Best Place to pick up a 5 amp feed from ignition.
Discussion
One for the autosparks here:
I need a 5 amp fused feed to my widebands off the ignition. I've had a look at the fuse box, but auto electrics is not my forte. There are a couple of spare fuse ways but I don't have a clue what to do, "short" of coughing up at my local autosparks?
I would have thought it easy enough, but how?
I need a 5 amp fused feed to my widebands off the ignition. I've had a look at the fuse box, but auto electrics is not my forte. There are a couple of spare fuse ways but I don't have a clue what to do, "short" of coughing up at my local autosparks?
I would have thought it easy enough, but how?
In most cars the switched +12v is *usually* (but not always - worth double checking in service manual or using a current tester) a large single green wire.
This should be available in most places around the car (but noticably behind the radio and steering wheel ignition).
Don't use scotchblocks to join wires. If your not keen on soldering then these products from posi are simply fantastic.
www.performancemotorcare.com/acatalog/Posi_Products.html
the Posi-tap allows you to add a feed without cutting or soldering but the joining mechanism is very very string and won't weaken or possibly cut the cable like a scotchblock.
I would say that it would be better to tap the 15amp switched ignition wire and then fit a 5amp inline fue on your new branch. This way if something goes wrong with the sensor then it'll just disable itself. If you tap an existing 5amp feed then the extra load of the sensor may cause problems.
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This should be available in most places around the car (but noticably behind the radio and steering wheel ignition).
Don't use scotchblocks to join wires. If your not keen on soldering then these products from posi are simply fantastic.
www.performancemotorcare.com/acatalog/Posi_Products.html
the Posi-tap allows you to add a feed without cutting or soldering but the joining mechanism is very very string and won't weaken or possibly cut the cable like a scotchblock.
I would say that it would be better to tap the 15amp switched ignition wire and then fit a 5amp inline fue on your new branch. This way if something goes wrong with the sensor then it'll just disable itself. If you tap an existing 5amp feed then the extra load of the sensor may cause problems.
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www.monkfishperformance.co.uk/extracircuitfuseholder.html
I used one of these for my scan gauges - no need to cut or join any wires
I used one of these for my scan gauges - no need to cut or join any wires
The under-dash fusebox has a couple of spare slots you could take a feed off. A multimeter should identify which are running off switched supply. Otherwise you could use the fuse-tap, mentioned above.
With the engine bay fusebox you can tap into the Auto-Trans fuse which is switched.
At least with using fuse sockets your not cutting into the wiring loom.
Depends where your mounting your wideband controller.
With the engine bay fusebox you can tap into the Auto-Trans fuse which is switched.
At least with using fuse sockets your not cutting into the wiring loom.
Depends where your mounting your wideband controller.
The controllers are under the car between the chassis rail and the foil heat screen, so quite safe and dry. The feed cables have been run along the chassis, drivers side and into the engine bay. I am using the serial cables for digital connection to the flashscan unit, and these are being fed in around the trans tunnel. Hoping to have it finished tomorrow. This information is just the job. Thanks guys, I think that solves everything.
Ads, thanks I can solder and my kit includes a Fluke multimeter but those connectors do look fantastic, especially the in line fuse.
Ads, thanks I can solder and my kit includes a Fluke multimeter but those connectors do look fantastic, especially the in line fuse.
Edited by MyM8V8 on Friday 19th December 17:17
Did you replace the narrow bands? If so I used to run mine from the old wiring loom for those. On our older models this worked ok but I believe the LS2 guys had issues with this (stand to be corrected). Another good source is the cigarette lighter socket which, from memory, is where Monkfish connect to (again from memory)
eta I have some spare O2 loom connectors, they are just empty sockets that need faricating (soldering wires) etc if I have 4 (leaving me 2 spare) and yours are the same shape more than welcome to grab them. I had to pay 20 quid (minmum order) and they come with all pins and plugs) - think I got them from Cotech. The shape I have are the flat 4 pins not the square 4 pins found on later cars.
eta I have some spare O2 loom connectors, they are just empty sockets that need faricating (soldering wires) etc if I have 4 (leaving me 2 spare) and yours are the same shape more than welcome to grab them. I had to pay 20 quid (minmum order) and they come with all pins and plugs) - think I got them from Cotech. The shape I have are the flat 4 pins not the square 4 pins found on later cars.
Edited by stigmundfreud on Friday 19th December 22:34
stigmundfreud said:
Did you replace the narrow bands? If so I used to run mine from the old wiring loom for those. On our older models this worked ok but I believe the LS2 guys had issues with this (stand to be corrected). Another good source is the cigarette lighter socket which, from memory, is where Monkfish connect to (again from memory)
eta I have some spare O2 loom connectors, they are just empty sockets that need faricating (soldering wires) etc if I have 4 (leaving me 2 spare) and yours are the same shape more than welcome to grab them. I had to pay 20 quid (minmum order) and they come with all pins and plugs) - think I got them from Cotech. The shape I have are the flat 4 pins not the square 4 pins found on later cars.
