carb spacer blocks
carb spacer blocks
Author
Discussion

robminiman

Original Poster:

230 posts

206 months

Monday 23rd February 2009
quotequote all
as title says the one between the carb and manifold, how inportant is it as at current my air filter and the carb jet are almost touching the bulk heads as 1 or 2mm gap very tight. so is there any diffrence in manifolds between manafactures, can i just remove the space or do i cut the top steady bar and make it 1/4inch longer. just another thought would it be an idea to put the spacer threw the head planer and half its thickness to give more clearance posaberly.

any thoughts please

Skyedriver

21,967 posts

303 months

Monday 23rd February 2009
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Discovered this when I swapped my MG Metro manifold for a minispares one which flows better, as I understand.
Dumped the spacer but kept the steel plate wih the heat shield and cable clamp.
Have only run it for a few minutes so cannot confirm it's ok but seems to be.

Cooperman

4,428 posts

271 months

Tuesday 24th February 2009
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The spacer is not vital, just make sure that the hols in the manifold line up with the carb holes accurately to ensure optimum gas flow. Some manifolds can be a different length from others. Just engineer it all to fit and to flow nicely and you'll be fine. I do remember thaton some rally cars the float chambers hit the bulkhead due to too thick a spacer when larger carbs were fitted, which did nothing for reliability!

Skyedriver

21,967 posts

303 months

Tuesday 24th February 2009
quotequote all
Just remembered I also used a bulkead position adjuster.
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Big hammer.

robminiman

Original Poster:

230 posts

206 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
Skyedriver said:
Just remembered I also used a bulkead position adjuster.
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Big hammer.
didnt really want to do that but needs must so that will be the last resort

cone

471 posts

256 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
Also , one thing to watch if you go down the "making the engine steady longer" route, is it could effect your gearchange making it want to pull out of 2nd / 4th gears.

Skyedriver

21,967 posts

303 months

Wednesday 25th February 2009
quotequote all
robminiman said:
Skyedriver said:
Just remembered I also used a bulkead position adjuster.
.
.
.
.
.
Big hammer.
didnt really want to do that but needs must so that will be the last resort
Only a gentle TAP honest.
Get a 2 foot bit of wood, 2"x2" or 2"x1" is ideal but not critical. Mark where the bottom of the carb/float is likely to hit, (remove carb and manifold) place end of wood at this position, hit other end with big hammer.
You can dent the bulkhead in about 10 mm or so without it being noticible once the carb and air filter are in place.
A Precision Engineer: a person with different size hammers for different jobs.