Clutch change - gearbox bolts won't shift

[Tanguero]

I'm trying to change my clutch, and can't shift the M12 Allen bolts that connect the gearbox to the bellhousing. Spent all day yesterday and all morning today trying to move them unsuccessfuly - and that is just the lower ones where access is easy. I can't even begin to imagine how to undo the top ones!

Does anyone have any suggestions or even words of encouragement!?!

Edited by Tanguero on Sunday 25th January 14:16

[GreenV8S]

Is the problem access, or generating enough torque?

[Tanguero]

GreenV8S said:

Is the problem access, or generating enough torque?

For the bottom ones it's generating enough torque. I have the car on stands and have a reasonable amount of room inderneath but you cant get an Allen bit on a 3/8 drove onto the thing because its so close to the gearbox. I have had a 10mm Allen bit in the bolt with a ring spanner on the shaft of the bit pounding the other end with a mallet - nothing has shifted.

I havnt tried undoing the top ones yet...

[GreenV8S]

I don't know what access is like there, but is there any way to use an extension to get back far enough to get a decent bar on it? If you can get a half inch socket with a good hex key on it then you can get some proper leverage on it. Try to force it with short spanners is more likely to end up damaging things, and if you start knackering the heads then things get much harder.

[Ballsy]

What about using a normal allen key with a bit of pipe instead of the allen socket?

[esso]

I had to weld up a long extension to undo mine,its the only way to undo the top ones,then you can get a tommy-bar on and lever against the chassis.If your removing the bell-housing you will need an 8m/m one also.If you have slim sockets it helps too as your so close to the gearbox & bellhousing.

Edited by esso on Sunday 25th January 16:10

[Tanguero]

Thanks for the ideas chaps! I found some stubby extra long allen keys on fleabay - so I will give them a go next weekend (hopefully when I am not lying with my head in a muddy puddle).

Thanks esso for the clue to getting the top ones out!

[GreenV8S]

Just to give you another perspective, I would encourage you to go for proper good quality hex bits in a half inch socket, rather than using a key. It's very important that the key engages evenly with the bolt and doesn't flex. It's easy to get hold of allen keys that are fine under low torque but flex when you start putting high loads on them. This makes it easy to bruise the bolt and limits the torque it can take. If they're tight you need to be very careful about the fit between the key and the bolt. This is the problem with cap head bolts, because the hex is so much smaller relative to the bolt size they take less torque and are easier to damage.

[itsallyellow]

I have found using a selection of extensions so you can get a large bar in there is best. Air tools are also your friend.

With regards to the top ones the same applies. The passenger side top one is difficult. I used wxtension bars conected with UJ's so they went around the box. Once you get them started its easy.

I was using a 1.5 ft breaker bar to undo them aswell. So yes they are tight!

Mike

[Tanguero]

I could get a 3/8 hex socket into the bolt but there then wasn't room to fit an extension or ratchet into the socket. No way would a 1/2 inch one go on. Maybe 3/8 sockets with a shorter hex bit would work.

[350Matt]

Use a long 1/2" extension to attack teh bolts from the prop end of the box and step the extension down to 3/8 over the last 6" you need the thicker bar over that distance.

Might be an idea to replace the bolts when you're done as well.