Discussion
I am getting a bit twitchy about my chassis not being cleaned/treated since i bought the car in the summer. But i don't know how best to get at the the chassis to start the work? Is it worth buying some ramps so that i can get under the S? Can anyone suggest any? or got any pics of there cars in 'mid chassis clean'?
I use a high lift jack and then slip the ramps underneath as if they were axle stands - this works but you will need a high lift jack to get the clearance.
If you really want confidence in your chassis though I'd suggest a partial body lift - it will take approx 4-5 hours to lift and about 3 hours to replace + whatever work you have to do. This link may help if you decide to go this route.
http://www.gbsportscar.com/PARTIAL%20BODY%20LIFT.h...
Mark
If you really want confidence in your chassis though I'd suggest a partial body lift - it will take approx 4-5 hours to lift and about 3 hours to replace + whatever work you have to do. This link may help if you decide to go this route.
http://www.gbsportscar.com/PARTIAL%20BODY%20LIFT.h...
Mark
Got mine on axle stands at the moment. Got some scaffold boards and cut them into four 2' lengths and put a chamfer on the ends. Placed them under the wheels and drove on giving me an extra 2" to get the jack under and onto stands. Then got the wheels off. Still quite tight in my garage but can crawl under ok.
Lifting the car up is easy - getting motivated to crawl underneath in this cold weather is not.
Lifting the car up is easy - getting motivated to crawl underneath in this cold weather is not.
These work with a Chim. Don't know about an S though.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-RAMPS-Plastic-Extra-Stro...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-RAMPS-Plastic-Extra-Stro...
Edited by wheels1 on Saturday 3rd January 20:20
Two pairs of axle stands and a decent jack or two and plenty of timber in various thicknesses will get you reasonable access to the chassis, but if you are doing a partial lift it doesn't take much more to take the body off which will give much better access and save a lot of time.
I started with a partial lift: -
Then found some rot in both front outriggers so did a full lift. If I had to do it again I wouldn't hessitate to take the body off, easier an quicker and lets you have a good look and clean of the chassis.
Tony
I started with a partial lift: -
Then found some rot in both front outriggers so did a full lift. If I had to do it again I wouldn't hessitate to take the body off, easier an quicker and lets you have a good look and clean of the chassis.
Tony
Back to my reality and a small garage - couldn't fit your launching system Ragtop in but the little wooden blocks are useful to put car on and have bonnet fully open and not grounding on the airscoop (abot 12"x6"x2") but also usefull to get sufficient clearance to get on my ols ramps (a xmas present from my mother some40+ years ago) note they can be raised BUT you do have to be very careful of stability.
Well thanks for all the replys guys, although i'm feeling a bit worried now about tackling the whole job! My garage is SO small, that i can barely fit the S3 in, just open the door to get in, i couldn't imagine taking the body off! In fact, even driving it in onto ramps will be taxing..
I could get my local TVR specialists to do it for me, http://www.dulfordautocouk.moonfruit.com/
Would that be a good idea? I just have a hard time trusting ant garage with my pride & joy..
I could get my local TVR specialists to do it for me, http://www.dulfordautocouk.moonfruit.com/
Would that be a good idea? I just have a hard time trusting ant garage with my pride & joy..
You don't need to take the body off to clean/maintain the majority of the chassis. I usually put mine on the ramps outside to hose it off thoroughly, I have the S with fog lamps in the nose and you need to be careful not to scrape them on the ramps on the way up - putting a plank in front of the ramps to raise the height will help here. Havin gcleaned the chassis thoroughly and scraped off excess/flaky paint I then leave it in the garage for a good week or so before applying new waxoyl/cavity protect. This allows the chassis to dry thoroughly and ensures that moisture is not trapped before rust proofing.
I wouldn't entertain taking the body off unless its necessary to weld/repair. This is experience borne of owning 8 TVRs as a family - none of those have ever had the body off to maintain the chassis (although all were chosen carefully -primarily on the basis of chassis condition after a chastening experience with a Gilbern) but they all have an annual clean/reapplication of waxoyl and are hosed off comprehensively underneath if they are driven in teh rain/get muddy. Prevention is the best cure....
I wouldn't entertain taking the body off unless its necessary to weld/repair. This is experience borne of owning 8 TVRs as a family - none of those have ever had the body off to maintain the chassis (although all were chosen carefully -primarily on the basis of chassis condition after a chastening experience with a Gilbern) but they all have an annual clean/reapplication of waxoyl and are hosed off comprehensively underneath if they are driven in teh rain/get muddy. Prevention is the best cure....
wheels1 said:
My car has only done 18,000 miles and judging by the time it has took me so far, i reckon it will take me around 30hrs work.
So if you multiplied that by garage rates it's scary. If they quote you £300 or £400 i guess they will just be covering up the rust!! Be wary.
I would agree with wheels here the work will be the majority of your time and will be very expensive if you pay someone to do it. When I did mine though you'll see from my website that I started with a partial lit and then converted to a full lift when the extent of corrosion became evident. My garage is also only just big enough to get in and out of the car, so all work is done on the drive. But with a partial body lift you can raise and lower the bodyshell in about 5-10 minutes (once un bolted) and when lowered (but still not bolted down) you can move the car back and forwards (pushing it so drive slope may be an issue) which will let you see what problems you have and allow access for a proper inspection and clean. This allows you to do the work over successive days but still store the car in the garage overnight.So if you multiplied that by garage rates it's scary. If they quote you £300 or £400 i guess they will just be covering up the rust!! Be wary.
Note: steering and handbrake will be disconnected so you need to have someone on the wheels to steer manually and if here is a slope then someone at the front of the car to control speed helps too. My drive has a slope of a couple of degrees on it and it was still achievable.
Mark
PS would love a set of ramps like your Ragtop!!!!
Edited by mep12345 on Sunday 4th January 15:25
http://www.restorationramps.co.uk/
These are very good and reasonable. lots of cutting and welding to make them yourself.
N.
These are very good and reasonable. lots of cutting and welding to make them yourself.
N.
heightswitch said:
http://www.restorationramps.co.uk/
These are very good and reasonable. lots of cutting and welding to make them yourself.
N.
They look great but where do you keep them? plus I could do loads of cutting and welding for £900-1000.These are very good and reasonable. lots of cutting and welding to make them yourself.
N.
You can now buy hydraulic post ramps for £1600 that come with wheels so you can move them around. should have bought one instead of my shiny new wheels.
I once made a 30ft steel bridge in my shed, it only took me, and 3 other people, 2 hours and a JCB to get it out! It was a bit heaver and harder to move than i thought it would be.
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