Bonnet locking issue...
Bonnet locking issue...
Author
Discussion

Phil_Edge

Original Poster:

958 posts

236 months

Monday 2nd February 2009
quotequote all
Does anyone know how the internals of the bonnet knob work???

For some reason I can't fathom, it seems to have decided to start sticking. The mechanics appear fairly straight forward, with the aluminium knob inside turning the plate under the bonnet with the long arms attached, which push out to lock the bonnet down. Simple. But, for some reason the aluminium twisty-knob-gadget doesn't perform it's main function - the twisty bit cry

I've been poking around, and without stripping down further than I'm comfortable (the car I mean laugh) then I can't for the life of me see what's going on, or whats gone wrong!?

Is there more to the (internal?) workings of the twisty-knob-gadget? Some levering? Gears? Cogs?

Heading in for a service at the weekend (pending a snowplough) so will ask Austec to look at it if I must, but I'd have thought it something to resolve on the driveway - fingers crossed.

Not found anything in the archives on here... so look forward to hearing from anyone who's taken one apart, or resolved a similar problem???

Phil.laugh

Storer

5,024 posts

245 months

Monday 2nd February 2009
quotequote all
No internal workings as far as I know. Has it "over-centered" and locked itself.

You should be able to tell if this has happened as the plastic parts that pin into the bonnet will stop the bonnet from sitting down in their keep.

Gently ease the mechanism back(where it all couples together), preferably with someone turning the knob anticlockwise at the same time.

SimonKD

1,387 posts

261 months

Monday 2nd February 2009
quotequote all
Hi Phil

It's a simple fix but a swine to get at. It involves being upside down in the drivers footwell with your head down by the pedals. The aluminium handwheel passes through a collar. This collar has a tapped hole in it at 90 degrees to the handwheel shaft. In this tapped hole sit a grubscrew, a small spring and a ball bearing. The spring pushes the ball bearing into slots on the handwheel shaft when it is fully clockwise or anticlockwise and the bonnet catches are fully in or fully out. Slacken the grubscrew to take some pressure off the spring as it sometimes can jam in the slot. You may end up removing the grubscrew, spring and bearing altogether in order to apply grease to the bearing. With this lot removes make sure you have full travel with the bonnet rods moving fully in and out as the handle is turned. Now the hardest bit. Put the bearing, spring and grubscrew back in slowly tightening the grubscrew whilst trying the handwheel. Too loose and the handwheel will turn and bonnet will open when driving, too tight you will get it jammed again trying to undo the bonnet. You'll need a 5mm Allen Key and it's the recessed grubscrew you're after not the caphead screw that sticks out of the handwheel shaft.

Best of luck
Simon


Edited by SimonKD on Monday 2nd February 18:02

Phil_Edge

Original Poster:

958 posts

236 months

Monday 2nd February 2009
quotequote all
Just for the record: Tried the "easing from the other side" with help of someone wiggling the knob, but didn't resolve, so hasn't "over rotated" and locked itself.

The grub screw sounds like the problem... makes perfect sense with a bit of wear, that it might stick.

Hmmm... being 6'5" will make it interesting! paperbag

Awesome bit of knowledge though! Thanks!

SimonKD

1,387 posts

261 months

Monday 2nd February 2009
quotequote all
You may want to start by reclining the drivers seat fully!

Happy Days
Simon

Mr.Cerbera

5,151 posts

260 months

Thursday 12th February 2009
quotequote all
SimonKD said:
Hi Phil

It's a simple fix but a swine to get at. It involves being upside down in the drivers footwell with your head down by the pedals. The aluminium handwheel passes through a collar. This collar has a tapped hole in it at 90 degrees to the handwheel shaft. In this tapped hole sit a grubscrew, a small spring and a ball bearing. The spring pushes the ball bearing into slots on the handwheel shaft when it is fully clockwise or anticlockwise and the bonnet catches are fully in or fully out. Slacken the grubscrew to take some pressure off the spring as it sometimes can jam in the slot. You may end up removing the grubscrew, spring and bearing altogether in order to apply grease to the bearing. With this lot removes make sure you have full travel with the bonnet rods moving fully in and out as the handle is turned. Now the hardest bit. Put the bearing, spring and grubscrew back in slowly tightening the grubscrew whilst trying the handwheel. Too loose and the handwheel will turn and bonnet will open when driving, too tight you will get it jammed again trying to undo the bonnet. You'll need a 5mm Allen Key and it's the recessed grubscrew you're after not the caphead screw that sticks out of the handwheel shaft.

Best of luck
Simon
Simon, that was a brill' description. I have been suffering the same problem when 'fully open' but thanks to your post I will attempt to sort the problem out when my back is out of traction smile

Thanks !