replacement pre-cat exhaust?
Discussion
For the last couple of weeks I've been increasingly convinced that my exhaust has been blowing. Yesterday I held an interesting investigation using a twig with a leaf on dangled around the passenger side manifold lookingfor evidence of blowing. I found it - a "tack weld" between two primaries had a crack around it. After much p*ssing about today I've sorted this out but alas I think there's a more major one since the blowing sound has only been reduced a fraction. Anyway, it's got me wondering...
Can anyone recommend a manufacturer of replacement manifolds and Y piece and system? I'm guessing that there's more trouble lurking here - it might be better to just replace the whole lot. Are stainless versions more durable?
JP exhausts make them I think, are they a good fit?
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Cheers, Neil
Can anyone recommend a manufacturer of replacement manifolds and Y piece and system? I'm guessing that there's more trouble lurking here - it might be better to just replace the whole lot. Are stainless versions more durable?
JP exhausts make them I think, are they a good fit?
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Cheers, Neil
JP's system is the one to go for IMHO - available from Tim at ACT or direct from JP exhausts in Macclesfield (Trick's the guy who makes them there - very helpful)
Mine did take quite a bit of messing around with originally - resiting the swirl tank and moving coolant pipework around - but that was because I was one of the first people to try them on a 500. There were no fitting problems with the precats.
I showed photos of my fit problems to Trick and Tim, so that they could warn any other 500 owners. They were very grateful as they weren't aware of the problem and, subsequently, redesigned the system to eliminate the issues.
They fit perfectly and look, and sound, superb....
mack
Mine did take quite a bit of messing around with originally - resiting the swirl tank and moving coolant pipework around - but that was because I was one of the first people to try them on a 500. There were no fitting problems with the precats.
I showed photos of my fit problems to Trick and Tim, so that they could warn any other 500 owners. They were very grateful as they weren't aware of the problem and, subsequently, redesigned the system to eliminate the issues.
They fit perfectly and look, and sound, superb....
mack
I got a pair of replacement Stainless manifolds which were supposed to be either JP or ACT, but I very much doubt they actually were and so did Tim at ACT. Although they looked just right I had a real mare fitting the damned things.
They look exactly like the picture Mack has posted (I think) and the problem turned out to be the layout of the pipes from manifold to flange.
Anyone who's been on here a while will no doubt remember the thread where I posted up how I had to cut the near side inner wing and re-glass in an indentation so the manifold wouldn't rub it as the engine rocked under load.
Sadly it looks like this thread has been purged
The moral? Talk to ACT or double check that whatever you buy is exactly the same layout as the manifold you currently have. Or the simple satisfying task of replacing the crap manifold with a shiny new one could quickly become a nightmare.
They look exactly like the picture Mack has posted (I think) and the problem turned out to be the layout of the pipes from manifold to flange.
Anyone who's been on here a while will no doubt remember the thread where I posted up how I had to cut the near side inner wing and re-glass in an indentation so the manifold wouldn't rub it as the engine rocked under load.
Sadly it looks like this thread has been purged
The moral? Talk to ACT or double check that whatever you buy is exactly the same layout as the manifold you currently have. Or the simple satisfying task of replacing the crap manifold with a shiny new one could quickly become a nightmare.
Thanks, I've dealt a bit with JP in the past as they supplied me with flanges and bends as I fabricated the lot on my Griff 200 although the body's off so access is massively easier than on my Griff 400.
Just how difficult are they to get off and new ones on? Some of the bolts look almost impossible to get to. Do you think I could swap them out in a day? I'm trying to keep using the 400 rather than just let it sit all winter.
Cheers,
Neil
Just how difficult are they to get off and new ones on? Some of the bolts look almost impossible to get to. Do you think I could swap them out in a day? I'm trying to keep using the 400 rather than just let it sit all winter.
Cheers,
Neil
kabaman said:
Thanks, I've dealt a bit with JP in the past as they supplied me with flanges and bends as I fabricated the lot on my Griff 200 although the body's off so access is massively easier than on my Griff 400.
Just how difficult are they to get off and new ones on? Some of the bolts look almost impossible to get to. Do you think I could swap them out in a day? I'm trying to keep using the 400 rather than just let it sit all winter.
Cheers,
Neil
Easily swap them in a day, first time I did mine, I took just over an hour O/S and just under N/S.Just how difficult are they to get off and new ones on? Some of the bolts look almost impossible to get to. Do you think I could swap them out in a day? I'm trying to keep using the 400 rather than just let it sit all winter.
