slave cylinder leaking

[ancol]

hi guys has anyone got step by step guide on changing the slave cylinder,shame really cos the clutch itself is fine but i have to keep filling master cylinder up all the time now so goto bite the bullet and change slave puddle getting bigger under gearbox too.also is it possible to get enough access uder car with normal car ramps

[esso]

You need MadMarks "How To" guide,its invaluable for for this job,it used to be posted on here.not sure if it still is but i`m sure someone will be along in a bit to tell you how to get hold of it...................

[Ballsy]

Canny remeber whos site this is but the guide for the slave cylender is on it along with alot of other things..... great site

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dave.hinns/index.htm

[ancol]

thanks for the help guys, spose i better freeze my nuts off next week in the garage lol

[ancol]

tried the link would,nt let me open or download anything

[SimonKD]

ancol said:

i have to keep filling master cylinder up all the time now

Hi Andy

Just a word of warning, this job is better done sooner rather than later as in time the leaking clutch fluid can contaminate the clutch plates and destroy the friction material.
The link above seems to work fine this morning.

Regards
Simon

[Tanguero]

I am half way through changing the clutch at the moment - yes you can do it on ramps/axle stands, though obviously the more height you can give yourself the more comfortable you will be.

I found that the scissor jack from my snotter skoda was very usefull for supporting the gearbox without getting in the way too much. You will also want a good long breaking bar and some lengthy wobble extensions for getting the top Allen bolts out when it comes to separating the gearbox from the bellhousing.

[ancol]

thanks for the advice chaps much appreciated,what do you think about just changing the slave cylinder car has done 23,000 from new so assume its original clutch cheers andy

[kojak]

Yes I would. If you are changing the clutch then i'd do the slave too. Everytime I have a clutch in, thats what they do. I'm on my third.

[esso]

When i did mine the car had only done 21000 miles,i thought that while the car was apart might as well change the clutch.A word of advice when changing the slave cylinder,make sure you get the correct one,there are 3 different types i`m told,compare the new one against the old one,check the piston length,they can be different.Also when bleeding the clutch,check the master seals are ok too!,check you dont have fluid leaking into the drivers side footwell!!

[ancol]

cheers useful to know these things will check out when i can brave lying under the car in a freezing garage.

[esso]

Take your time and if you lose your rag with it(you will!) go & have a cup of tea!I had to do mine twice because the first time i was supplied the incorrect slave-cylinder!(if you need any more advice P.M. me and i will call you)

Edited by esso on Friday 6th February 10:36

[plug]

Marks guide is on the Clever Trevor website click on the manuals link at the top of the page, I have used it and found it very usefull.
I have fitted the raceproved clutch and slave and found them to be a big improvment.

[cupra20v.t]

sorry to be a bit of a dummy, the cylinder on the bulkhead back of the clutch pedal is called the master cylinder? and the cylinder in the box is the slave? is that right or not?

I have the engine out and the box out and off the engine, how do I access the slave to pull it apart and investiagte?

[itiejim]

Yep, that's right.

The slave on these things sits behind the clutch release bearing and pushes on it directly rather than via a lever of any sort. Therefore you'll need to split the engine and 'box.

[WIL35]

esso said:

Take your time and if you lose your rag with it(you will!) go & have a cup of tea!I had to do mine twice because the first time i was supplied the incorrect slave-cylinder!(if you need any more advice P.M. me and i will call you)

It must be so much easier the second time!

I did mine last year and I found the hardest parts were; the gearbox and bellhousing bolts around the top of the engine, making sure the gearbox didn't completely rest on the manifolds, getting the slave cylinder out of the bellhousing (hammer and centre punch for the bolts, then a 'press' arrangement using a trolley jack to push the slave out!), getting the gearbox aligned and back on (even with the wife with her foot on the clutch pedal) and finally hanging the exhaust back box on the two hooks!

