1998 Impreza Turbo problem
Discussion
Hello, I don't frequent Jap Chat as I don't own a Japanese car, my brother however does a 1998 Impreza 2000 Turbo. He has recently started getting a quite serious problem.
A month ago he crashed it through a fence (no big deal only a bit of cosmetic damage and a few broken lights) with that repaired it was all fine and dandy. Last week it needed a clutch and flywheel that has been done. It now has a problem where after stopping at traffic lights etc the revs die and the engine either stalls or it splutters for a short period and occasionally recovers.
A bit more Info: The car is an import, he is running it on the required super unleaded (V-Power). It has an aftermarket 6" straight through exhaust and a de-cat, a Blitz air filter assembly and HKS Blowoff Valve. As far as he is aware the engine has not been re-mapped.
Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this problem.
Thanks
Matt
A month ago he crashed it through a fence (no big deal only a bit of cosmetic damage and a few broken lights) with that repaired it was all fine and dandy. Last week it needed a clutch and flywheel that has been done. It now has a problem where after stopping at traffic lights etc the revs die and the engine either stalls or it splutters for a short period and occasionally recovers.
A bit more Info: The car is an import, he is running it on the required super unleaded (V-Power). It has an aftermarket 6" straight through exhaust and a de-cat, a Blitz air filter assembly and HKS Blowoff Valve. As far as he is aware the engine has not been re-mapped.
Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this problem.
Thanks
Matt
hello have you tried plugging in the two wires under the stearing column (black connectors) to get the ecu to do a diagnostic on any engine sensors if there is a fault the check engine light will flash a code which gives you a starting point
ECU Diagnostic Codes
How To Read
* Turn ignition OFF
* Connect read memory connectors (jumper 5) [black connectors]
* Turn ignition on (Engine OFF)
* Engine check lamp turns on
* Code is indicated by Pulsing lamp
* If Code is OK then turn ignition OFF & disconnect Connectors
* Check ECU Code
* Turn ignition OFF & disconnect Connectors
* If there is a fault check appropriate sensor
Reading ECU Codes
The ECU codes are displayed as pulses of the Check Engine Light.
If Check Engine Light goes out there is no fault.
In Diagnostic Mode - No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset).
The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds).
The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and
then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed.
(See Example Below)
--- CODE EXAMPLE, SINGLE CODE ---
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10....for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 23)
(Code 23 -- MAF Sensor)
--- CODE EXAMPLE, MULTIPLE CODE ---
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10....for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 23)
1.8 second pause (this means NEW code)
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 11)
0.2 second pause
.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 12)
(Codes 23 and 12, MAF Sensor and Starter Circuit)
however it sounds a bit like your idle control valve my be worn (i have anti lag on mine and when you use it forces the idle control valve off its seats which causes a rough idle, a worn valve spring/seat would also mess up the idle and if very worn would cause it to stall) the ecu may not flash this up as it is a mechanical problem and not electrical, if there is no fault codes and the valve is ok i would check for any vacuum pipes that have been knocked off when the clutch was done.
ECU Diagnostic Codes
How To Read
* Turn ignition OFF
* Connect read memory connectors (jumper 5) [black connectors]
* Turn ignition on (Engine OFF)
* Engine check lamp turns on
* Code is indicated by Pulsing lamp
* If Code is OK then turn ignition OFF & disconnect Connectors
* Check ECU Code
* Turn ignition OFF & disconnect Connectors
* If there is a fault check appropriate sensor
Reading ECU Codes
The ECU codes are displayed as pulses of the Check Engine Light.
If Check Engine Light goes out there is no fault.
In Diagnostic Mode - No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset).
The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds).
The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and
then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed.
(See Example Below)
--- CODE EXAMPLE, SINGLE CODE ---
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10....for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 23)
(Code 23 -- MAF Sensor)
--- CODE EXAMPLE, MULTIPLE CODE ---
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10....for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 23)
1.8 second pause (this means NEW code)
1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 11)
0.2 second pause
.2 second pulse (1.....for a total of 12)
(Codes 23 and 12, MAF Sensor and Starter Circuit)
however it sounds a bit like your idle control valve my be worn (i have anti lag on mine and when you use it forces the idle control valve off its seats which causes a rough idle, a worn valve spring/seat would also mess up the idle and if very worn would cause it to stall) the ecu may not flash this up as it is a mechanical problem and not electrical, if there is no fault codes and the valve is ok i would check for any vacuum pipes that have been knocked off when the clutch was done.
matmoxon said:
A bit more Info: The car is an import, he is running it on the required super unleaded (V-Power). It has an aftermarket 6" straight through exhaust and a de-cat, a Blitz air filter assembly and HKS Blowoff Valve. As far as he is aware the engine has not been re-mapped.
I'd probably go with most of the other posters so far and suggest the ICV. However I wanted to point out that if he is running an non-remapped import with those mods it won't be doing it any good!Checking the fault codes, is the best advice you have had.
1998, was the year that the cars changed their engines and the August onward cars, the ones with the dump valve bolted to the intercooler), had a weaker maf sensor, which gives all the symptons you have stated, when it fails.
Another thing to check is the engine connector multiplug which may have been disturbed when he had his cosmetic damage repaired.
1998, was the year that the cars changed their engines and the August onward cars, the ones with the dump valve bolted to the intercooler), had a weaker maf sensor, which gives all the symptons you have stated, when it fails.
Another thing to check is the engine connector multiplug which may have been disturbed when he had his cosmetic damage repaired.
allsop83 said:
6" ?????? Are you for real??? Lol
Can only echo the above really but I'd definately be looking to get it re-mapped. Ecutek can map a 1998 ECU and with the huge thru exhaust and air filter it will need mapping to give it optimum benefit of the mods.
Nope, it was a typo should be 3" Can only echo the above really but I'd definately be looking to get it re-mapped. Ecutek can map a 1998 ECU and with the huge thru exhaust and air filter it will need mapping to give it optimum benefit of the mods.
Thanks for the advice, much appreciated, next time he gets a chance I'll print this lot off and he can have a look at it.
I'll report back on it when he's had a look.
Matt
Edited by matmoxon on Friday 13th February 18:01
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