Glowing Hot !!
Discussion
Hi there . new air mass meter (£45:00 fleabay) worked a treat, little or no hesitation now and not so much shunting so ta for the advice on that one. However , on the way home tonight more shunting and it didn't seem quite so happy ., bit of a missfire maybe. Checked under the bonnet in the dark , no Blackpool illuminations which frankly I expected but noticed that my number three exhaust pipe was glowing from the head about three inches along and that none of the other seven were the same Does that mean unburnt fuel burning in the pipe , should I be looking at the plug maybe or lead?
Nick...........
Nick...........
f@-pots said:
Hi there . new air mass meter (£45:00 fleabay) worked a treat, little or no hesitation now and not so much shunting so ta for the advice on that one. However , on the way home tonight more shunting and it didn't seem quite so happy ., bit of a missfire maybe. Checked under the bonnet in the dark , no Blackpool illuminations which frankly I expected but noticed that my number three exhaust pipe was glowing from the head about three inches along and that none of the other seven were the same Does that mean unburnt fuel burning in the pipe , should I be looking at the plug maybe or lead?
Nick...........
Sme place where i got mine from?Nick...........
Well its not dissapeared totally mate,but the improvement (I reckon) fits in with what 'blitz' said about the ECU fighting with parameters set too far apart. Now we've moved the AFM a bit nearer to a tolerable level the next step is to dial in the throttle pot, check the timing and check the lambda readings in attempt to bring all of them within a range that the ECU can cope with, I've already broken a lifetime phobia of anything electrical and tried to get readings from the throttle pot and AFM but couldn't ,only to find that the multimeter wot I had purchased from a reputable boutique had in fact expired !! So , not to be beaten I'm going to get a 'goodun' from work and give it another go at the weekend. WISH ME LUCK........................
Nick................
Nick................
f@-pots said:
Well its not dissapeared totally mate,but the improvement (I reckon) fits in with what 'blitz' said about the ECU fighting with parameters set too far apart. Now we've moved the AFM a bit nearer to a tolerable level the next step is to dial in the throttle pot, check the timing and check the lambda readings in attempt to bring all of them within a range that the ECU can cope with, I've already broken a lifetime phobia of anything electrical and tried to get readings from the throttle pot and AFM but couldn't ,only to find that the multimeter wot I had purchased from a reputable boutique had in fact expired !! So , not to be beaten I'm going to get a 'goodun' from work and give it another go at the weekend. WISH ME LUCK........................
Nick................
If you read blitz posts it makes no difference adjusting the TP & AFM the ECU alters accordingly.Nick................
Unless i have read them wrong.
I just bolted my AFM on and made no adjustments.
TP next on the list to replace rightly or wrongly.
Good Luck nick.
Id agree with Daz to an extent, altering the fuel pressure a couple of PSI either way will alter the amount of correction the ECU has to apply, but you need to make sure the full load lambda readings are at least .7 volts to make sure the engines not running lean if you are experimenting. Unfortunately I’ve not yet come across a shunting car with a variable pressure regulator to do some definitive tests to see if the shunting can be eliminated this way. A simple test to see if the problem is fuel or correction related, is to switch the tune resistor to a 400 ohm one to bring the non cat map into play. Then set the AFM trim value at tick over whilst measuring the lambda outputs with the engine hot. At some point the voltage will suddenly swing either to about .2 or .7 volts when you hit the best fuelling point. The point of change is the important bit, nothing more. Once this is set, take the car for a low speed test run. At this point all the ECU fuelling correction system is turned off, so no correction cycling takes place. If the car still snatches its likely to be slack in the drive train or possibly ignition, not fuel/ ECU / AFM etc. Don’t do high speed tests or leave it like this, or you may damage the cat's. Ive recently found out the 5 ltr engines have at least 2 different cat' fuel maps fitted, and one shunts much more.
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