Little restoration project . . .
Discussion
They've been sitting around for ages, so finally thought I'd get them sorted properly and on the car . . .
Stage 1 - media blasted to clean em
Stage 2 - Top surface re-milled to get back that original finish (not a lot of material to work with but a great job done)
Stage 3 - Tape off that nice finish (2.5hrs)
Stage 4 - Back to the powder coaters for that glossy black finish
Will post finished pics once done this week . . .


So after the initial decorating the house as the start to the winter, enthusiasm has worn off I'm now heading back to the garage for a few weeks to play with the Griffith
Stage 1 - media blasted to clean em
Stage 2 - Top surface re-milled to get back that original finish (not a lot of material to work with but a great job done)
Stage 3 - Tape off that nice finish (2.5hrs)
Stage 4 - Back to the powder coaters for that glossy black finish

Will post finished pics once done this week . . .
So after the initial decorating the house as the start to the winter, enthusiasm has worn off I'm now heading back to the garage for a few weeks to play with the Griffith

Edited by Johno on Monday 19th January 23:10
Its a pain to keep the alloy faces clean Johnno, make sure you seal them somehow.
I really contemplated having the raised bits coated, and the sunken bits in a contrasting colour... but then realized a clear coat would have the same effect
They are impossible to keep clean under the throttle! ~ I also attached the extension filler neck on to help keep oil spills away. Keeping cleaning to a minimum is my motto though 
I really contemplated having the raised bits coated, and the sunken bits in a contrasting colour... but then realized a clear coat would have the same effect
They are impossible to keep clean under the throttle! ~ I also attached the extension filler neck on to help keep oil spills away. Keeping cleaning to a minimum is my motto though 
spend said:
Its a pain to keep the alloy faces clean Johnno, make sure you seal them somehow.
I really contemplated having the raised bits coated, and the sunken bits in a contrasting colour... but then realized a clear coat would have the same effect
They are impossible to keep clean under the throttle! ~ I also attached the extension filler neck on to help keep oil spills away. Keeping cleaning to a minimum is my motto though 
You can get High Temp Clear Engine bay paint in a spray can. I have used it and it seems OK so far, Although waiting for some warmer weather to put them on the car, probably now wait till spring.I really contemplated having the raised bits coated, and the sunken bits in a contrasting colour... but then realized a clear coat would have the same effect
They are impossible to keep clean under the throttle! ~ I also attached the extension filler neck on to help keep oil spills away. Keeping cleaning to a minimum is my motto though 
I got mine off Fleabay for about a fiver
Trev
Been having this debate and considering options. My previous rockers are fully powder coated and so life was easy . . Especially as they're black 
I'm also changing the o/s fire trap/breather to atmosphere as I can't restrict the breather system adequately to stop unsettling the idle set up with the Emerald.
So therefore I'm going to have misting on that side in addition to any other spills etc . .
A clear lacquer over all of it once clean and shiny would be the ideal solution as the milled finish would be sealed as highlighted and it would be a wipe off exercise.
I'm going over to the powder coater with them today and intend to have a chat with him. He's done all the work in my engine bay and I'm chuffed with his work.
Someone suggested that after the black was on, then you could have a clear powder coat put onto them and that would do the job, but I'm not convinced, but will check it out today and let you know.
Re-milling the surfaces has meant that one side is now too low to go back through the process (perhaps done previously althugh I thinnk it's always been like it - fortunately it's the most obscured one), so getting a protective layer is pretty important. They're rough old casts once you get them stripped down and have a look at em . .

