V8 Wheel Track Width
V8 Wheel Track Width
Author
Discussion

clarenceboddiger

Original Poster:

1,398 posts

245 months

Sunday 28th December 2008
quotequote all
In the following thread

http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...

it is apparent that the V8 has a 42mm wider track at the rear, as I am converting an S2 to V8 I would like to improve the Chassis strength and other specs to match the V8 wherever possible. So I am wondering if I can simply get some spacers made (to same shape and bore size etc as the block welded onto the trailing arms) cut at 21mm thick and bolt,weld them to the existing arms (Mint condition) to mirror the V8 arms,

Can anyone think why this wouldn't work, also is the V8 body width at the rear arches the same as the V6 ?
Front arms would have to be fabricated wider as well presumably so again is the V8 bonnet width the same at the arches??
Lots of questions I know but hey that's why we come on here.

Added: all the welding work on the Suspension parts will done by a coded welder, I can weld but some things are best left to the experts.

Edited by clarenceboddiger on Sunday 28th December 10:30


Edited by clarenceboddiger on Sunday 28th December 10:31

tozerman

1,340 posts

257 months

Sunday 28th December 2008
quotequote all
clarenceboddiger said:
it is apparent that the V8 has a 42mm wider track at the rear, as I am converting an S2 to V8 I would like to improve the Chassis strength and other specs to match the V8 wherever possible. So I am wondering if I can simply get some spacers made (to same shape and bore size etc as the block welded onto the trailing arms) cut at 21mm thick and bolt,weld them to the existing arms (Mint condition) to mirror the V8 arms,
Ken, if I have read your thread right then wouln't your drive shafts be too short ? and also wouldn't you then also need a longer hand brake cable and also a longer brake pipe that runs along the top of the bottom arms ?
Cheers.....Tony..

GreenV8S

31,018 posts

314 months

Sunday 28th December 2008
quotequote all
I haven't put them side by side to compare, but I thought the difference was in the hubs.

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Sunday 28th December 2008
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
I haven't put them side by side to compare, but I thought the difference was in the hubs.
Pete its definately a different trailing arm, and at the front different longer wishbones.

V8S Trailing arm


V6 Later Trailing Arm




Edited by Barkychoc on Sunday 28th December 18:08

clarenceboddiger

Original Poster:

1,398 posts

245 months

Monday 29th December 2008
quotequote all
tozerman said:
clarenceboddiger said:
it is apparent that the V8 has a 42mm wider track at the rear, as I am converting an S2 to V8 I would like to improve the Chassis strength and other specs to match the V8 wherever possible. So I am wondering if I can simply get some spacers made (to same shape and bore size etc as the block welded onto the trailing arms) cut at 21mm thick and bolt,weld them to the existing arms (Mint condition) to mirror the V8 arms,
Ken, if I have read your thread right then wouln't your drive shafts be too short ? and also wouldn't you then also need a longer hand brake cable and also a longer brake pipe that runs along the top of the bottom arms ?
Cheers.....Tony..
Tony (Like minds)I asked that question the other week re the original thread and apparently there is enough linear movement on them to cope, re brakes , i have acquire all the bits to convert to Disc Brakes so all pipes will be new, thanks for the reminder though.

Edited by clarenceboddiger on Monday 29th December 09:18


Edited by clarenceboddiger on Monday 29th December 09:19

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Monday 29th December 2008
quotequote all
Ken I have been thinking back to when I put my car back together and I don't think making that flange thicker will work. The driveshaft has a large diameter joint (that you can see in the photo below) before the shaft that passes through the wheel bearing / hub - and I think if you make the flange thicker the driveshaft will foul on the inside of the trailing arm if that makes sense its already pretty close to the trailing arm as it is.