I have LS2, I permantly replaced the NB's and run open loop speed density with MAF removed. I used the NB wiring socket for switched +, pseudo NB and wired all (-) individually to the battery. eta I have some spare O2 loom connectors, they are just empty sockets that need faricating (soldering wires) etc if I have 4 (leaving me 2 spare) and yours are the same shape more than welcome to grab them. I had to pay 20 quid (minmum order) and they come with all pins and plugs) - think I got them from Cotech. The shape I have are the flat 4 pins not the square 4 pins found on later cars.
Edited by stigmundfreud on Friday 19th December 22:34
Note, no need to worry about negative offset with serial WB now!
I had a potential issue with my switched + tripping off, so I rewired direct to battery with switch in the cabin. The problem persists!!!!! The Sensors are overheating in the NB location on the LS2. I did not fit the cooling fins, on my to do list. Problem is easily resolved by switching sensors off for 30 secs and back on again. These problamatic area are easily filtered from data logs.
thats odd then Gelf (good to see you back!) Have to say the serial connections bloody miles better, no need to worry about the fiddly connectors!! Where did you end up routing your conroller? Mine was under the gearbox/ash tray which worked well and kept things dry but the issue then was if you needed to route through the gromit it was a pain in the arse
I've gone back to CL now but with LTFT disabled, was running semi-ol but on the factory O/S it seemed hit and miss (sorry Rich had not got around to COS3 yet!)
I've gone back to CL now but with LTFT disabled, was running semi-ol but on the factory O/S it seemed hit and miss (sorry Rich had not got around to COS3 yet!)
NB's are left in situ Stig, I've installed WB's further down the pipework to run independantly. Obviously using serial cable and daisy chaining the second bank in, which means in my install I only need to run the small serial cable into the cab to pick up the V2. (More cables needed if I want a stand alone AFR gauge)
Where did you guys run your cables into the cab, are you logging 1 bank or two?.
Gelf have you got your parts ordered yet? I'm still in a quandry!!!
Where did you guys run your cables into the cab, are you logging 1 bank or two?.
Gelf have you got your parts ordered yet? I'm still in a quandry!!!
I logged on bank one, I ran the sensor loom into the drivers footwell through the spare gromit just in front of the gearbox. This meant the main controller box was under the ashtray and only needed to connect to the sensor plug. Power was fed from the original o2 sensor but as you are keeping those you might look at the monkfish extra fuse holder and draw from the cigarette lighter. As you are using the serial input you might look at simply running a fixed earth back to battery as your signal will come direct from the controller rather than using the ecu -ve.
My method would prove tight I think if you run from bank 2 as well. Are you pre or post cat?
My method would prove tight I think if you run from bank 2 as well. Are you pre or post cat?
MyM8V8 said:
NB's are left in situ Stig, I've installed WB's further down the pipework to run independantly. Obviously using serial cable and daisy chaining the second bank in, which means in my install I only need to run the small serial cable into the cab to pick up the V2. (More cables needed if I want a stand alone AFR gauge)
Where did you guys run your cables into the cab, are you logging 1 bank or two?.
Gelf have you got your parts ordered yet? I'm still in a quandry!!!
I'm speaking with Peter to source all parts, it seems pointless importing a combo just to junk many of the unwanted parts, I was thinking i'll get all the kit first and install after my MOT in April / May when the weathers nicer too. Its been a long time, but I have rebuild a couple of engines in my youth, so I should be able to manage the cam and head swap.Where did you guys run your cables into the cab, are you logging 1 bank or two?.
Gelf have you got your parts ordered yet? I'm still in a quandry!!!
My LC-1's are on the bulk head, and the cables run through a spare grommet also in the bulk head on the passenger side.
stigmundfreud said:
I logged on bank one, I ran the sensor loom into the drivers footwell through the spare gromit just in front of the gearbox. This meant the main controller box was under the ashtray and only needed to connect to the sensor plug. Power was fed from the original o2 sensor but as you are keeping those you might look at the monkfish extra fuse holder and draw from the cigarette lighter. As you are using the serial input you might look at simply running a fixed earth back to battery as your signal will come direct from the controller rather than using the ecu -ve.
My method would prove tight I think if you run from bank 2 as well. Are you pre or post cat?
Post, "cat?". My method would prove tight I think if you run from bank 2 as well. Are you pre or post cat?
Do you think I would have any kind of problem with -where- I have put the controllers; tie wrapped to the brake pipework under the drivers side chassis member, tucked under the heat shield.
I'm still looking for a suitable gromit to get in? (must get new glasses).
Gelf. Got your options .ini thanks. Be in touch when you get back.
MadMaxHSV said:
Surely your not going to get a true AFR reading after the cat...?
if you get enough gas flow its accurate enough but I went pre-cat. Also possible issues with the sensors not getting warm enough. Look at where MOT and Dyno pick up AFR, admittedly their sensors cost 10k +MyM8V8 said:
stigmundfreud said:
MadMaxHSV said:
Surely your not going to get a true AFR reading after the cat...?
Also possible issues with the sensors not getting warm enough. Stig. Have you felt how hot they get under their own power? I have -Ouch- b
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