dog training - advice for when off the lead needed!
Discussion
We have a 9 month old golden retriever, very weel trained around the house now and knows his commands but big problems with obedience when out with him. If I take him to the park and let him off he's fine if there are no other dogs about but as soon as he spots another dog, no matter how far away he's off. Wont come back no matter if I shout sternly or in an excited way he just chooses not to listen.
Methods I've tried so far, Treats in the pocket and as soon he starts to go I shout what's this and he comes back for a treat. That lasted all of a week before he realised the other dogs were more interesting than a biscuit.
Tried to train him the come back command using a whistle cobined with the above, treat when he comes back etc, again worked for a while but now ignores it.
Any tips or help appreciated, I know he's still young but I want him to get used to being off the lead and learning otherwise I'm just going to have to keep him on and I don't really want to do that as he's a large dog and needs to able to run. I just can't seem to teach him not to chase after other dogs!
Methods I've tried so far, Treats in the pocket and as soon he starts to go I shout what's this and he comes back for a treat. That lasted all of a week before he realised the other dogs were more interesting than a biscuit.
Tried to train him the come back command using a whistle cobined with the above, treat when he comes back etc, again worked for a while but now ignores it.
Any tips or help appreciated, I know he's still young but I want him to get used to being off the lead and learning otherwise I'm just going to have to keep him on and I don't really want to do that as he's a large dog and needs to able to run. I just can't seem to teach him not to chase after other dogs!
Get a long line and train him to recall on that, then get two longlines and tie them together and train him to recall. Use liver.
It's hard work, and he's a puppy so he's going to be excitable. Also, he's friendly, so that's not a bad thing.
Don't shout, just use the whistle, and praise him when he comes back. Shouting can be an angry noise so not encouraging, and the whistle has no emotion attached. Do not shout or punish him when he comes back, as he won't want to in future.
It's hard work, and he's a puppy so he's going to be excitable. Also, he's friendly, so that's not a bad thing.
Don't shout, just use the whistle, and praise him when he comes back. Shouting can be an angry noise so not encouraging, and the whistle has no emotion attached. Do not shout or punish him when he comes back, as he won't want to in future.
Edited by Jasandjules on Wednesday 21st January 16:20
BigLepton said:
He doesn't consider you his boss yet by the sound of things. You need to make him realise you are the pack leader.
That is also part of it yes, if he obeys you in the house but not outdoors then you are not the full pack leader. Oh, does he pull on the lead? Do you let him go first out the door when going for a walk etc?
Couple of suggestions
1. At his normal meal times, prepare his food in secret, ideally in differnat places round the house or garden - then use the whistle to summon him - it helps build the association
2. Practice the stay command and use the whistle as the release for him to come to you.
3. He might not be fully socialised, so other dogs are still a big attraction, try waking him with another dog owner/friend
4. When you first let him off the lead, as soon as he is ten paces away, recall him. Then do it again at 20 paces, for the first ten minutes of the walk, keep him close, or recall him often
Puppies have an phase where they rebel and are quite teenagery, so be consistent with him, keep up the praise when he does come back.
Good luck !
Both of my Dobes are taught to never go further than a certain distance away and never turn a corner without me so they are always in my sight.
I trained them by using treats (sausages did the trick) which I don't need to use now but really did work, partly because I always walk them before their breakfast or dinner so they are hungry.
Labs are known for loving their food so if you can hit on just the right morsel the dog can't resist you should be on to a winner. Good luck.
I trained them by using treats (sausages did the trick) which I don't need to use now but really did work, partly because I always walk them before their breakfast or dinner so they are hungry.
Labs are known for loving their food so if you can hit on just the right morsel the dog can't resist you should be on to a winner. Good luck.
With mine, I took several tennis balls out on a walk, call the dog, as he gets close chuck the tennis ball through your legs. Start when there are no dogs around and build it up gradually. This will get the dog coming quickly, and straight at you, none of that catch me if you can buisness.
Another tip is haveing him on either a long lead, try a horse lunge line, mor a length of twine. Then pull the dog in, gradually shortern the line.
Best tip is go to training classes!!!
Another tip is haveing him on either a long lead, try a horse lunge line, mor a length of twine. Then pull the dog in, gradually shortern the line.
Best tip is go to training classes!!!
paul001 said:
We have a 9 month old golden retriever, very weel trained around the house now and knows his commands but big problems with obedience when out with him. If I take him to the park and let him off he's fine if there are no other dogs about but as soon as he spots another dog, no matter how far away he's off. Wont come back no matter if I shout sternly or in an excited way he just chooses not to listen.