Cheers,
Neil
Also, I got all the bolts from above,it all depends on your hands and spanners available.
One point to remember the bottom rear pin is a capscrew so you need a piece of allen key cut to about 30mm IIRC and then use a spanner on it. Think it is 5/16..
Barreti said:
Anyone who's been on here a while will no doubt remember the thread where I posted up how I had to cut the near side inner wing and re-glass in an indentation so the manifold wouldn't rub it as the engine rocked under load.
Sadly it looks like this thread has been purged
.
Sadly it looks like this thread has been purged
.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
BB
I just looked in your forums tab in your profile and found it 
The search function doesn't work very well( not sure it all ways looks upto 2 years back) and PH techies are more than aware of it and have been working on a fix for a while now...not sure when its going to be done though but yes i would open a thread in website feedback to make them aware of it.
Another way is to use google advanced
to search this website for the words?
BB
The search function doesn't work very well( not sure it all ways looks upto 2 years back) and PH techies are more than aware of it and have been working on a fix for a while now...not sure when its going to be done though but yes i would open a thread in website feedback to make them aware of it.
Another way is to use google advanced
to search this website for the words?BB
Barreti said:
I got a pair of replacement Stainless manifolds which were supposed to be either JP or ACT, but I very much doubt they actually were and so did Tim at ACT. Although they looked just right I had a real mare fitting the damned things.
They look exactly like the picture Mack has posted (I think) and the problem turned out to be the layout of the pipes from manifold to flange.
Anyone who's been on here a while will no doubt remember the thread where I posted up how I had to cut the near side inner wing and re-glass in an indentation so the manifold wouldn't rub it as the engine rocked under load.
And a darn fine job you made of it. Saw it a the Growl this year - unless you pointed it out no-one would ever know. They look exactly like the picture Mack has posted (I think) and the problem turned out to be the layout of the pipes from manifold to flange.
Anyone who's been on here a while will no doubt remember the thread where I posted up how I had to cut the near side inner wing and re-glass in an indentation so the manifold wouldn't rub it as the engine rocked under load.
AntonyJ said:
One point to remember the bottom rear pin is a capscrew so you need a piece of allen key cut to about 30mm IIRC and then use a spanner on it. Think it is 5/16..
That was most useful - two problems found - first was a crack in the primary on cylinder 3 - now repaired. After removal of spark plug leads one by one I tracked the remaining problem down to the rear cylinder passenger side -> the problem was that the rear bolt (lower) was a hex head not allen bolt which I couldn't get a spanner on but could undo with my fingers! In the interim (whilst I wait for an allen bolt to arrive) I used a longer bolt with a nut welded on it so that it protrudes about 1.5 when tight" - that allowed my to do it up and - it's now useable in the interim - thanks a lot, if it wasn't for your post I would have persevered trying to get a spanner on that rear lower bolt which I think is impossible.Additionally, I spoke to Tim at ACT and I very much liked the idea of the "performance" headers they make with sensible secondaries rather than the original design. As soon as I get the next crack I'm going to cough up for a pair ;-)
kabaman said:
AntonyJ said:
One point to remember the bottom rear pin is a capscrew so you need a piece of allen key cut to about 30mm IIRC and then use a spanner on it. Think it is 5/16..
That was most useful - two problems found - first was a crack in the primary on cylinder 3 - now repaired. After removal of spark plug leads one by one I tracked the remaining problem down to the rear cylinder passenger side -> the problem was that the rear bolt (lower) was a hex head not allen bolt which I couldn't get a spanner on but could undo with my fingers! In the interim (whilst I wait for an allen bolt to arrive) I used a longer bolt with a nut welded on it so that it protrudes about 1.5 when tight" - that allowed my to do it up and - it's now useable in the interim - thanks a lot, if it wasn't for your post I would have persevered trying to get a spanner on that rear lower bolt which I think is impossible.Additionally, I spoke to Tim at ACT and I very much liked the idea of the "performance" headers they make with sensible secondaries rather than the original design. As soon as I get the next crack I'm going to cough up for a pair ;-)
I'm refering to these but mine would be the de-catted version: http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_p...
kabaman said:
I'm refering to these but mine would be the de-catted version: http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_p...
These IMHO are good, however, the ones from V8enhancements are the dogs danglies. In fact TCS are fitting Clive's manifolds to my car at the moment. Will be interesting to see it go on the rollers.Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff