Getting a hex-head bolt out

[Nefarious]

The suspension dismantlement is in full swing, but I've got a bit stuck on the hex-head bolts top and bottom of the front uprights. They're all in super-tight, and rust has taken its toll on the heads, so the hex bits are just stripping what's left of the sockets.

I've moved onto other jobs rather than bash away are do any more damage, but any bright ideas for getting them out?

I thought about welding a hex bit into each of them, but all my hex bits are non-ferrous (I think?). I could file the thread off a short bolt and weld that in, but I'm not convinced of how much grip a rounded bolt will give.

I could use the dremel and cut a slot in the bolt head for a flat-head bit, but I don't think I can get enough torque on the bolts to move them with a screwdriver, and I'm worried about breaking the heads off entirely.

I can't get a set of moles onto the outside of them because they're too close together and there's a little lip of the upright end-caps which prevents access.

They're all currently soaking in WD40, but any suggestions would be most welcome.

[itiejim]

I've had success in the past by hammering an oversized torx bit in. If that fails then the only other way I've used is to weld a decent bolt on as you have already suggested.

[julian64]

When we were having difficulty getting the hex heads out of the calipers mikes racecar, we effectively turned the hex head into a circle with an airgun.

It was only after we started drilling the head out that we suddenly had the brainwave to weld something onto it.

We welded a a bolt onto the head that was so strong that it bust the orginal hex head in the caliper.

So barring cock-ups like that, I would say welding is the king .

[shpub]

I have also found that brake fluid can work wonders where WD40 has failed.

[Steve_T]

Impact driver?

Nefarious said:

The suspension dismantlement is in full swing, but I've got a bit stuck on the hex-head bolts top and bottom of the front uprights. They're all in super-tight, and rust has taken its toll on the heads, so the hex bits are just stripping what's left of the sockets.

I've moved onto other jobs rather than bash away are do any more damage, but any bright ideas for getting them out?

I thought about welding a hex bit into each of them, but all my hex bits are non-ferrous (I think?). I could file the thread off a short bolt and weld that in, but I'm not convinced of how much grip a rounded bolt will give.

I could use the dremel and cut a slot in the bolt head for a flat-head bit, but I don't think I can get enough torque on the bolts to move them with a screwdriver, and I'm worried about breaking the heads off entirely.

I can't get a set of moles onto the outside of them because they're too close together and there's a little lip of the upright end-caps which prevents access.

They're all currently soaking in WD40, but any suggestions would be most welcome.

[Olly]

Air tool oil is another good lubricant (Marvel is the one I use).

And then take an impact/air powered tool to it. Stating the obvious - air powered tools are rotating, where as hand powered tools are in 1 direction (up/down) so inherently, your more likely to strip a head/bold/hex etc with a hand tool.....

And if all else fails, get your self some of these Link 1 and these Link 2

[Gas Man]

If you have acces to the full head then a stud extractor should move it.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/snap-on-stud-extractor_W0QQi...

Steve

[markh1]

I have the exact same problem at the moment, getting the hex bolts out has halted my suspension strip down. When I get 5 minutes I will try the welding route then the bolt extractor that someone posted a link on ebay to.

The hex bolts are a really crap idea on a part like that imho.

[Billy_rfc]

First thing to do is always give the heads of a cap screws a good battering with a copper mallet to help free the threads, then clean out the head with a wee screwdriver, use it as a chisel if needed to get all the crud out then chap in your hex head(metric but cant remember size).

Now you guys have gubbed the heads so what I would do, give the heads a battering with the mallet again then get some heat onto them(lots of it). As they are cooling down chap in a lager hex(imperial will be the next size up) then give it some. It should come out.

Billy.

[Buffoon]

Not sure on the position of the bolt but general heat followed by freeze spray to the bolt always good.

[Nefarious]

OK, now I've got all the bolts out, the little cap on the bottom of the upright still won't come off. Is it a brute force and ignorance job or is there something clever that I'm missing?

Also, the steering arm to upright connection seems pretty reluctant to move too, despite the nut coming off relatively easily. Same story?

Sorry about all the questions, just want to check before I go whacking things with hammers.

[itsallyellow]

Nefarious said:

OK, now I've got all the bolts out, the little cap on the bottom of the upright still won't come off. Is it a brute force and ignorance job or is there something clever that I'm missing?

Also, the steering arm to upright connection seems pretty reluctant to move too, despite the nut coming off relatively easily. Same story?

Sorry about all the questions, just want to check before I go whacking things with hammers.

You will need a ball joint separator for the steering arm.

That cap dosnt come off. Its part of the ball joint. Take the upright apart via the 4 large hex nuts. Then you need to undo the bolt inside holding the ball joint in.

Mike

[Barkychoc]

Welding a hex head on is helpful - but also use a 6 sided socket so it grips the head well helps, or one of the new clever sockets that grips on the flats not the corners.

[Nefarious]

itsallyellow said:

Nefarious said:

OK, now I've got all the bolts out, the little cap on the bottom of the upright still won't come off. Is it a brute force and ignorance job or is there something clever that I'm missing?

Also, the steering arm to upright connection seems pretty reluctant to move too, despite the nut coming off relatively easily. Same story?

Sorry about all the questions, just want to check before I go whacking things with hammers.

You will need a ball joint separator for the steering arm.

That cap dosnt come off. Its part of the ball joint. Take the upright apart via the 4 large hex nuts. Then you need to undo the bolt inside holding the ball joint in.

Mike

Where is this "bolt inside holding the ball joint in"?? How do I get to it? (I'm probably being very dense)

[julian64]

If you didn't live in the middle of nowhere nef, we'd all be round helping you by now

[Nefarious]

julian64 said:

If you didn't live in the middle of nowhere nef, we'd all be round helping you by now

Middle of nowhere? Middle of nowhere? I'll have you know that Edinburgh is right in the middle of...oh, right, I see what you mean...

[Nefarious]

To make things a bit clearer, its the arrowed bit at the bottom I'm talking about. Can't see for the life of me how to get it out.

[markh1]

I have found that a lot of the alloy parts have 'welded' themselves to the steel parts, might be worth giving it a wack with a mallet??

How did you get the allen bolts out in the end?

[Nefarious]

I've given it a fair old wallop already, and the above diagram seems to suggest there's a thread hiding in there somewhere.

I'll pop out later and have another go with a bit more enthusiasm and a bigger hammer.

markh1 said:

How did you get the allen bolts out in the end?

There were three stuck. I've got two out by knocking in a tight fitting hex and then heating up the bit (I think a night soaking in WD helped somewhat). The third is still stuck, but I don't mind sacrificing a torx bit for one (I'm too tight to ruin three torx bits!)

Edited by Nefarious on Friday 9th January 11:00

Edited by Nefarious on Friday 9th January 11:01

[markh1]

Nefarious said:

I've given it a fair old wallop already, and the above diagram seems to suggest there's a thread hiding in there somewhere.

I'll pop out later and have another go with a bit more enthusiasm and a bigger hammer.

markh1 said:

How did you get the allen bolts out in the end?

There were three stuck. I've got two out by knocking in a tight fitting hex and then heating up the bit (I think a night soaking in WD helped somewhat). The third is still stuck, but I don't mind sacrificing a torx bit for one (I'm too tight to ruin three torx bits!)

Edited by Nefarious on Friday 9th January 11:00

Edited by Nefarious on Friday 9th January 11:01

Think I might try that tomorrow.