Heater service notes
Discussion
Just sorted my heater last week. The core was blocked so no heat. I removed heater then core and took to radiator place. They removed the tanks and cleaned the core. Cost $NZ60 (20GBP) to clean, $NZ135 (45GBP) for new core.
Does your heater have the mechanical flaps like the S2?
If so I can give you instructions.
Does your heater have the mechanical flaps like the S2?
If so I can give you instructions.
Ok Brett
HEATER REMOVAL FOR EARLY MECHANICAL FLAP TYPE
This is the steps I took. My car doesn't have Aircon so you may have that to work around. I assume your car is RHD like mine.
- Disconnect the battery, you poke around the fuse box!
- Remove seats for easy access
- Disconnect hoses having a couple of 5/8" rods handy to plug them again ( 1/2" socket set extensions were perfect)
- Gently prise actuating levers from RHS of heater, the two the heater cables go to. Carefully, under the hub of the lever, they break easily if you try to remove the cable. Don't ask how I know
- Detached fuse holders from gove box.
- Remove glove box liner
- Remove demister trumpet (if the screws are rusted this is the hardest part of the job) Use pliers & WD40 on the back if necessary.
- Under bonnet, remove heater cover then the 4 bolts holding the heater
- Gently work heater off mounting
- Slide out heater
- Don't lose rubber washers under afore mentioned 4 bolts. I glued them in place on reassembly
Dismantle heater
- Undo screws holding one side of the heater on
- You also need to drill out some rivets on that end only (leave the other end intact)
- Remove heater core for repair
- Remove rust from box and paint
Reassembly
- Reversal of above
- When reattaching levers put the flaps in the Cold position (top flap down) same on dash actuator, the bottom flap down and the actuator on dash in car heat position (the lower lever is the larger one)
- To apply Levers use an assistant whith a hammer on the end of the flap shaft and tap the lever on with light hammer (Loctite is a good idea)
Good luck
Graeme
HEATER REMOVAL FOR EARLY MECHANICAL FLAP TYPE
This is the steps I took. My car doesn't have Aircon so you may have that to work around. I assume your car is RHD like mine.
- Disconnect the battery, you poke around the fuse box!
- Remove seats for easy access
- Disconnect hoses having a couple of 5/8" rods handy to plug them again ( 1/2" socket set extensions were perfect)
- Gently prise actuating levers from RHS of heater, the two the heater cables go to. Carefully, under the hub of the lever, they break easily if you try to remove the cable. Don't ask how I know
- Detached fuse holders from gove box.
- Remove glove box liner
- Remove demister trumpet (if the screws are rusted this is the hardest part of the job) Use pliers & WD40 on the back if necessary.
- Under bonnet, remove heater cover then the 4 bolts holding the heater
- Gently work heater off mounting
- Slide out heater
- Don't lose rubber washers under afore mentioned 4 bolts. I glued them in place on reassembly
Dismantle heater
- Undo screws holding one side of the heater on
- You also need to drill out some rivets on that end only (leave the other end intact)
- Remove heater core for repair
- Remove rust from box and paint
Reassembly
- Reversal of above
- When reattaching levers put the flaps in the Cold position (top flap down) same on dash actuator, the bottom flap down and the actuator on dash in car heat position (the lower lever is the larger one)
- To apply Levers use an assistant whith a hammer on the end of the flap shaft and tap the lever on with light hammer (Loctite is a good idea)
Good luck
Graeme
I have not heard of too many of the actual flaps or actuators failing.
I would put my best guess on either the vac lines being disconnected or the valves that divert the vac to the flap actuators out of alignment on the cams that the heater knobs controls, another thing I have seen is the vac valves riding up on the saddle bracket that hold the valves if it shifts less than 1/8" you will not have any heat.
It is real easy to tell if the flaps are not working. Set your control knob to pump air to the footwells (should be about the 11 or 10 o'clock position of the right knob. The 2 dash vents closest to the center will cut off and this air is directed to the footwell vents which looks like black 1 or 1.5" plastic hoses.
If this does not occur then check the vac line or the valves, check for disconnected cables going to the cams that adjust the heater. Also if the heater is warm you are getting coolant flow through it. DSo not worry about the outboard left and right dash vents, these will always pump cold air no matter what. Use the thumb wheels to close these off for max heating.
I have a mean feeling that your very small black rigid vac lines are disconnected from either the elbows and T's that feed the vac valves.
Calvin
PS There is a good chance you must assume the Lotus position to solve your heating problem.
I would put my best guess on either the vac lines being disconnected or the valves that divert the vac to the flap actuators out of alignment on the cams that the heater knobs controls, another thing I have seen is the vac valves riding up on the saddle bracket that hold the valves if it shifts less than 1/8" you will not have any heat.
It is real easy to tell if the flaps are not working. Set your control knob to pump air to the footwells (should be about the 11 or 10 o'clock position of the right knob. The 2 dash vents closest to the center will cut off and this air is directed to the footwell vents which looks like black 1 or 1.5" plastic hoses.
If this does not occur then check the vac line or the valves, check for disconnected cables going to the cams that adjust the heater. Also if the heater is warm you are getting coolant flow through it. DSo not worry about the outboard left and right dash vents, these will always pump cold air no matter what. Use the thumb wheels to close these off for max heating.
I have a mean feeling that your very small black rigid vac lines are disconnected from either the elbows and T's that feed the vac valves.
Calvin
PS There is a good chance you must assume the Lotus position to solve your heating problem.
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