ARP Bolts and Studs
Discussion
Hi Everyone,
I need some help in finding part numbers for ARP gear, is there anyone on here who can help?
I need the ARP part numbers for:-
Head Bolt Set
Exhaust / Inlet Stud Set
Thermostat House Set
Conrod Bolt Set
Mains Set
Flywheel Set
If anyone knows where i can get the part numbers, i should be able to source the bits REALLY cheap direct from the USA.
Many thanks
Mike
I need some help in finding part numbers for ARP gear, is there anyone on here who can help?
I need the ARP part numbers for:-
Head Bolt Set
Exhaust / Inlet Stud Set
Thermostat House Set
Conrod Bolt Set
Mains Set
Flywheel Set
If anyone knows where i can get the part numbers, i should be able to source the bits REALLY cheap direct from the USA.
Many thanks
Mike
I don't want to stop you from putting together the best engine you can, nor from you asking questions about your build, but why do you think you need all these expensive fasterners ?? Are you intending to use a massive revs, or monster compression/forced induction ??
All these things are going to add to your build cost and if money is no object then fair enough, but there are other more reasonable alternatives available, especially if you are not going to push the motor right to the ragged edge. For example MiniSpares do some good "uprate" bolt sets which are not as expensive as APR (exchange rate willing of course !!), and in most cases even just replacing bolts with new standard stuff will surfice.
Just thinking out loud really.
Phil.
Edited to add : If you want to get some uprated bolts then conrods are a good idea if you are planning to rev hard all the time, Main bolts should be replaced, and if you are fitting a center main strap check that the longer bolts supplied are to the same or better grade than the standard bolts. Head studs are a good idea if high compression, high boost or just for piece of mind with a large over-bore such as 73/73.5/74mm etc are in use, same with 11 studs really. Don't forget the extra two studs are thinner and only go down to 20 ftlb (from memory!!). Flywheel bolts again I'd replace with new standard ones, but various sources report the quality of so-called OEM equivalent parts isn't great...... so if you can get them cheap......
As for Thermo and manifold studs/bolts, well that's just jewlery !!
All these things are going to add to your build cost and if money is no object then fair enough, but there are other more reasonable alternatives available, especially if you are not going to push the motor right to the ragged edge. For example MiniSpares do some good "uprate" bolt sets which are not as expensive as APR (exchange rate willing of course !!), and in most cases even just replacing bolts with new standard stuff will surfice.
Just thinking out loud really.
Phil.
Edited to add : If you want to get some uprated bolts then conrods are a good idea if you are planning to rev hard all the time, Main bolts should be replaced, and if you are fitting a center main strap check that the longer bolts supplied are to the same or better grade than the standard bolts. Head studs are a good idea if high compression, high boost or just for piece of mind with a large over-bore such as 73/73.5/74mm etc are in use, same with 11 studs really. Don't forget the extra two studs are thinner and only go down to 20 ftlb (from memory!!). Flywheel bolts again I'd replace with new standard ones, but various sources report the quality of so-called OEM equivalent parts isn't great...... so if you can get them cheap......
As for Thermo and manifold studs/bolts, well that's just jewlery !!
Edited by Phil Hill on Tuesday 9th December 11:22
Ah... Thanks for the information.
To be completely honest, im more of a low down grunt type of driver. Realistically i would be only be taking it to 6500rpm on rare occasions i reckon.
I would have thought that given the spec of the engine i had (1380, weber45, proposed nitrous, BVH etc) that the ARP gear would be essential.
Is this not the case? I'd hate to spend a load of dosh building an engine to find it going BOOM for the want of some decent fasteners!
Mike
To be completely honest, im more of a low down grunt type of driver. Realistically i would be only be taking it to 6500rpm on rare occasions i reckon.
I would have thought that given the spec of the engine i had (1380, weber45, proposed nitrous, BVH etc) that the ARP gear would be essential.
Is this not the case? I'd hate to spend a load of dosh building an engine to find it going BOOM for the want of some decent fasteners!
Mike
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