Discussion
Hello there.... i have just bought a 1992 rover mini city E.
I was just wondering if it was possible to fit a set of 14" team dynamics pro race alloys on it? Or would they just be too big? Obv i know you would have 2 modify the arches if it was possible.
Or if that wasn't possible a set of 13x7 ATS classics?
I want something abit differnt you see rather than having a set of minilights on there.
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
I was just wondering if it was possible to fit a set of 14" team dynamics pro race alloys on it? Or would they just be too big? Obv i know you would have 2 modify the arches if it was possible.
Or if that wasn't possible a set of 13x7 ATS classics?
I want something abit differnt you see rather than having a set of minilights on there.
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
The best size wheels for any road-going Mini are the 10" dia with a maximum width of around 5" and 165 section tyres. These do give the best handling and overall grip in all conditions including the wet.
However, as you can't fit 10" without already having or going over to the original Cooper 'S' disc set-up, which is expensive, the best compromise is the 12" dia with a 165 section tyre.
It's different for racing where tyre construction and compounds can be selected to suit individual tracks and wet compounds are available, but for the road it's not possible to change wheels as soon as it rains or the surface is bumpy, so a 165 section width is best to give the best contact pressure at the tyre tread.
The 13" wheels are regarded by most as just cosmetic and not for any sort of performance motoring. They do 'screw-up' the suspension geometry by moving the pivot line outboard on the front which changes the steering geometry and this is another thing which spoils the legendary Mini hndling on twisty roads.
It seems to be that if you perceive the really large diameter wheels as improving looks (a matter of opinion) then you are trading performance/handling for looks.
The really wide wheels do 'knock-out' the wheels bearings more quickly too.
However, as you can't fit 10" without already having or going over to the original Cooper 'S' disc set-up, which is expensive, the best compromise is the 12" dia with a 165 section tyre.
It's different for racing where tyre construction and compounds can be selected to suit individual tracks and wet compounds are available, but for the road it's not possible to change wheels as soon as it rains or the surface is bumpy, so a 165 section width is best to give the best contact pressure at the tyre tread.
The 13" wheels are regarded by most as just cosmetic and not for any sort of performance motoring. They do 'screw-up' the suspension geometry by moving the pivot line outboard on the front which changes the steering geometry and this is another thing which spoils the legendary Mini hndling on twisty roads.
It seems to be that if you perceive the really large diameter wheels as improving looks (a matter of opinion) then you are trading performance/handling for looks.
The really wide wheels do 'knock-out' the wheels bearings more quickly too.
Craig, If that's your Mini in the pic on your details then it looks great.
My personal choice would be to keep the wheels you have, if they are Minilites as they look to be, get a set of Yokohamas in 167/60 x 12" size and spend any cash you have spare from not buying more expensive wheels on getting all the suspension settings absolutely correct.
Ideally you want about 1.5 degree negative camber on the front and the offset lower arm bushes from Mini spares will give about this without changing the arms. It's a morning's work to do this. Set the front track to zero toe-in (i.e straight ahead).
As for the rear, you should go for zero to -0.5 degree negative camber with a 1/8" toe-in at the rear. You adjust this by filing the hole in the rear radius arm retention bracket which mounts onto the subframe and weld a large washer on to keep the location once it's correct. All you need to measure this is a square piece of plywood about 18" x 18" and a flat floor for the camber and a track gauge for the toe-in. Whilst doing this it's always worth making sure the front and rear wheels are in the correct relative alignment to ensure that the car is not 'crabbing' along the road (many do!). Again, it's not difficult to correct with shims/filing.
With adjustable dampers set medium-hard and at standard ride height you'll have a superbly handling Mini.
If you want any more info as to how to do these settings without sophisticated equipment, then just email me.
Good luck with it.
Peter
My personal choice would be to keep the wheels you have, if they are Minilites as they look to be, get a set of Yokohamas in 167/60 x 12" size and spend any cash you have spare from not buying more expensive wheels on getting all the suspension settings absolutely correct.
Ideally you want about 1.5 degree negative camber on the front and the offset lower arm bushes from Mini spares will give about this without changing the arms. It's a morning's work to do this. Set the front track to zero toe-in (i.e straight ahead).
As for the rear, you should go for zero to -0.5 degree negative camber with a 1/8" toe-in at the rear. You adjust this by filing the hole in the rear radius arm retention bracket which mounts onto the subframe and weld a large washer on to keep the location once it's correct. All you need to measure this is a square piece of plywood about 18" x 18" and a flat floor for the camber and a track gauge for the toe-in. Whilst doing this it's always worth making sure the front and rear wheels are in the correct relative alignment to ensure that the car is not 'crabbing' along the road (many do!). Again, it's not difficult to correct with shims/filing.
With adjustable dampers set medium-hard and at standard ride height you'll have a superbly handling Mini.
If you want any more info as to how to do these settings without sophisticated equipment, then just email me.
Good luck with it.
Peter
Yeah it is and thanks
Its nothing special but hey its mine
Been after a mini for a while now and saw mine on the classifieds on here, had a look at it and the following day i bought it!
Just in the process of restoring it..... nearside A-panal and wing shall be going on by the weekend. A few other niggles which need 2 be sorted but nothing serious.... floors are solid and surprisingly original, and so's the subframe.
Obviously for the price i bought it, it was going 2 need bodywork... but what mini doesn't? Besides i would of sooner bought a mini which is like the condition of mine rather than a bodged up body fillered car which will fall 2 bits in a few years time!
I keep changing my mind about what i should do 2 it.... any ideas?
Its nothing special but hey its mine
Been after a mini for a while now and saw mine on the classifieds on here, had a look at it and the following day i bought it!
Just in the process of restoring it..... nearside A-panal and wing shall be going on by the weekend. A few other niggles which need 2 be sorted but nothing serious.... floors are solid and surprisingly original, and so's the subframe.
Obviously for the price i bought it, it was going 2 need bodywork... but what mini doesn't? Besides i would of sooner bought a mini which is like the condition of mine rather than a bodged up body fillered car which will fall 2 bits in a few years time!
I keep changing my mind about what i should do 2 it.... any ideas?
That'll be a 998 engine? I love the 998 as it's so smoth compared to a 1275.
To make a Mini really nice to drive, the following things can be done in this order:
1. Suspension and brakes. Set the ride height to standard and get the suspension geometry correct. Up-rate the brake pads after making sure the discs are OK and not scored. Fit adjustable dampers like SPAX or GAX (not KONI as they are hard to adjust on the car - or at least they used to be)& get good tyres.
2. Engine. The 998 is easy to improve in terms of power increase. Ideally, if you can find one, fit a 12G295 cylinder head off an original Mini-Cooper 998 but gas-flowed with slightly larger inlet valves. Skim thhe head to give 10.4-ish compression ratio. Change the exhaust system for an LCB manifold (small-bore as it's a 998) and a decent silencer like an RC40. Use the existing 1.5" SU carb, but on an alloy inlet manifold. If/when the engine comes out fit a better cam like an MG Metro or a Kent 266. You could then fit twin 1.25" SU carbs like the original Coopers had. If the engine needs a re-build, you can get pistons to take it out to 1061 cc and they are not particularly expensive.
To make a Mini really nice to drive, the following things can be done in this order:
1. Suspension and brakes. Set the ride height to standard and get the suspension geometry correct. Up-rate the brake pads after making sure the discs are OK and not scored. Fit adjustable dampers like SPAX or GAX (not KONI as they are hard to adjust on the car - or at least they used to be)& get good tyres.
2. Engine. The 998 is easy to improve in terms of power increase. Ideally, if you can find one, fit a 12G295 cylinder head off an original Mini-Cooper 998 but gas-flowed with slightly larger inlet valves. Skim thhe head to give 10.4-ish compression ratio. Change the exhaust system for an LCB manifold (small-bore as it's a 998) and a decent silencer like an RC40. Use the existing 1.5" SU carb, but on an alloy inlet manifold. If/when the engine comes out fit a better cam like an MG Metro or a Kent 266. You could then fit twin 1.25" SU carbs like the original Coopers had. If the engine needs a re-build, you can get pistons to take it out to 1061 cc and they are not particularly expensive.
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