Headlamp pod problem (again?)
Discussion
Just got my 400SE home and the O/S headlamp is now sulking in its pod (not good in this weather it did work but the drive back from it's previous owner seems to have killed it off.
So my first thought was the motor itself, I've now raised the pod by hand and expected it to stay there but it had other ideas and went back into sulk mode as soon as I switched the lights off ( which in some ways is good )
So that proves the motor and pod relay are OK, am I right in thinking that this has to be a problem with the limit switches inside the pod motor, if the lowered switch is mullered will this stop the pod raising ?
So my first thought was the motor itself, I've now raised the pod by hand and expected it to stay there but it had other ideas and went back into sulk mode as soon as I switched the lights off ( which in some ways is good )
So that proves the motor and pod relay are OK, am I right in thinking that this has to be a problem with the limit switches inside the pod motor, if the lowered switch is mullered will this stop the pod raising ?
Mine did the same,one pod would refuse to lower and if by magic would lower a minute or so after switching the lights off.
I cured this by cleaning the pod motor connectors with some emery cloth and wd40,also check the pod can move freely -should be a felt washer either side of the pivot bolt.
Finaly blast everything with plusgas/wd40
I cured this by cleaning the pod motor connectors with some emery cloth and wd40,also check the pod can move freely -should be a felt washer either side of the pivot bolt.
Finaly blast everything with plusgas/wd40
Think Mines suffering from the same randomness, just collected my daughter and explained about the pod problem, then the bugger popped up...
Maybe that side needs a little time to get it's act together.
If it ever stops raining (Our Snow's gone) I'll have a look at the wiring on Saturday.
Maybe that side needs a little time to get it's act together.
If it ever stops raining (Our Snow's gone) I'll have a look at the wiring on Saturday.
At least they move!
I think that I have just given up on mu headlight motors all together and now I am looking to replace the set up with a universal adjustable length power window motor. The motors and the lights will be on separate switches, but I will not have to be a rocket scientist to fix them if they ever go bad. It should also take 10lbs out of the car.
I think that I have just given up on mu headlight motors all together and now I am looking to replace the set up with a universal adjustable length power window motor. The motors and the lights will be on separate switches, but I will not have to be a rocket scientist to fix them if they ever go bad. It should also take 10lbs out of the car.
According the wedgepages and bible the lights should stay down until either the main beam or dip beam are on, mine (OK one of mine 
) appears once the sidelights are on which seems odd as the sidelights are separate and visible with the light pubs retracted (or Sulking)
Anyone know how they should be wired on a 400SE ?
Sorry Andy, I'm not taking Pi$$ cos mine mostly work... honest
) appears once the sidelights are on which seems odd as the sidelights are separate and visible with the light pubs retracted (or Sulking)Anyone know how they should be wired on a 400SE ?
Sorry Andy, I'm not taking Pi$$ cos mine mostly work... honest
Edited by B@man on Thursday 5th February 19:06
Hey there Simon.. I see you are having fun with the lights!!
The pods will come up with sidelights... All other 5 wedges I've had were the same....
See what i mean though about it just popping up a little while later. It never fails to pop up, you sometimes just have to wait for between a couple of seconds to a couple of minutes.
The pod movement is fine though, i checked it out when i had the light out last month to refit the lamp unit.
The pods will come up with sidelights... All other 5 wedges I've had were the same....
See what i mean though about it just popping up a little while later. It never fails to pop up, you sometimes just have to wait for between a couple of seconds to a couple of minutes.
The pod movement is fine though, i checked it out when i had the light out last month to refit the lamp unit.
Hi Tony,
Thanks for the info, I guess I'm just too impatient - It must be a iffy connection somewhere as as you know sometimes its fine, the speedbump down our street seems to help....
The wiring must have changed to get rid of the two diodes used on the earlier cars as I'm sure our RO's MK1 350i has the pod's down with the side lights on, maybe TVR changed it to stop the pod's vanishing between dip & main
I ordered a second key for the imobiliser today, well first I bought a complete new cat 2 imobiliser but that was out of stock so once I got the money refunded I had a poke about and found a website that sells the same type and the spare key's - sorted !
Any idea what the little black key is for ?
Or is it non car related.....
Thanks for the info, I guess I'm just too impatient - It must be a iffy connection somewhere as as you know sometimes its fine, the speedbump down our street seems to help....
The wiring must have changed to get rid of the two diodes used on the earlier cars as I'm sure our RO's MK1 350i has the pod's down with the side lights on, maybe TVR changed it to stop the pod's vanishing between dip & main
I ordered a second key for the imobiliser today, well first I bought a complete new cat 2 imobiliser but that was out of stock so once I got the money refunded I had a poke about and found a website that sells the same type and the spare key's - sorted !
Any idea what the little black key is for ?
Or is it non car related.....
That small black key would have been to turn the alarm unit on and off if it were still fitted. As the alarm has been removed its useless.
All of my previous wedges were later models so the phase 1 cars may have been different. I'm sure every later car though does the same as this one.
