38DGAS leaking fuel :o(

[duncscz]

Hi,

Was running my 3000S at the weekend, which is currently SORN and noticed a drip (or two) of fuel at the inlet to the carb. Replaced the jubilee clip and checked the fuel pipe (both were ok) but still leaking ... on closer inspection, I find that I can rotate the inlet pipe, which I now assume is the culprit. Question is how is (should) that pipe fixed ? Soldered ? Brazed ? Or just a tight fit ? And how to you access the end inside the carb ? Peering up where the fuel filter is didn't seem to help ?

Any guidance would be most appreciated ...

TIA

Duncan

[heightswitch]

duncscz said:

Hi,

Was running my 3000S at the weekend, which is currently SORN and noticed a drip (or two) of fuel at the inlet to the carb. Replaced the jubilee clip and checked the fuel pipe (both were ok) but still leaking ... on closer inspection, I find that I can rotate the inlet pipe, which I now assume is the culprit. Question is how is (should) that pipe fixed ? Soldered ? Brazed ? Or just a tight fit ? And how to you access the end inside the carb ? Peering up where the fuel filter is didn't seem to help ?

Any guidance would be most appreciated ...

TIA

Duncan

The brass pipe into the gunmetal body is a known weakness of the DGAS and is well known to occasionally fall out. Many a ford capri has been lost to fire in this way. the repair method is to remove the union, clean up with some emery cloth and then re-fit using plastic metal / loctite or similar product to ensure that the pipe then sets in the gun metal housing.

Sometimes the cause is down to expansion because the carb body is in direct contact with the inlet manifold and heat transfers to easily. You must ensure that the bakelite 1/4" thick carb to manifold gasket is in place.

N.

[duncscz]

Great. Thanks Neil ... off out for some loctite. Guess '401' would do the trick ?

[16VJay]

This issue also happened on Scimitars and there was a service fix which involved drilling right through the carb boss and stub pipe and fitting a brass pin to keep the stub pipe in place.

It was standard buying advice when buying Scimitars to check the carb had been pinned, you could see the end of the pin on the top side of the carb boss casting.

[duncscz]

Got the carb top on the bench and both the inlet and return pipes rotate freely .. but how to get them out ? Seems like there is 'collet' (if that's the right word) creating the tight fit ? Anyway, they won't 'drift out easily' as Haynes would say

I've already scratched them with pliers, so assuming I can get them out, they'll probably need replacing ? Where to get some 1/4 brass pipe with flared ends