as I can remember :/ Therefore the firing order is completely wrong. Instead of 1-3-4-2 - something else!

Ok so, at TDC rotor arm is in the direction of number one spark plug (by radiator) Firing anti-clockwise, 'top right' HT lead to number one. Next going anticlockwise, to number 3, next to 4, and last to number 2.

To confirm - is this right?

It currently will not start, but I think that may be because the timing will be well out as it has been set up for the previous incorrect firing order. I will static time it tomorrow in the light and see if that makes a difference.

Should the firing order make any difference?

Thanks (fingers crossed) ,

Tom

[Skyedriver]

Starting from scratch, take off the rocker cover and turn the engine over (by hand) until you are at TDC and both valves are closed on No 1.(ie the rockers are clear of the valves) (You could always turn it over a bit further to confirm that the next valve to open is the exhaust). If this actually happens on No 4 rather than No 1 then turn the engine over again until it is No 1.
The rotor arm now needs to align with the terminal that No 1 plug lead is attached to. In reality as long as the plug lead and dist cap are firing at the top of the compression stroke (actually just before) it doesn't matter whether its at 1, 6, 3, 5, 9, or 10 oclock if you see what I mean.
Hope this garbled message helps.

[Mini_Lund]

Skyedriver said:

Starting from scratch, take off the rocker cover and turn the engine over (by hand) until you are at TDC and both valves are closed on No 1.(ie the rockers are clear of the valves) (You could always turn it over a bit further to confirm that the next valve to open is the exhaust). If this actually happens on No 4 rather than No 1 then turn the engine over again until it is No 1.
The rotor arm now needs to align with the terminal that No 1 plug lead is attached to. In reality as long as the plug lead and dist cap are firing at the top of the compression stroke (actually just before) it doesn't matter whether its at 1, 6, 3, 5, 9, or 10 oclock if you see what I mean.
Hope this garbled message helps.

I think I'm with you on this one. Its just amazing how it will start and run 180 out, but wont when its set correctly!! Madness.

Update:

Still no luck, its sparking at the points but not at the plugs i dont think, just turns over forever, just charging the battery again as we speak.

Edited by Mini_Lund on Tuesday 2nd December 13:08

[Skyedriver]

Rotor arm missing?
The centre terminal of the distributor missing?
The insulating washer below the post in the distributor missing hence shorting to the base?
The spark at the points is the points closing not opening?
Dist cap cracked?

[freddytin]

Swap 1 with 4 at the dizzy then try.


If no joy , refit 1 and 4 back to original positions.

Then swap 2 with 3 at the dizzy then try.

It will not run with all 4 cyl. 180 deg. out, sounds like only 2 cyl. are out . Hence the above advice.

Should only take a matter of seconds to try. Good Luck.

[Skyedriver]

yes, did that on a midget when i was 19, as i thought the dizzy went clockwise....

[Mini_Lund]

Ive got it running now. I'm getting a new dizzy cap tomorrow, took the 3rd lead off and it was resting on the block, then I noticed a bright light at the distributer cap! Its rough running, sometimes its worse than other times. The engine idles, then slows down alot nearly till dead, then it picks itself ack up again. Its all tempremental. Anyway I'm trying a new dizzy cap and i will report back. Theres a fine scratch on the dizzy cap - doesnt look like a crack but maybe a weakness as thats the area i noticed the spark from.

[Snake the Sniper]

Is there any bit of the engine you haven't changed yet!?
Don't worry about buggering up the dizzy order. Every one with a mini does it at some point. Normally from working in the dark or forgetting that the dizzy body can turn and confusing yourself. Have you checked the points themselves, as well as the gap? The contacts will get all manky over time due what is basically spark erosion. A quick wipe over with some fine sand paper will suffice for a quick check.

[the mini mole]

Not getting the direction of rotation of the dizzy wrong are you? Not that i've ever done that or anything...

[Mini_Lund]

Replaced the dizzy cap... no difference! :P Its all one big joke now! I think its the carb, runs like crap with the choke out, but okay with choke in. Will end up trying a different carb.

[robminiman]

mine did this about 2 or 3 months ago missfireing and not running properly i eventually found the conderser to be ruined and the points and the bearings in the distribitor and the shaft in the distribitor to be bent so only 2 of the 4 lobes on the shaft were opening the points. my advie is to try a new distribotor just out of intrest i bought on of these they are brill
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LUCAS-type-45D-electronic-di...

[Cooperman]

For about that price, if you send your old dizzy to Aldon together with your detailed engine spec they will re-build it to suit and return it within a week in 'as new' condition and ready to fit complete with static timing recommendation.

[robminiman]

oh just thort of another thing it could i had this when i first go mine going. the cenections for the ignition barrel could be coreded a go way to rule out all this is to take a pice of wire and conect one end to a constand live on the start selioned and the other end to the coil then using a seccond piece of wire jump it across the to main terminals on the selione to start the engine this will then start the engine.



hope this helps