All of my previous wedges were later models so the phase 1 cars may have been different. I'm sure every later car though does the same as this one.
I had the same problem with my 350i. The plate which holds the motor brushes had cracked and the brushes had worn quickly and at funny angles, and would snag on the motor commutator. Hit a bump and it would suddenly free and pop up. Fixed it with a replacement from these guys http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod_wipers.html and its been perfect since.
Hi Paul,
I'd found those too and after a bit of research on wedgeneering I thought they'd do the job with the slow speed brush removed, I may order a pair and keep them till it's a bit warmer outside (OK I'm a northerner but laying on wet cold concrete is not my idea of fun, I'd much rather be in a nice warm pub...)
Thanks for the confirmation that they fit !!
I'd found those too and after a bit of research on wedgeneering I thought they'd do the job with the slow speed brush removed, I may order a pair and keep them till it's a bit warmer outside (OK I'm a northerner but laying on wet cold concrete is not my idea of fun, I'd much rather be in a nice warm pub...)
Thanks for the confirmation that they fit !!
Yep, I'd go with the motor switches BUT it could also be a corroded/loose/otherwise intermittent connector to the pod motor - more likely one of the single bullets than the 3-pin but anything's possible!
As for pods up or down on sidelights only: it wasn't anything to do with the pods disappearing betweeen dip and main as the circuit doesn't have time to respond that quickly as you change from one to the other (unless your column switch is also dodgy).
It's possible that the response time for getting the pods up when 'flashing' the main beams was deemed too slow or, perhaps more likely, the 'dim-dip' legislation that came in about '89 would have demanded that the lights be up with the dip beams partly lit. I would imagine that most cars have had the dim-dip module removed or bypassed (although IIRC the MOT regs still require the facility to work if fitted, just don't mention it to your tester).
Interestingly, Triumph rectified the flash issue on the TR7 by fitting a Pektron timer module that popped the pods up, lit the beams for a few seconds then dropped the pods, so if the driver was a bit quick on the flash switch, a definite signal was still given. TVR evidently didn't think it was worth incorporating the mod
As Andy (tr7andtvr) mentions, one mod that might be worthwhile researching is linking the pods together and using a single pod motor. After all, Porsche managed it on the 924/44/28 etc. and IIRC Mazda used only one on the MX5 so a meaty enough motor must be out there somewhere... Triumph defaulted to Lucas because that's the only supplier they had, and Lucas used what they had lying around (the E-type Jag wiper motor)... the rest is history
As for pods up or down on sidelights only: it wasn't anything to do with the pods disappearing betweeen dip and main as the circuit doesn't have time to respond that quickly as you change from one to the other (unless your column switch is also dodgy).
It's possible that the response time for getting the pods up when 'flashing' the main beams was deemed too slow or, perhaps more likely, the 'dim-dip' legislation that came in about '89 would have demanded that the lights be up with the dip beams partly lit. I would imagine that most cars have had the dim-dip module removed or bypassed (although IIRC the MOT regs still require the facility to work if fitted, just don't mention it to your tester
).Interestingly, Triumph rectified the flash issue on the TR7 by fitting a Pektron timer module that popped the pods up, lit the beams for a few seconds then dropped the pods, so if the driver was a bit quick on the flash switch, a definite signal was still given. TVR evidently didn't think it was worth incorporating the mod
As Andy (tr7andtvr) mentions, one mod that might be worthwhile researching is linking the pods together and using a single pod motor. After all, Porsche managed it on the 924/44/28 etc. and IIRC Mazda used only one on the MX5 so a meaty enough motor must be out there somewhere... Triumph defaulted to Lucas because that's the only supplier they had, and Lucas used what they had lying around (the E-type Jag wiper motor)... the rest is history
Cheers Ian,
As it's not raining (yet) I'll have a poke about in the wiring today, if the motor is coming off I may as well replace the brush plate assembly and check the contact strip, that may have to wait for a few weeks due to other oily commitments...
On the headlamp motor operation I'd also thought about the DIM DIP legislation, couldn't remember when it came in but whenever it was it didn't last too long, I know some of the cheap after market DIM DIP modules caught fire & I suspect some of the OEM units where not a lot better but they maybe just stopped working..
Having one pod motor is an interesting concept, as that would get rid of a lot of complexity which probably explains why most modern cars have dispensed with the second motor.
Anyhow my daughter thinks it's funny "dad's cars winking again"
As it's not raining (yet) I'll have a poke about in the wiring today, if the motor is coming off I may as well replace the brush plate assembly and check the contact strip, that may have to wait for a few weeks due to other oily commitments...
On the headlamp motor operation I'd also thought about the DIM DIP legislation, couldn't remember when it came in but whenever it was it didn't last too long, I know some of the cheap after market DIM DIP modules caught fire & I suspect some of the OEM units where not a lot better but they maybe just stopped working..
Having one pod motor is an interesting concept, as that would get rid of a lot of complexity which probably explains why most modern cars have dispensed with the second motor.
Anyhow my daughter thinks it's funny "dad's cars winking again"
Edited by B@man on Saturday 7th February 09:28
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