Discussion
So chaps, got my suspension, 5 stud conversion and a set of 17 inch 5 stud racelines. However i'm a little worried about clearance on the front wheels. The raceline's i believe are all the same size and offset (they are defo a set of front and rears, the fronts have no rim lip) . For some reason I have 255 tyres all round on them. I'm fairly sure these are going to rub are they not. If i take the fronts down to 235, will I get away with it?
I looked at this on my Griff recently.
You don’t mention rim width, what size did you get?
Watch out for clearance on full lock with the battery box. The battery box size changed on Griff’s. Later cars had a less obstruction in the wheelarch. Some will take bigger tyres; other won’t unless you modify the battery box.
Personally, I would send the front wheels back. To take a 255 they must be between 8.5J and 10J. You only need an 8J to run 235. To get the diameter right you need 35 profile, but Toyo only do a 235/40, which is too large in diameter.
The handling can get worse if you fit tyres that are too wide.
I spent ages looking at all the sizes. In the end 215/40 R17 on 7J rims seem to work best.
Keep the unsprung weight as low as possible by not fitting wider wheels than needed for the tyres you choose.
You don’t mention rim width, what size did you get?
Watch out for clearance on full lock with the battery box. The battery box size changed on Griff’s. Later cars had a less obstruction in the wheelarch. Some will take bigger tyres; other won’t unless you modify the battery box.
Personally, I would send the front wheels back. To take a 255 they must be between 8.5J and 10J. You only need an 8J to run 235. To get the diameter right you need 35 profile, but Toyo only do a 235/40, which is too large in diameter.
The handling can get worse if you fit tyres that are too wide.
I spent ages looking at all the sizes. In the end 215/40 R17 on 7J rims seem to work best.
Keep the unsprung weight as low as possible by not fitting wider wheels than needed for the tyres you choose.
I believe the Racelines are the same offset F & R, but the rears are just wider rims Charley, I toyed with some as an alt to the spiders. I couldn't get Cerb rears on mine they fouled on the upright IIRC, I personally didn't want to use spacers (having said that they were the 'dodgy?' 18" ones though - fool me!).
I'm not sure there is a hard a fast rule for the tyre fouling based on width (assuming 40 profile) as the different tyre brands seem to have different profiles, added to body alignment, camber...? Pretty much a suck it 'n see as what works for one might not for another & vica versa I reckon
I'm not sure there is a hard a fast rule for the tyre fouling based on width (assuming 40 profile) as the different tyre brands seem to have different profiles, added to body alignment, camber...? Pretty much a suck it 'n see as what works for one might not for another & vica versa I reckon
Hi,
I've fitted this combo on SP12 and am very pleased:
front: 235/40-17
rear: 255/35-18
(both falken FK452)
Eta: Fronts rub very very slightly when on full lock and on a hill on the same time.
No rubbing whilst driving.
Tracktime better then on standard 16" rubber. (fr.: 225/45-16, rr.: 245/45-16) and looks the business.
I've fitted this combo on SP12 and am very pleased:
front: 235/40-17
rear: 255/35-18
(both falken FK452)
Eta: Fronts rub very very slightly when on full lock and on a hill on the same time.
No rubbing whilst driving.
Tracktime better then on standard 16" rubber. (fr.: 225/45-16, rr.: 245/45-16) and looks the business.
ive been doing some home work and comparing the wheel and tyre position on the calculator ,i can`t beleive how things change with minor wheel changes .http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp
im going for 17 all round and using the original off set front et 25 and rear 33 ,it throws the off sets out .
front 215/40/17
rear 245/40/17
front 17/7 or 7.5/et 25 moves the inner part 5mm closer to the in side and 5mm out which i think will be ok
rear 17/8 /et33 moves the inner part 10mmm closer to the inside and and 10mm out .this means the outer side will be in line with the lip ,i wonder if it will catch ,
any one got any ideas .may be the et needs to be slightly different front and rear .the rears have plenty of space to go inwards and may be the fronts should be slightly outwards !
im going for 17 all round and using the original off set front et 25 and rear 33 ,it throws the off sets out .
front 215/40/17
rear 245/40/17
front 17/7 or 7.5/et 25 moves the inner part 5mm closer to the in side and 5mm out which i think will be ok
rear 17/8 /et33 moves the inner part 10mmm closer to the inside and and 10mm out .this means the outer side will be in line with the lip ,i wonder if it will catch ,
any one got any ideas .may be the et needs to be slightly different front and rear .the rears have plenty of space to go inwards and may be the fronts should be slightly outwards !
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