Water/Methanol Injection
Discussion
Being a year round driver in the cerb i have really noticed the difference in power due to the very cold temperatures we have being having. Has anybody tried an Aquamist kit or similar in an attempt to reduce the intake temperature and thus keep this extra power all year?
I only ask as i have an Aquamist Race setup sitting in a box unused in the garage waiting to be installed on the project car, but maybe it could be more beneficial to the cerbera?
I only ask as i have an Aquamist Race setup sitting in a box unused in the garage waiting to be installed on the project car, but maybe it could be more beneficial to the cerbera?
I doubt it.
Water injection can work well on big boost turbo applications because it makes a relatively large impact on the very high temps involved (water mostly requires a state change to effect a big impact on temperatures), and because the much higher boost that it allows overcomes the surpressive effects of having water in the mix.
Methanol injection is an even better version for turbo cars as it effectively raised the octane of the fuel too, and has a much smaller surpessive effect. However, in an n/a car, given that you'd have to back of the fuelling to compensate for the extra "fuel", you're effectively just moving one of the injectors further down the inlet tract (and giving yourself an airbox full of potentially explosive gas into the bargain).
Water injection can work well on big boost turbo applications because it makes a relatively large impact on the very high temps involved (water mostly requires a state change to effect a big impact on temperatures), and because the much higher boost that it allows overcomes the surpressive effects of having water in the mix.
Methanol injection is an even better version for turbo cars as it effectively raised the octane of the fuel too, and has a much smaller surpessive effect. However, in an n/a car, given that you'd have to back of the fuelling to compensate for the extra "fuel", you're effectively just moving one of the injectors further down the inlet tract (and giving yourself an airbox full of potentially explosive gas into the bargain).
Given that you don't have the elevated charge temperatures to evaporate the water, I guess the main effects are likely to be inside the chamber. By suppressing knock it may be possible to advance the ignition timing a little. If the engine is knock limited that could liberate more power. Unfortunately the engine would then potentially blow itself to bits if the WI failed or ran out of water.
A very interesting and worthwhile explorotary point.
My car drives so much better when the air is cold and damp and feels much crisper and livelier on the throttle.
We must be missing a trick here?
Surely it's in someone's interests to start tinkering with cold damp air as a standard fit - anythings's possible with these clever sorts of people.
MB
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