Portraits - walk me through it

[andy-xr]

Last year I did a lot of landscape, mostly because it was a nice way into understanding my camera; no-one interrupted me and I didnt get in anyone's way while I worked.

This year I'd like to do some portraiture, more staged/posed indoor than candid out and about. Nothing too racy; family shots, work photos etc. I doubt I'll be hiring a studio though, it'll need to be a makeshift transportable one.

What should I be looking for in terms of gear? Lighting, diffusers and backdrops especially.

[Bee_Jay]

Speak to the guys at The Flash Centre, do one of their courses and you will then have a damn good idea of what you want.

http://www.theflashcentre.com/looking-to-learn-c28...

[stigmundfreud]

there's loads you can buy such as collapsable backgrounds etc but why outlay on stuff when the world gives you what you want for free in abundance?

I'd recommend going on a course too but be careful, the other year I went on a night course to do portraits and all they taught was that digital is not real photography, no one got critiqued as they didnt want to upset people etc. It was good way to meet people though but just be careful if you do choose to go on a course.

I just bought a book for bedtime reading, it is actually quite a good read. Nothing OTT, a bit of smoke up the authors arse etc but still a good read: 100 Ways to take better portrait photographs by Daniel Lezano and Bjorn Thomassen (isbn-13:978-0-13-2325-0)

[andy-xr]

Thanks Stig, I was hoping you'd make an appearance on this one

I think I'm OK with theory, well I hope I am. In any event there's little to no pressure on me to do it right first time or everytime with the subjects

I'm more interested in studio than out and about as I'm after a specific look. Probably cliched, but it's what I fancy doing.

Are the starter kits (Bessel etc) any use, or is it a case of buy cheap buy twice? I'm thinking a couple or three softboxes, umbrellas and use the flash I already have, possibly add another. A runthrough of what you're using would be great if you have time to type it, been a big fan of what you've done, in the past 3 months especially

[stigmundfreud]

ok for studio shizzle you can get a studio look quite cheap. If you have enough space (3m) you can get paper rolls and just drop them to floor level = only really good for head shots. Paper roll = 45 quid, brackets from DIY shop = 4 quid, then the support beam is 35 quid. Alternately you can get pop up backgrounds, I imagine you are after high key look?

Its all down to budget but what I will say is take a look at www.karlu.com I use these guys for years and are very cheap and always deliver next day (always phone to check stock mind) My first studio background was this:

http://www.karlu.com/product_info.php?cPath=769_77...

great value, portable and got good results - its not easy to put away, well it is once you get the knack! But with that kit you get a high key white background that doesnt require much light to brighten and also a nice black background all in for 134 notes. Limitation is the width but I did family of 4 with it.

http://www.karlu.com/index.php?cPath=769_770 is their page for studio background kits.

Your also going to want some good lighting. Buy cheap and regret it for a day but no point in Bowens tbh either! Friend of mine ignored advice, bought cheaper flash heads which are frankly st, little support and only 1 outlet selling spares. Interfit make superb heads which you can buy in modules, they support both light/radio/wire triggers

As you are wanting studio look I take it you're not affraid of getting some heads. You can get away with good flash like the 430EX but really you want dedicated heads for studio. Minimum is 2 heads ideally to illuminate subjec and background or to give you some control over light.

http://www.karlu.com/index.php?cPath=41_806_64_716...

The stellar range uses the universal S type fitment for kit = god send, also uses standard ring flash and modelling lights. What is also useful is you can use them as continuous lighting if you dont attatch a trigger The great thing about the kits is you will get heads, reflectors, soft boxes, flash heads, stands, carry bags etc.

End of the day if you spend silly you can always flog it later. In fact my collapsable kit I no longer use or have any need for. The white train has a mild stain from red wine but its not noticable as its on the section you stand on plus flash will burn it out

[F308 MAN]

http://www.markcleghorn.com/training/seminars/monk...

tour starts tomorrow (2nd feb) ... £23 for the day !

[andy-xr]

stigmundfreud said:

Exactly what I needed

Thanks for that, perfect! You've also answered another question I hadnt asked yet, about whether it would be better to look at continual lighting (preferred) over flash heads.

One more though, I'm looking at a mid range kit and there's the option of 150W/300W

Better to have more than you need and turn down than be left needing more and not have it?

[stigmundfreud]

WEll I like continuous but only done a few with it, its got a nice quality. 150 vs 300, well I went 300 which I might go larger in future with bigger studio being built. 150 is more than enough but if you can afford to go 300 I would go that way as you can always turn it down.

What I will say is your trigger is the most important bit. Cables are fantastic but get in the way and will, without doubt, break. They always do eventually usually on the pc end at the camera. If you end up with interfit you have the option of cable (direct into head) - radio trigger (extra$$$ and needs to connect into the cable port) or IR trigger.

IR is the way to go as once one flash triggers the rest will trigger as a result. I use a TR-1 trigger, cost me 10 quid. Brilliant never let me down. Unfortunately I cannot remember where I got it from but Karlu do the Interfit IR trigger = http://www.karlu.com/product_info.php?products_id=...

Trust me you want to move from cable, I only use cable when setting the lights up

eta the continuous vs flash, both have their place. If you go flash head with modelling light you can cheat and get a continual light setup from it by simply not triggering the flash.

flash

flash not triggered


ok admittedly the hue is different (I should take care of that but cba) but you can see you can use the heads either way

Edited by stigmundfreud on Sunday 1st February 15:01