Rope Trick Suggestions

[Chassis 33]

Right, no, this isn't a follow on from my infamous Snake Oil thread, I need to change the valve seals on a engine (Toyota 7M-GE) and really dont want to do a full head off job so want to attempt the rope trick. Question is which rope? I'm guessing the blue nylon stuff isnt suitable, it might flake off to much so what about say a short length of the braided stuff similar to climbing rope? Also what size have folks used, just small enough to fit through the plug hole or significantly smaller?

Regards
Iain

[stevieturbo]

anything that fits and can fill the void will do fine.

[rev-erend]

stevieturbo said:

anything that fits and can fill the void will do fine.

What he said.. and with a cold engine..

[Marf]

rope trick?

[GreenV8S]

I use the blue nylon stuff. I can't remember how thick it is but it needs to be pretty thin (around half the diameter of the plug hole) to stop it jamming. Obviously have the piston down the bottom to make it easier to get the rope in, you will very quickly learn how much it takes to jam up solid just before tdc.

[Graham]

Fairly sure we used the blue nylon stuff when we had to change the valve colletts on the Tas at Rockingham.

dont forget you'll need to make something to compress the spring, or butcher an normal spring compresser.. as you obviously cant clamp it to the underside of the head

G

[Chassis 33]

Cheers folks.

Marf said:

rope trick?

The rope trick is a way of stopping the valves falling into the combustion chamber, while cushioning them to prevent damage, so that you can do jobs like stem seals "in situ", another way is to pump compressed air into the cylinder via the plug hole.

I've a tool that might do the job of compressing the spring, think I made it for a K series heada while back.
Regards
Iain

Edited by Chassis 33 on Friday 19th December 15:19

[GreenV8S]

I've got a handy little valve spring compressor that hooks into the spring so you can do this sort of thing in situ. They're easy to find and not expensive.

[Yuxi]

I used to use an old electric lawn mower blade to compress the spring, I found that the hole in it was just the right size to compress the spring but allow access to the retainer and collets. Using it was a 2 man job, one standing on the blade with a foot either side of the hole and one taking out/replacing the collets and retainer.

[dern]

I used thin braided rope like climbing rope, shoved as move in as would go without forcing it and then very gently compressed it a bit with the piston. I then used a sealey vs160 compressor like this...



This was on an 8v 944 lux by the way.

Regards,

Mark

[//j17]

Yuxi said:

I used to use an old electric lawn mower blade to compress the spring, I found that the hole in it was just the right size to compress the spring but allow access to the retainer and collets. Using it was a 2 man job, one standing on the blade with a foot either side of the hole and one taking out/replacing the collets and retainer.

So you take something with sharp cutting edges, compress a spring with it, then put your fingers in teh same area Not sure I'd go for this option if it was me - could get rather messy if the person compressing the spring slips!

[spend]

//j17 said:

Yuxi said:

I used to use an old electric lawn mower blade to compress the spring, I found that the hole in it was just the right size to compress the spring but allow access to the retainer and collets. Using it was a 2 man job, one standing on the blade with a foot either side of the hole and one taking out/replacing the collets and retainer.

So you take something with sharp cutting edges, compress a spring with it, then put your fingers in teh same area Not sure I'd go for this option if it was me - could get rather messy if the person compressing the spring slips!

You could have at least given us tips on how you manage to keep your lawnmower blade sharp after titillating us with that information