This pic probably doesn't realy help but its the only one I could find.


clarenceboddiger

Original Poster:

1,398 posts

245 months

Monday 29th December 2008
quotequote all
Hi Chris
I follow your logic, but I was thinking that hole gave clearance for the driveshaft to go through??? Maybe Im wrong , if so its a non starter.

ps thats looking fantastic on the pic's, I've gotta get over and see this thing before its back on the road.


Edited by clarenceboddiger on Monday 29th December 13:56

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Monday 29th December 2008
quotequote all
Here's the only pic I can find of the hole where the driveshaft goes through.
(and when I look back at these pics I realise how far the car has come on).

The hub bolts on the end with the 4 bolts and that has the wheel bearings in it.
The hole in the trailing arm only allows that narrower diameter bit on the end of the driveshaft to go fit in.



And here's a driveshaft pic I just nicked off ebay




Edited by Barkychoc on Monday 29th December 14:26

Sweet Thunder

220 posts

251 months

Monday 29th December 2008
quotequote all
Hi Ken,
Sorry, can't help you with the rear suspension. However, if you also want to change the track at the front, remember that you will need the V8S steering rack. V8S rack is 50mm wider IIRC.

Jed-S

660 posts

246 months

Monday 29th December 2008
quotequote all
Why not get some wheels with a different offset to increase the rear track? Fronts are a different matter though so for that I'd be looking for replacement wishbones.

clarenceboddiger

Original Poster:

1,398 posts

245 months

Wednesday 31st December 2008
quotequote all
Jed-S said:
Why not get some wheels with a different offset to increase the rear track?
Sounds like a good idea, would save lots of work.
thanks

aero340

272 posts

242 months

Wednesday 31st December 2008
quotequote all
looking through the classified there is an S FOR SALE with eibach 30mm wheel spacers fitted not quite the 40mm your looking for but may be an option might be worth a call for some info???as for the steering rack i think you could achieve the wider width just changing the trackrods for a longer pair un less you went the power steering route..

Edited by aero340 on Wednesday 31st December 09:57

clarenceboddiger

Original Poster:

1,398 posts

245 months

Wednesday 31st December 2008
quotequote all
Will do, thanks Aero340

GreenV8S

31,018 posts

314 months

Wednesday 31st December 2008
quotequote all
I assume it's 20mm per side.

Wheel spacers are just *bad*, m'kay?

clarenceboddiger

Original Poster:

1,398 posts

245 months

Thursday 1st January 2009
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
I assume it's 20mm per side.

Wheel spacers are just *bad*, m'kay?
Wheel spacers are just *bad*, m'kay?
Why do you say that Pete, is it because of the longer studs required or something more technical? I want to get this right so all advice appreciated.

Sweet Thunder

220 posts

251 months

Thursday 1st January 2009
quotequote all
Wheel spacers on the rear reduce wheel bearing life, as they introduce a (bigger) lever between the forces excerted on the wheel and the bearing. If the spacers are not too wide, the effect will not be disastrous. Spacers on the front however are worse: they also change the steering geometry as the distance between the pivot point and the point where the wheel touches the ground changes. This has a huge effect on the car's behaviour.

wheels1

209 posts

218 months

Friday 2nd January 2009
quotequote all
Barkychoc said:
Ken I have been thinking back to when I put my car back together and I don't think making that flange thicker will work. The driveshaft has a large diameter joint (that you can see in the photo below) before the shaft that passes through the wheel bearing / hub - and I think if you make the flange thicker the driveshaft will foul on the inside of the trailing arm if that makes sense its already pretty close to the trailing arm as it is.

This pic probably doesn't realy help but its the only one I could find.

Looks like a great job you did there from this pic.
Just hope you remembered to do up the bottom Damper bolt?

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Friday 2nd January 2009
quotequote all
It is now tightened up but not the last final tighten - that will be done one the car is at its normal kerbweight & height - i.e. when it has an engine, gearbox and fuel!

mickypee

355 posts

312 months

Saturday 3rd January 2009
quotequote all
clarenceboddiger, YHM

Mike