Looking at an XJR at the weekend
Discussion
I'm going to look at an XJR at the weekend, its a 2003 car with above average miles, over 100K.
What should I be looking for and listening for on the test drive / viewing?
Any must have's in the service books I need to look for such as recalls, replaced parts etc?
Cheers
Also is 30 too young to buy one of these?
What should I be looking for and listening for on the test drive / viewing?
Any must have's in the service books I need to look for such as recalls, replaced parts etc?
Cheers
Also is 30 too young to buy one of these?
this is the new x350 shape?
i test drove a couple, very nice to drive. the alu body really helps it in the corners making it feel light and agile.
check for :
drives true and straight,
no wheel wobble at 70/80mph (for the larger alloys)
check for alu bubbling on the arches and c piller. in fact check over the car carefully for bubbling
make sure the auto changes smoothly up and down the gears especially when coming to a stop.
try and drive the car from cold to make sure the air suspension works ok and brings up no error codes.
.
HTH
NST
i test drove a couple, very nice to drive. the alu body really helps it in the corners making it feel light and agile.
check for :
drives true and straight,
no wheel wobble at 70/80mph (for the larger alloys)
check for alu bubbling on the arches and c piller. in fact check over the car carefully for bubbling
make sure the auto changes smoothly up and down the gears especially when coming to a stop.
try and drive the car from cold to make sure the air suspension works ok and brings up no error codes.
.
HTH
NST
X350 (aluminium body) or late registered X308 (steel body)?
If it's a X308 then Broadbeans post is essential reading.
can sombody sticky/save/link this please - it's too important to loose - I'd do it myself but havn't got a clue how too. Thanks 
Apart from the usual careful look round and check of service history you'll need to be aware that the secondary timing chain tensioners on the 308 can fail without warning and must be replaced with the latest design metal bodied type asap. This will cost about £400 all in at a Jaguar indy, and there have been some cases of serious body corrosion behind the front shockabsorbers where the subframe V mount joins the body.
It's also essential to change the oil in the "sealed for life" diff and gearbox. A XJR 308 will have the more robust MB gearbox which is easier to service than the ZF fitted to the n/a cars.
An XJR will have been bought to be driven hard. Provided it's been treated with care and really well maintained a high mileage example should be ok. But buy with care - real care - and you'll need to be have deep pockets to run it. A hard driven XJR will use more fuel than than the last Gulf war and you'll soon be on first name terms with your local tyre fitters too.
If it's a X308 then Broadbeans post is essential reading.
can sombody sticky/save/link this please - it's too important to loose - I'd do it myself but havn't got a clue how too. Thanks Apart from the usual careful look round and check of service history you'll need to be aware that the secondary timing chain tensioners on the 308 can fail without warning and must be replaced with the latest design metal bodied type asap. This will cost about £400 all in at a Jaguar indy, and there have been some cases of serious body corrosion behind the front shockabsorbers where the subframe V mount joins the body.
It's also essential to change the oil in the "sealed for life" diff and gearbox. A XJR 308 will have the more robust MB gearbox which is easier to service than the ZF fitted to the n/a cars.
An XJR will have been bought to be driven hard. Provided it's been treated with care and really well maintained a high mileage example should be ok. But buy with care - real care - and you'll need to be have deep pockets to run it. A hard driven XJR will use more fuel than than the last Gulf war and you'll soon be on first name terms with your local tyre fitters too.
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