Whats making my hot water tank buzz?
Discussion
Now I imagine the logical answer is call a plumber, or heating engineer or what ever they call themselves these days.
But this being Pistonheads and everyone being an expert in everything it's worth a try.....
Recently my hot water tank has started buzzing, and it's quite loud, loud enough for it to be bugging me.
Looking at, and listerning to the tank you can't pinpoint what is making the noise it appears to be coming from inside. Everything is working fine, it's just bloody noisey.
I know if I start taking it to bits I'm likely to get wet, and it'll never work again but are these thing servicable or is it worse case time and it'll be a new tank?
But this being Pistonheads and everyone being an expert in everything it's worth a try.....
Recently my hot water tank has started buzzing, and it's quite loud, loud enough for it to be bugging me.
Looking at, and listerning to the tank you can't pinpoint what is making the noise it appears to be coming from inside. Everything is working fine, it's just bloody noisey.
I know if I start taking it to bits I'm likely to get wet, and it'll never work again but are these thing servicable or is it worse case time and it'll be a new tank?
There are two things in a hot water tank, a coil that allows hot water from your heating to circulate through the water inside the tank and therefore heat it, and/or a thermostatically controlled electrical element, like a big kettle element.
I can't see why either would cuase a buzzing noise.
Make sure your immersion heater element is turned off. Does it still make the noise?
Turn off the heating, does it still make the noise?
I'm guessing it's most likely to be vibration through the heating pipes. Could you heating pump be on it's way out?
I can't see why either would cuase a buzzing noise.
Make sure your immersion heater element is turned off. Does it still make the noise?
Turn off the heating, does it still make the noise?
I'm guessing it's most likely to be vibration through the heating pipes. Could you heating pump be on it's way out?
In an ideal world changing the pump would take about 10 minutes.
Isolate water with the pump valves.
Undo the big nuts catching any water.
De-wire.
Remove.
Put new in.
Re-wire.
Open valves.
Vent.
Switch on.
It won't be that easy.....
The isolating valves rarely hold off completely. You may either have to do it with lots of towels under it OR drain down until water level is below pump. Whatever you do make sure the heating has been turned off a while to lose the heat.
Isolate water with the pump valves.
Undo the big nuts catching any water.
De-wire.
Remove.
Put new in.
Re-wire.
Open valves.
Vent.
Switch on.
It won't be that easy.....
The isolating valves rarely hold off completely. You may either have to do it with lots of towels under it OR drain down until water level is below pump. Whatever you do make sure the heating has been turned off a while to lose the heat.
Edited by Ferg on Saturday 24th January 09:37
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... have the terrorists gone?
Mexico. said:
One problem could be the T&P valve ( brass valve with little chrome lever) the spring inside could be worn out causing a buzzing noise, as water passes through. These valves should be tested and checked every 2 years.
It'd only have a temperature and pressure relief if it's an unvented cylinder, which it may be of course. However if it has water passing through it then there is a fault on the cylinder. An unvented cylinder (and it's valves) should be checked EVERY year.raceboy said:
And after it making a racket ALL night, now I have the covers off ready to locate the source of the noise it's quiet as a mouse. 
Ah mine makes noises every now and again. Been going on for about two years. Have a new pump in reserve ready to change if need be. But always seems to be a temporary problem.Ferg said:
In an ideal world changing the pump would take about 10 minutes.
Isolate water with the pump valves.
Undo the big nuts catching any water.
De-wire.
Remove.
Put new in.
Re-wire.
Open valves.
Vent.
Switch on.
It won't be that easy.....
The isolating valves rarely hold off completely. You may either have to do it with lots of towels under it OR drain down until water level is below pump. Whatever you do make sure the heating has been turned off a while to lose the heat.
They might also like to turn the electric off before starting. Failure to do so could be shockingIsolate water with the pump valves.
Undo the big nuts catching any water.
De-wire.
Remove.
Put new in.
Re-wire.
Open valves.
Vent.
Switch on.
It won't be that easy.....
The isolating valves rarely hold off completely. You may either have to do it with lots of towels under it OR drain down until water level is below pump. Whatever you do make sure the heating has been turned off a while to lose the heat.
Well my glacial approach to DIY brings me back to this bloody noise....it had gone away for a bit, but now it's back worse than ever.
Once I got my head in the area of the racket it became clear the noise was coming from the 3 Way Diverter Valve
Of course these pics are taken with the camera pointing back at the access opening, tempted to unscrew the lid but it's a nightmare working blind and the pipes are red hot at the moment.
Once I got my head in the area of the racket it became clear the noise was coming from the 3 Way Diverter Valve
Of course these pics are taken with the camera pointing back at the access opening, tempted to unscrew the lid but it's a nightmare working blind and the pipes are red hot at the moment.
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