My 7 month old flat coat retriever is exactly the same. 
We have met a few friendly dog owners who don't mind her playing with their dog, once she's had a bit of fun she'll follow commands correctly. It's pretty embarrassing when she decides to leg it half a mile across a field and you have to go running after her though.
We're trying the long lead thing at the moment but all she does is pull and pull. A few owners of other young dogs have assured me she'll grow out of it but I'm not so sure. Think training classes are the next idea for us, although she'll be hyper there with all the other dogs and no doubt show us up completely.
She's a friendly pup though so at least we're not having to deal with aggressive behaviour, trying to look on the positive side here.
Your dog is entering teenage years, which is when these things start to happen.
Apart from that, you need to make sure YOU are the most interesting and exciting thing in the park. Biscuits won't cut it. You need to up the ante. Find out what it is that your dog can't resist - roast chicken, ham, sausages, cheese, squeaky toy....... Whatever it is, your dog only gets it for a treat when out on a walk.
How often do you recall your dog? You need to practice recall all the time. If you leave it until the end of the walk, clip the dog's lead on - end of walk - dog is not going to be happy coming back as it means end of fun. Recall throughout the walk, grab collar first when dog approaches (or they get well versed in the snatch and grab technique), give special treat, lots of fuss, give release command.
Other things to generally teach your dog to do as it's told.... No attention unless all 4 feet on the ground, and preferably bum too. No lead on unless feet and bum on the ground. Wait with feet and bum on the ground while front door opened and then asked to follow you. Feet and bum on the ground while lead is unclipped. Wait until release command is given. Sit and wait at kerbs.
As has already been said, training classes are great. Loads of distractions to work with and dogs and people to socialise with.
Apart from that, you need to make sure YOU are the most interesting and exciting thing in the park. Biscuits won't cut it. You need to up the ante. Find out what it is that your dog can't resist - roast chicken, ham, sausages, cheese, squeaky toy....... Whatever it is, your dog only gets it for a treat when out on a walk.
How often do you recall your dog? You need to practice recall all the time. If you leave it until the end of the walk, clip the dog's lead on - end of walk - dog is not going to be happy coming back as it means end of fun. Recall throughout the walk, grab collar first when dog approaches (or they get well versed in the snatch and grab technique), give special treat, lots of fuss, give release command.
Other things to generally teach your dog to do as it's told.... No attention unless all 4 feet on the ground, and preferably bum too. No lead on unless feet and bum on the ground. Wait with feet and bum on the ground while front door opened and then asked to follow you. Feet and bum on the ground while lead is unclipped. Wait until release command is given. Sit and wait at kerbs.
As has already been said, training classes are great. Loads of distractions to work with and dogs and people to socialise with.
Use baked liver. Liver is a treat which only the pack leaders get in the wild, so they will look to obtain it...Sadly it stinks when you bake it....
As above, don't feed him before the walk if you can do that... That way he'll be a lot keener to recall for his liver treat. Also as above, do it a few times at the start of the walk. Or, if you have the time, walk him for about 30-40 mins at a fast pace, THEN let him off the lead, basically so he is tired and won't run away nor disobey so much. Then get on with the recall training... He will be tired and hungry and should respond better. Also, when tired, dogs are less likely to disobey commands.
If you have freeview, the Dog Whisperer is your friend.
As above, don't feed him before the walk if you can do that... That way he'll be a lot keener to recall for his liver treat. Also as above, do it a few times at the start of the walk. Or, if you have the time, walk him for about 30-40 mins at a fast pace, THEN let him off the lead, basically so he is tired and won't run away nor disobey so much. Then get on with the recall training... He will be tired and hungry and should respond better. Also, when tired, dogs are less likely to disobey commands.
If you have freeview, the Dog Whisperer is your friend.
singlecoil said:
You can get remote controlled electric collars, they advertise them in Country Life. Nothing like a little zap to get a dog's attention.
Or in fact to scare it s
tless so it runs off or bites the nearest thing near it in fear 
Lazy and ineffective. No such thing as a quick fix, no matter what Cesar says.
the advice given above is good...
i prefer not to use electric collars....
if you have to use something, get one that sprays a small amount of liquid (preferably with a lemon type smell)..
the idea is to surprise and reinforce commands.
however that should only be a last resort.
giving the dog a good reason to come back to you (and praising them when they do) is always the better option.