Those were the times I wish I hadn't started, especially as when I had done it I ended up with a slipping clutch because the valve in the end of the new Master Cylinder I bought was faulty and was somehow pressurising the system!

I can look back and laugh though and enjoy the satisfaction that I did it and 8k miles later all is well!

[esso]

WIL35 said:

esso said:

Take your time and if you lose your rag with it(you will!) go & have a cup of tea!I had to do mine twice because the first time i was supplied the incorrect slave-cylinder!(if you need any more advice P.M. me and i will call you)

It must be so much easier the second time!

I did mine last year and I found the hardest parts were; the gearbox and bellhousing bolts around the top of the engine, making sure the gearbox didn't completely rest on the manifolds, getting the slave cylinder out of the bellhousing (hammer and centre punch for the bolts, then a 'press' arrangement using a trolley jack to push the slave out!), getting the gearbox aligned and back on (even with the wife with her foot on the clutch pedal) and finally hanging the exhaust back box on the two hooks!

Those were the times I wish I hadn't started, especially as when I had done it I ended up with a slipping clutch because the valve in the end of the new Master Cylinder I bought was faulty and was somehow pressurising the system!

I can look back and laugh though and enjoy the satisfaction that I did it and 8k miles later all is well!

Similar story to me,my clutch slipped because the slave cylinder piston was 5m/m too long.To fit the new one i put it in the freezer and put the bellhousing in the oven-it just dropped in!Also i had to get two of the slave cylinder bolts machined out as they wouldn`t come out even with an impact driver. Did it in half the time the second time!

Edited by esso on Monday 9th February 17:14

[cupra20v.t]

my box if off the car and off the engine. do i need to remove the bell housing to see the slave? how is the slave held in?

im not sure if its my slave, it could be my master cylinder? no fluid is in the bell housing or around or on the clutch. when I was driving I would hover my foot over the clutch, sometimes rest my foot on the clutch ever so slightly (i know its a bad habit), now and again i felt the clutch pedal slowly start to sink but it would not depress the clutch. when i noticed this i just pumpmed the clutch once and it was back to normal. so i guess fluid is passing a seal somewhere but is it on the master cyl or slave? i have not lost any fluid the reservoir remians at a similar level

Edited by cupra20v.t on Monday 9th February 21:50

[esso]

cupra20v.t said:

my box if off the car and off the engine. do i need to remove the bell housing to see the slave? how is the slave held in?

im not sure if its my slave, it could be my master cylinder? no fluid is in the bell housing or around or on the clutch. when I was driving I would hover my foot over the clutch, sometimes rest my foot on the clutch ever so slightly (i know its a bad habit), now and again i felt the clutch pedal slowly start to sink but it would not depress the clutch. when i noticed this i just pumpmed the clutch once and it was back to normal. so i guess fluid is passing a seal somewhere but is it on the master cyl or slave? i have not lost any fluid the reservoir remians at a similar level

Edited by cupra20v.t on Monday 9th February 21:50

Did you notice any fluid under the car before removing engine & box?if so its the slave thats leaking,or if you have fluid in the drivers side footwell its the master.If you have split the gearbox off the bellhousing you can see the back of the slave cylinder in the bellhousing held in by 4 small countersunk screws which are bds to get out,you need to impact drive them out.While you have the car in bits you might aswell replace the clutch & slave cylinder.

[cupra20v.t]

the clutch is an ap racing unit, i dont know how long its been in there (it does say in the history but i cant remember)but it felt fine when driving, i just think i was passing fluid past a seal.

there is no fluid in the footwell or under the car and the level in the reservoir never dropped at all (as i guess it would with a leaking clutch slave or master cylinder.)

I never had a problem with the clutch operating and it never stuck or gave me a problem engaging gears (bar 2nd but thats synchro woes) I think fuild is passing an 'o' ring on one of the cylinders and when i depress the pedal the fluid passes back onto the correct side of the o ring. i just have to work out on what cylinder i have the problem.

is the master easy enough to remove and inspect?