I'm also changing the o/s fire trap/breather to atmosphere as I can't restrict the breather system adequately to stop unsettling the idle set up with the Emerald.
So therefore I'm going to have misting on that side in addition to any other spills etc . .
A clear lacquer over all of it once clean and shiny would be the ideal solution as the milled finish would be sealed as highlighted and it would be a wipe off exercise.
I'm going over to the powder coater with them today and intend to have a chat with him. He's done all the work in my engine bay and I'm chuffed with his work.
Someone suggested that after the black was on, then you could have a clear powder coat put onto them and that would do the job, but I'm not convinced, but will check it out today and let you know.
Re-milling the surfaces has meant that one side is now too low to go back through the process (perhaps done previously althugh I thinnk it's always been like it - fortunately it's the most obscured one), so getting a protective layer is pretty important. They're rough old casts once you get them stripped down and have a look at em . .
I'm not really keen on lacquers or paint as the valve area (including guides, springs...) get very hot. A main advantage of those covers, as well as being able to rollers underneath
, is the extra cooling that they provide. Personally I will use ceramic coatings designed for heat dispersal, although I'm not sure about the looks / durability..
, is the extra cooling that they provide. Personally I will use ceramic coatings designed for heat dispersal, although I'm not sure about the looks / durability..Agree with the heat issue, however, given the great internal air space and the lack of additional internal splash plates they should runa bit cooler than the originals anyway . ..
So I'm having them lacquered all over once the powder coat is done. If we went for clear coat powder they go off with a yellow tinge, which I certainly don't want.
So I'm having them lacquered all over once the powder coat is done. If we went for clear coat powder they go off with a yellow tinge, which I certainly don't want.
spend said:
I'm not really keen on lacquers or paint as the valve area (including guides, springs...) get very hot. A main advantage of those covers, as well as being able to rollers underneath
, is the extra cooling that they provide. Personally I will use ceramic coatings designed for heat dispersal, although I'm not sure about the looks / durability..
How do they create better cooling exactly when they are purched on rubber/cork gaskets(great heat tranfer)? thats one of your best to date Spend
, is the extra cooling that they provide. Personally I will use ceramic coatings designed for heat dispersal, although I'm not sure about the looks / durability..
i mean the fact they dont even get rushed with cold air when the extra coolings needed but hot air instead
you really dont know much about the motor car or heat transfer for that matter do you Spend?
maybe the four screws securing the rocker covers can channel enormous amounts of heat from the hot heads and up into the rocker covers 
That Daddy said:
spend said:
I'm not really keen on lacquers or paint as the valve area (including guides, springs...) get very hot. A main advantage of those covers, as well as being able to rollers underneath
, is the extra cooling that they provide. Personally I will use ceramic coatings designed for heat dispersal, although I'm not sure about the looks / durability..
How do they create better cooling exactly when they are purched on rubber/cork gaskets(great heat tranfer)? thats one of your best to date Spend
, is the extra cooling that they provide. Personally I will use ceramic coatings designed for heat dispersal, although I'm not sure about the looks / durability..
i mean the fact they dont even get rushed with cold air when the extra coolings needed but hot air instead
you really dont know much about the motor car or heat transfer for that matter do you Spend?
maybe the four screws securing the rocker covers can channel enormous amounts of heat from the hot heads and up into the rocker covers 

spend said:
You obviously think differently TD, I am happy for you 
Thanks Spend 
and no Pupp its not gonna go off again Spend and myself will just have to agree to disagree
its all good Edited by That Daddy on Tuesday 20th January 21:28
That Daddy said:
i knew what you meant by that reply Spend by the way.
I doubt it very much, but your post was quite clear about your understanding as well as your attitude
Hint: conduction is not the sole method of heat transfer

apologies Johnno, I'll stay away from this thread now for the good of PH
spend said:
That Daddy said:
i knew what you meant by that reply Spend by the way.
I doubt it very much, but your post was quite clear about your understanding as well as your attitude
Hint: conduction is not the sole method of heat transfer

apologies Johnno, I'll stay away from this tread now for the good of PH
TD, I dont know what Spend has done to you but cant help notice you following him around and trying to either wind him up/ be little his thoughts etc please stop it as it's becoming very tiresome
constructive debate only perlease 
BB
Hi Johno,
Happy new year, glad you have got your priorities right, house stuff can be so dull. Rocker covers look nice, how about clear powder coat, and stove enamel the black OR roller ball burnish then black stove. Either way the alloy will last for years. If you remember I RBB all the alloy parts of my Griff and it still look amazing 6 years later.
When you coming back this way, must be well overdue for BEER
Happy new year, glad you have got your priorities right, house stuff can be so dull. Rocker covers look nice, how about clear powder coat, and stove enamel the black OR roller ball burnish then black stove. Either way the alloy will last for years. If you remember I RBB all the alloy parts of my Griff and it still look amazing 6 years later.
When you coming back this way, must be well overdue for BEER
spend said:
That Daddy said:
i knew what you meant by that reply Spend by the way.
I doubt it very much, but your post was quite clear about your understanding as well as your attitude
Hint: conduction is not the sole method of heat transfer

apologies Johnno, I'll stay away from this thread now for the good of PH
BB as usual its my fault,but its cool smile i know the workings of this forum now
by the way Johno nice job thumbup those TVR covers are much nicer that the boring Rover ones.Edited by That Daddy on Wednesday 21st January 10:25
mickypee said:
Hi Johno,
Happy new year, glad you have got your priorities right, house stuff can be so dull. Rocker covers look nice, how about clear powder coat, and stove enamel the black OR roller ball burnish then black stove. Either way the alloy will last for years. If you remember I RBB all the alloy parts of my Griff and it still look amazing 6 years later.
When you coming back this way, must be well overdue for BEER
Hello Mike, long time no speak . . . I've gone or black powder coat, then a clear lacquer over the lot. Clear powder coat will tend to go yellow especially when heated constantly.Happy new year, glad you have got your priorities right, house stuff can be so dull. Rocker covers look nice, how about clear powder coat, and stove enamel the black OR roller ball burnish then black stove. Either way the alloy will last for years. If you remember I RBB all the alloy parts of my Griff and it still look amazing 6 years later.
When you coming back this way, must be well overdue for BEER
I'm sure yours still looks very very nice, but I doubt it's done as many miles in the last 3yrs that mine would do in one month in the summer ?
I'm down soon probably to see Ted for a beer and do the quiz, i'll let you know when.
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