Whats the difference between 4L and 5L????
Discussion
No, not about a 1000cc!
The bores are the same on a Rover based V8, so the crank throw must increase the stroke and therefore the displacement. Airflow is obviously regulated differently/different injectors, but is that fundamentally all?
In other words, a new crank and a few bit and pieces, and hey presto my 4L Chim becomes a 5L? Can't possibly be that simple, so fellow PHers, what else is involved?
The bores are the same on a Rover based V8, so the crank throw must increase the stroke and therefore the displacement. Airflow is obviously regulated differently/different injectors, but is that fundamentally all?
In other words, a new crank and a few bit and pieces, and hey presto my 4L Chim becomes a 5L? Can't possibly be that simple, so fellow PHers, what else is involved?
There are lots and lots of differences. The bores are not all the same, capacity changes are achieved through a combination of bore and stroke changes (and different builders can achieve the same capacity by different combinations). Pistons are different (I believe the 500 uses much nicer pistons which are shorter with fewer oil control rings). Heads have much bigger inlet valves and probably different volumes. Plus probably many other changes I don't know about (I'm not an engine builder).
You can get 5.0 from a crank change alone if you buy a custom pukka 90mm stroke crank. This way you can keep the stock 94mm bores so you don't need to reliner to 96mm. Whichever way you go will entail the cost of new pistons and a re-balance. You could fit a dta ecu (1k inc vat ish). FYI cost wise, a fully counter-balanced crank 1k, pistons(forged)1k ish, balancing £200 tops. Your heads will probably be ported already and may be fitted with the 43/37 valves so you could use those.
On the other hand you could bolt on a turbo or 2.
On the other hand you could bolt on a turbo or 2.
jonnyb said:
Rimmer Brothers do a "stroker kit" that can turn a 4 into a 4.8. It needs a 20 thou rebore and costs £1611 inc vat.
I thought this only fitted the older blocks and not the cross-bolted block? If it's the Real Steel jobbie it won't fit later engines as far as I'm aware, unless it's been improved. The crank main journals and rod journals are to small for the late blocks and the crank hasn't got the long nose. It is counter-balanced but not tuftrided if it's the R/S item.
VYT said:
Brakes and suspension.............
Already done.
I'm not likely to convert my 4L anyway, It's been decatted and chipped already. If anything I would fit a 'warmer' cam and solid lifters - but it's not essential.
And anyway, I have no desire to go track daying, so it's fast enough as it is
Boosted LS1 said:or just get somat that is fast
You can get 5.0 from a crank change alone if you buy a custom pukka 90mm stroke crank. This way you can keep the stock 94mm bores so you don't need to reliner to 96mm. Whichever way you go will entail the cost of new pistons and a re-balance. You could fit a dta ecu (1k inc vat ish). FYI cost wise, a fully counter-balanced crank 1k, pistons(forged)1k ish, balancing £200 tops. Your heads will probably be ported already and may be fitted with the 43/37 valves so you could use those.
On the other hand you could bolt on a turbo or 2.
tommygun said:
You can get 5.0 from a crank change alone if you buy a custom pukka 90mm stroke crank. This way you can keep the stock 94mm bores so you don't need to reliner to 96mm. Whichever way you go will entail the cost of new pistons and a re-balance. You could fit a dta ecu (1k inc vat ish). FYI cost wise, a fully counter-balanced crank 1k, pistons(forged)1k ish, balancing £200 tops. Your heads will probably be ported already and may be fitted with the 43/37 valves so you could use those.
On the other hand you could bolt on a turbo or 2.
or just get somat that is fast
Well that's the idea. There are plenty of rapid RV8's out there and some have set records which probably haven't been beaten except by huge yank stuff. The rv8 does have a fair amount of pedigree behind it even if it is getting long in the tooth now. DIY can be quite cheap.
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