Discussion
My 1998 K series elise has suddenly got a nasty rattling noise from the cylinder head area, most probably broken valve spring, firstly, would this have caused damage to valves?, secondly, is there anything else that could cause such a rattle in this area, it runs roughly at present at the moment as well and thirdly, how easy/ difficult is it to remove and reinstate the head?
noblesparky said:
My 1998 K series elise has suddenly got a nasty rattling noise from the cylinder head area, most probably broken valve spring, firstly, would this have caused damage to valves?, secondly, is there anything else that could cause such a rattle in this area, it runs roughly at present at the moment as well and thirdly, how easy/ difficult is it to remove and reinstate the head?
You need to get it looked at and quick dont run it if its really rough because you risk causing even more damage if its something serious..Check the exhaust heat shield for rattles too... The bolts can corrode causing a rattle in that area.
Head off isn't too bad, as long as you have good access to the underside of the car. You'll need to get the bottom crankshaft pulley off & that's a bugger (you'll need a cut down 22mm socket for this).
Budget for 2 days if you've not done the elise before....
Head off isn't too bad, as long as you have good access to the underside of the car. You'll need to get the bottom crankshaft pulley off & that's a bugger (you'll need a cut down 22mm socket for this).
Budget for 2 days if you've not done the elise before....
Edited by sweegie on Friday 13th February 18:33
When I've got the head off I always change the timing belt, so you'll need the bottom pulley off for that. As its a bit of a pig to do it makes sense to tick it off the list while you're in there....
Its possible to remove the head without doing the bottom pulley, but there's no way of checking the timing mark on the crank drive gear lines up with the cam drive gears.... I always pop the plugs out now and give it 2 full rotations of the crank to check everything is aligned and the tensioner is set correctly. That way if you are out, you dont mistake cylinder compression for a valve hit
Its possible to remove the head without doing the bottom pulley, but there's no way of checking the timing mark on the crank drive gear lines up with the cam drive gears.... I always pop the plugs out now and give it 2 full rotations of the crank to check everything is aligned and the tensioner is set correctly. That way if you are out, you dont mistake cylinder compression for a valve hit
Theres a mark on the crank damper that lines up with the outer cover when the cams are locked in place, you don't need to take it off.
If your belt doesn't need changing, then it doesn't need changing - they're what, £60? Thats too much money to change 'just for the sake of it' in my opinion.
If your belt doesn't need changing, then it doesn't need changing - they're what, £60? Thats too much money to change 'just for the sake of it' in my opinion.
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