Ditching the carbon canister.
Ditching the carbon canister.
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Discussion

steve-V8s

Original Poster:

2,924 posts

278 months

Sunday 15th February 2009
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If you disconnect the carbon canister and valve arrangement what is the normal solution to allow the tank to breath. It seems to me that if there is going to be effectively an open pipe to the tank it would be better that it is in free air somewhere rather than under the bonnet or in the boot. One possibility seems to be remove the hose all the way back to the tank, cap it off and fit a fuel cap with a breather hole in it, although the MOT man seems to be surprisingly interested in the inside of the fuel cap so perhaps that is not a good idea. Presumably the tank only needs to breath in as the fuel goes out so how about a simple non return valve on the existing pipe, that way fumes will not escape and the end could be anywhere. What have you lot done ?

Johno

8,593 posts

312 months

Sunday 15th February 2009
quotequote all
I kept my carbon cannister and run it through the Emerald without any issues. I have mine set to vent over 3k rpm, I posted up instructions on how to set up on here a while ago . . . Do a search and it should turn up smile

If you're not running Emerald then that won't help of course hehe

Other's have gone to the old S style route where the tan just vents to atmosphere.

GreenV8S

31,018 posts

314 months

Sunday 15th February 2009
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The far side of the carbon cannister should be vented to fresh air anyway. Disconnecting the purge valve won't prevent the tank from venting, it will just prevent the carbon cannister from being purged by pulling air through it.

450Nick

4,027 posts

242 months

Sunday 15th February 2009
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As Johno said, you can stay with it without too much problem or bin it. I binned it when I put my Emerald in as I felt it wasn't needed. All I did is pull the vent hose off the plenum and blocked the hole with a sensor plug, then disconnected and removed the canister (you need to remove the rad to do this). The only pipe you need to retain is the one going from the tank to the CC. There is already a one way valve in the system so you can vent to air without any problem. I just ran the pipe under the radiator, drilled a hole in the underside of the nose so the pipe can just squeeze though, venting in the nearside next to where the front splitter would go. This is apparently what the Tuscan's do according to a TVR garage and I've had no problems with this setup. One less thing to go wrong smile

steve-V8s

Original Poster:

2,924 posts

278 months

Monday 16th February 2009
quotequote all
Thank you for the replies. The TVR part of PH is such a fantastic resource, I have posted questions in the Ford, BMW and Audi sections in the past and got no reply. I guess they just use the cars where we enjoy them.

Any chance of posting a link to the previous post Johno about both this and the loom, I had a quick search but without any hits.

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Monday 16th February 2009
quotequote all
I don't get this one way valve thing?

Main job of the cc is to allow air into the tank as the fuel goes down. Why would you need a filter if there is a one way valve - & how would the fumes / petrol get to the carbon element?????

The CC also seems to prevent water entering the pipes / tank, via humidity / condensation as I understand it. I would take some consideration of that if you want longevity & reliability?


Johno

8,593 posts

312 months

Monday 16th February 2009
quotequote all
CC set up

Front loom

As an aside, if you're having a custom loom made the man to do it is Paul Dove. Absolutely superb work, great guy and was happy to work with me on having some additions and changes made in the original design to accomodate shift lights, fan tell tales, two stage cooling with the wiring completed in the footwell rather than additional wiring to the front of the car. I also wired the wideband through the passenger wing using the same route as the front loom as it was much neater.

Paul has all this detailed and can reproduce for you or add other stuff in EGT sensor and other sensors you may want.

Fester has had a few other's put into his, so would be worth chatting too. Personally I wouldn't go for an LC-1 wideband, mine is permanently wrong and was a waste of money given I've now gotta get a different one that actuly works to run adaptive mapping.

hiltonig

3,153 posts

238 months

Tuesday 17th February 2009
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Johno said:
I kept my carbon cannister and run it through the Emerald without any issues. I have mine set to vent over 3k rpm, I posted up instructions on how to set up on here a while ago . . . Do a search and it should turn up smile

If you're not running Emerald then that won't help of course hehe

Other's have gone to the old S style route where the tan just vents to atmosphere.
Hmmm this has got me thinking, I had paul dove do the install and loom for my Emerald, where is the carbon canister located ?, also I wonder if it is wired up ??, can you remember the pin out that you used ? oh yes i bought 2 lc1 widebands, now removing them for a dynojet unit

Edited by hiltonig on Tuesday 17th February 17:45


Edited by hiltonig on Tuesday 17th February 19:05

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Tuesday 17th February 2009
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Johno said:
..to vent over 3k rpm..
Just need to upsize the pipes & that qualifies an excellent induction mod Johnno. Who needs bigger throttles ? rofl

Johno

8,593 posts

312 months

Tuesday 17th February 2009
quotequote all
spend said:
Johno said:
..to vent over 3k rpm..
Just need to upsize the pipes & that qualifies an excellent induction mod Johnno. Who needs bigger throttles ? rofl
Already have, the vent pipe is now a 4" scoop in the bonnet, ram air above 3k rpm.

I'll sell the kits on the bay soon hehe