So treats given sparingly, praise when they do something good and in general making you more exciting than anything else in the park will keep your dog obediant
you'll know you are the leader of the pack when your dog constantly looks at you for the next move it should make when out on walks.
i prefer not to use electric collars....
if you have to use something, get one that sprays a small amount of liquid (preferably with a lemon type smell)..
the idea is to surprise and reinforce commands.
however that should only be a last resort.
giving the dog a good reason to come back to you (and praising them when they do) is always the better option.
So treats given sparingly, praise when they do something good and in general making you more exciting than anything else in the park will keep your dog obediant
you'll know you are the leader of the pack when your dog constantly looks at you for the next move it should make when out on walks.
Punishment and praise.You have not got much time left as your dog is getting on in age as far as training goes.As soon as he even flinches,grab him and shout in his face(nose to nose)make him sit a minute so he can take in whats just happened,then make a fuss of him.If he gets 10 yards away or 100 yards away,grab him shout in his face then drag him back to your original position,make him sit,then the fuss bit.this may take a couple of days and you will get sick of dragging him back.
Just remember he is your dog and you are the one who cares for him.This training method will get funny looks and sometimes being called some unsavourey names But it does work.Usually those who complain have got the most unruley dogs and don't give a f--k.Iyou go the treats route only give him just enough so as to taste
Just remember he is your dog and you are the one who cares for him.This training method will get funny looks and sometimes being called some unsavourey names But it does work.Usually those who complain have got the most unruley dogs and don't give a f--k.Iyou go the treats route only give him just enough so as to taste
smifffymoto said:
Punishment and praise.You have not got much time left as your dog is getting on in age as far as training goes.As soon as he even flinches,grab him and shout in his face(nose to nose)make him sit a minute so he can take in whats just happened,then make a fuss of him.If he gets 10 yards away or 100 yards away,grab him shout in his face then drag him back to your original position,make him sit,then the fuss bit.this may take a couple of days and you will get sick of dragging him back.
Just remember he is your dog and you are the one who cares for him.This training method will get funny looks and sometimes being called some unsavourey names But it does work.Usually those who complain have got the most unruley dogs and don't give a f--k.Iyou go the treats route only give him just enough so as to taste
Yep - the dog's REALLY going to want to come back to you if you start punishing it Just remember he is your dog and you are the one who cares for him.This training method will get funny looks and sometimes being called some unsavourey names But it does work.Usually those who complain have got the most unruley dogs and don't give a f--k.Iyou go the treats route only give him just enough so as to taste
And age has nothing to do with it. Old dogs CAN be taught new tricks.
smifffymoto said:
Punishment and praise.You have not got much time left as your dog is getting on in age as far as training goes.As soon as he even flinches,grab him and shout in his face(nose to nose)make him sit a minute so he can take in whats just happened,then make a fuss of him.If he gets 10 yards away or 100 yards away,grab him shout in his face then drag him back to your original position,make him sit,then the fuss bit.this may take a couple of days and you will get sick of dragging him back.
Just remember he is your dog and you are the one who cares for him.This training method will get funny looks and sometimes being called some unsavourey names But it does work.Usually those who complain have got the most unruley dogs and don't give a f--k.Iyou go the treats route only give him just enough so as to taste
Please don't do this, its entirely unnecessary and possible counter productive, it also relies totally on fear and that is not a good thing IMHO. Just remember he is your dog and you are the one who cares for him.This training method will get funny looks and sometimes being called some unsavourey names But it does work.Usually those who complain have got the most unruley dogs and don't give a f--k.Iyou go the treats route only give him just enough so as to taste
Most seriou puppy training takes place between six month and eighteen months - so this one still has plenty of time.
At 9months your dog is still a big baby. When he sees other dogs his exitment level is so high he probably doesnt even register that you are calling him back. My Shepherd was just the same, v well behaved but all went to pieces when other dogs appeared on the scene. Recall is the most important comand, and work hard on the DOWN aswell which 'should' stop him in his tracks. Practise recall and you need to do this with other dogs around him. Training classes will fit the bill and you will soon have him off lead and in control with a dozen other dogs around. Tit bits and praise when he does good, no problem with a firm voice when he misbehaves. It will all be worth it...
Reread your post. You must be consistant in commands, "whats this" or rustling a packet will confuse the issue. COME is all you need. Make sure when you use the command he comes. Even if you go and grab him and drag him back. Never use a command if you cant enforce the result. Long training lead ideal.
Reread your post. You must be consistant in commands, "whats this" or rustling a packet will confuse the issue. COME is all you need. Make sure when you use the command he comes. Even if you go and grab him and drag him back. Never use a command if you cant enforce the result. Long training lead ideal.
Edited by R TOY on Wednesday 21st January 21:33
Gassing Station | The Pie & Piston Archive | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff