Hello all, few questions...
Discussion
Hi all,
Been looking through the forum for a while now. Looking to purchase a Tuscan in a month or so, after I move house (freeing up some funds!).
I do have a few questions though, mostly mechanical.
1) About the engine shims, what happens when you get to the thinnest shim? Is it re-build time? If so how many miles till it gets that way? (assuming its driven the way its meant to be!)
2) Are there different levels of re-build, i.e. top end or full etc?
3) I’m only looking at cars that have had re-built engines. Is there anything I should be looking for within the re-build. i.e. Updated conn-rods, re-engineered top end parts. Other such stuff?
4) What’s it like to do DIY maintenance on? I can imagine it’s a bit more awkward than a bland car. To put this into perspective someone told me not to bother doing a sparkplug change on my Kawasaki ZX6-R, I did it anyway, it took me about 3 hours but was not that difficult just awkward at times.
5) Unless I’m way off with question one. I would like to have the shims checked when find the car I intend to buy. If you were selling your car and I asked if I could have this done (me footing the bill), would you allow it? On that note if you were buying a Tuscan would you bother? If not why not?
6) Are there any mods that are essential to a 2000/2001 car that should have been carried out? Been looking through the forum and found a few, but to get a good list would be good.
7) Chassis corrosion, what’s that all about!? Sounds nasty, is it that much of a problem on the Tuscan?
8) De-catted cars, I take it you have to replace the cats for MOT? So when buying a de-catted car the original bits should come with it….right?
9) Anyone know anything about this Tuscan: http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/895933.htm
Many thanks for your help in this, I’m sure I’ll have a few more questions later!
James
Been looking through the forum for a while now. Looking to purchase a Tuscan in a month or so, after I move house (freeing up some funds!).
I do have a few questions though, mostly mechanical.
1) About the engine shims, what happens when you get to the thinnest shim? Is it re-build time? If so how many miles till it gets that way? (assuming its driven the way its meant to be!)
2) Are there different levels of re-build, i.e. top end or full etc?
3) I’m only looking at cars that have had re-built engines. Is there anything I should be looking for within the re-build. i.e. Updated conn-rods, re-engineered top end parts. Other such stuff?
4) What’s it like to do DIY maintenance on? I can imagine it’s a bit more awkward than a bland car. To put this into perspective someone told me not to bother doing a sparkplug change on my Kawasaki ZX6-R, I did it anyway, it took me about 3 hours but was not that difficult just awkward at times.
5) Unless I’m way off with question one. I would like to have the shims checked when find the car I intend to buy. If you were selling your car and I asked if I could have this done (me footing the bill), would you allow it? On that note if you were buying a Tuscan would you bother? If not why not?
6) Are there any mods that are essential to a 2000/2001 car that should have been carried out? Been looking through the forum and found a few, but to get a good list would be good.
7) Chassis corrosion, what’s that all about!? Sounds nasty, is it that much of a problem on the Tuscan?
8) De-catted cars, I take it you have to replace the cats for MOT? So when buying a de-catted car the original bits should come with it….right?
9) Anyone know anything about this Tuscan: http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/895933.htm
Many thanks for your help in this, I’m sure I’ll have a few more questions later!
James
Hi James
From what I have been told, if your valve adjustment will take no more, its head re-build time, as some of the factory Valves, can, and do stretch.
The car you show, looks the D’s B’s, I would only buy a re-built one from a reputable TVR Engine specialist, if you troll through here, your quickly find out who the best people are for this type of work.
DIY is not too bad, loads of very helpful people on here, generally there will be an answer to any questions. I would however Always take your Tuscan to a TVR specialist, especially for the 12k service, and they do like a good “plug in” every 4k or so to keep then in top tune.
Chassis corrosion, have a good look underneath, if its just flaky paint on the chassis, and the metal is good, no worries, lots of rust however, leave alone.
De cats, hmmmmmm,, depends if you have a friendly MOT man!
Go and try one, if after you get out, you’re a bit shaky and wanting more, then its for you!
cheers
From what I have been told, if your valve adjustment will take no more, its head re-build time, as some of the factory Valves, can, and do stretch.
The car you show, looks the D’s B’s, I would only buy a re-built one from a reputable TVR Engine specialist, if you troll through here, your quickly find out who the best people are for this type of work.
DIY is not too bad, loads of very helpful people on here, generally there will be an answer to any questions. I would however Always take your Tuscan to a TVR specialist, especially for the 12k service, and they do like a good “plug in” every 4k or so to keep then in top tune.
Chassis corrosion, have a good look underneath, if its just flaky paint on the chassis, and the metal is good, no worries, lots of rust however, leave alone.
De cats, hmmmmmm,, depends if you have a friendly MOT man!
Go and try one, if after you get out, you’re a bit shaky and wanting more, then its for you!
cheers
jams33 said:
1) About the engine shims, what happens when you get to the thinnest shim? Is it re-build time? If so how many miles till it gets that way? (assuming its driven the way its meant to be!)
Yes........ Once you've got the thinnest shim fitted, anymore adjustment cannot be made and its Top End Rebuilt time. As the engine has to come out for this, then it's worth paying the extra couple of hundred quid to have the bores honed (And obviously checked) and re ring the pistons, and have the crank polished (That's all that's needed in most cases) and put in a new set of bearings. Also check the timing chains and tensioners, and the oil pump which you can get new internals for. Really depends on how far you want to go.
As for "How many miles till it needs this".......... It's so hard to tell, as some owners are stating their Speed Six Engines have done 40,000 miles and they've done nothing apart form service them properly. Other owners have needed a rebuilt around the 20,000 mile mark, and some early cars needed a rebuild at 10,000 miles. It's really hard to give a definative answer. Purely a case of been lucky, or being unlucky. Personally, (Purely my opinion, and not necessarily that of other owners) I'd be cautious of buying a car on it's original engine with over 25,000 on the clock, I may still buy the car.......... but I'd figure into the price that a top end rebuild might be needed soon, as this seems to be the most common mileage that people report that they need top end attention. (But this is not always the case and many engines have done alot more.........) Hard Question To give a straight answer too. On a rebuilt engine, with later parts and additional top end oil supply, I don't see any reason if treated properly that you shouldn't get 40,000 miles, which is good for a Super Car capable of 4 second 0 - 60 and 170+ mph. Not many lambo's or ferraris are capable of much more. People tend to forget that the Tuscan is in the Super Car performance league, yet expect Ford Mondeo mileages from them.
2) Are there different levels of re-build, i.e. top end or full etc?
YES : And very dependant on who rebuilt it as to their opinions of what should be upgraded/uprated.
Depending where the engine has been rebuilt, it can be anything from a standard rebuild (Using later more reliable parts (Valves, Valve Springs, Finger Followers, Cams, & later head gasket). Or it could have some additional modifications to give even better reliability..... Modifed half time bearing, Modified half time bearing with pressure fed oil supply, modified oil flow to provide better oil supply to the back of the head. As you can see, the options are endless so it's best finding out who did the rebuild and speaking with them as to what modifications/updates were made during the rebuild.
3) I’m only looking at cars that have had re-built engines. Is there anything I should be looking for within the re-build. i.e. Updated conn-rods, re-engineered top end parts. Other such stuff?
The bottom end is pretty good, so the main things you are looking for is : The top half of the engine and the front (Half time bearing upgrade/modification), oilway/supply modifications to the top end of the engine at the back, later cylinder head gasket, later finger followers, later valves and springs, and anything that increases the oil supply around the top end.
4) What’s it like to do DIY maintenance on? I can imagine it’s a bit more awkward than a bland car. To put this into perspective someone told me not to bother doing a sparkplug change on my Kawasaki ZX6-R, I did it anyway, it took me about 3 hours but was not that difficult just awkward at times.
Nothing that a good amateur mechanic can't do. It's just abit awkward in places. If you don't mind getting your hands dirty and a few bruised knuckles, then you'll do just fine.
I always think of the Tuscan as a car that is capable of being perfected, providing your willing to spend time in the garage and have a good tool kit and alot of patience. I've been doing this for the last six months, and found alot of the parts used are infact good quality (Brakes, Chassis, Transmission, Drive Train. The things that let them down are electrics and poor quality assembly and fixings(Can be sorted with not alot of money, new connections, re routing of various cables etc).......But a good amateur mechanic is easily capable of doing it. I just leave major engine work to the specialists.
5) Unless I’m way off with question one. I would like to have the shims checked when find the car I intend to buy. If you were selling your car and I asked if I could have this done (me footing the bill), would you allow it? On that note if you were buying a Tuscan would you bother? If not why not?
A person selling a genuine car should have no problem with this. If I were selling mine I would be quite happy providing you paid for it, and it was taken to somewhere reputable (TVR Specialist)
6) Are there any mods that are essential to a 2000/2001 car that should have been carried out? Been looking through the forum and found a few, but to get a good list would be good.
Err........depends how much of a perfectionist/enthusiast the previous owner or owners were. There's lots that you can do, and there are some bits which you should do.... Shock Absorbers, Battery Shielding, changing the rear fuel hose (Tank To Pump), it's positioned too close to the exhaust and needs re-routing in a safer position as the constant heat causes it to perish at an alarming rate, and some cars have been lost as a result, as have other cars been lost due to the battery sheilding problem. (Lost = Gone up in flames).
7) Chassis corrosion, what’s that all about!? Sounds nasty, is it that much of a problem on the Tuscan?
Keep it clean or waxoiled, and use the winter months to get under the car and check/clean/waxoil. I have used a small dremmel to buzz off any stone chip rust and then apply "CureRust" followed by Hammerite Grey, which is almost a perfect match with TVRs grey poweder coating. Same again though.......depends on how the previous owner looked after the car. But remember "It's easier to replace an engine than it is a chassis" ! ! ! !
8) De-catted cars, I take it you have to replace the cats for MOT? So when buying a de-catted car the original bits should come with it….right?
Depends on how friendly you are with your local MOT Garage..........But officially, yes you should replace them for the MOT.
9) Anyone know anything about this Tuscan: http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/895933.htm
I know it's been for sale for quite some time, but don't know the car. Looks like it's has money spent on it, so it could be a good buy, and bearing in mind it's been for sale for a while, there may be some margin for negotiation on the price.
Good Luck with your search, and I hope this helps.
Yes........ Once you've got the thinnest shim fitted, anymore adjustment cannot be made and its Top End Rebuilt time. As the engine has to come out for this, then it's worth paying the extra couple of hundred quid to have the bores honed (And obviously checked) and re ring the pistons, and have the crank polished (That's all that's needed in most cases) and put in a new set of bearings. Also check the timing chains and tensioners, and the oil pump which you can get new internals for. Really depends on how far you want to go.
As for "How many miles till it needs this".......... It's so hard to tell, as some owners are stating their Speed Six Engines have done 40,000 miles and they've done nothing apart form service them properly. Other owners have needed a rebuilt around the 20,000 mile mark, and some early cars needed a rebuild at 10,000 miles. It's really hard to give a definative answer. Purely a case of been lucky, or being unlucky. Personally, (Purely my opinion, and not necessarily that of other owners) I'd be cautious of buying a car on it's original engine with over 25,000 on the clock, I may still buy the car.......... but I'd figure into the price that a top end rebuild might be needed soon, as this seems to be the most common mileage that people report that they need top end attention. (But this is not always the case and many engines have done alot more.........) Hard Question To give a straight answer too. On a rebuilt engine, with later parts and additional top end oil supply, I don't see any reason if treated properly that you shouldn't get 40,000 miles, which is good for a Super Car capable of 4 second 0 - 60 and 170+ mph. Not many lambo's or ferraris are capable of much more. People tend to forget that the Tuscan is in the Super Car performance league, yet expect Ford Mondeo mileages from them.
2) Are there different levels of re-build, i.e. top end or full etc?
YES : And very dependant on who rebuilt it as to their opinions of what should be upgraded/uprated.
Depending where the engine has been rebuilt, it can be anything from a standard rebuild (Using later more reliable parts (Valves, Valve Springs, Finger Followers, Cams, & later head gasket). Or it could have some additional modifications to give even better reliability..... Modifed half time bearing, Modified half time bearing with pressure fed oil supply, modified oil flow to provide better oil supply to the back of the head. As you can see, the options are endless so it's best finding out who did the rebuild and speaking with them as to what modifications/updates were made during the rebuild.
3) I’m only looking at cars that have had re-built engines. Is there anything I should be looking for within the re-build. i.e. Updated conn-rods, re-engineered top end parts. Other such stuff?
The bottom end is pretty good, so the main things you are looking for is : The top half of the engine and the front (Half time bearing upgrade/modification), oilway/supply modifications to the top end of the engine at the back, later cylinder head gasket, later finger followers, later valves and springs, and anything that increases the oil supply around the top end.
4) What’s it like to do DIY maintenance on? I can imagine it’s a bit more awkward than a bland car. To put this into perspective someone told me not to bother doing a sparkplug change on my Kawasaki ZX6-R, I did it anyway, it took me about 3 hours but was not that difficult just awkward at times.
Nothing that a good amateur mechanic can't do. It's just abit awkward in places. If you don't mind getting your hands dirty and a few bruised knuckles, then you'll do just fine.
I always think of the Tuscan as a car that is capable of being perfected, providing your willing to spend time in the garage and have a good tool kit and alot of patience. I've been doing this for the last six months, and found alot of the parts used are infact good quality (Brakes, Chassis, Transmission, Drive Train. The things that let them down are electrics and poor quality assembly and fixings(Can be sorted with not alot of money, new connections, re routing of various cables etc).......But a good amateur mechanic is easily capable of doing it. I just leave major engine work to the specialists.
5) Unless I’m way off with question one. I would like to have the shims checked when find the car I intend to buy. If you were selling your car and I asked if I could have this done (me footing the bill), would you allow it? On that note if you were buying a Tuscan would you bother? If not why not?
A person selling a genuine car should have no problem with this. If I were selling mine I would be quite happy providing you paid for it, and it was taken to somewhere reputable (TVR Specialist)
6) Are there any mods that are essential to a 2000/2001 car that should have been carried out? Been looking through the forum and found a few, but to get a good list would be good.
Err........depends how much of a perfectionist/enthusiast the previous owner or owners were. There's lots that you can do, and there are some bits which you should do.... Shock Absorbers, Battery Shielding, changing the rear fuel hose (Tank To Pump), it's positioned too close to the exhaust and needs re-routing in a safer position as the constant heat causes it to perish at an alarming rate, and some cars have been lost as a result, as have other cars been lost due to the battery sheilding problem. (Lost = Gone up in flames).
7) Chassis corrosion, what’s that all about!? Sounds nasty, is it that much of a problem on the Tuscan?
Keep it clean or waxoiled, and use the winter months to get under the car and check/clean/waxoil. I have used a small dremmel to buzz off any stone chip rust and then apply "CureRust" followed by Hammerite Grey, which is almost a perfect match with TVRs grey poweder coating. Same again though.......depends on how the previous owner looked after the car. But remember "It's easier to replace an engine than it is a chassis" ! ! ! !
8) De-catted cars, I take it you have to replace the cats for MOT? So when buying a de-catted car the original bits should come with it….right?
Depends on how friendly you are with your local MOT Garage..........But officially, yes you should replace them for the MOT.
9) Anyone know anything about this Tuscan: http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/895933.htm
I know it's been for sale for quite some time, but don't know the car. Looks like it's has money spent on it, so it could be a good buy, and bearing in mind it's been for sale for a while, there may be some margin for negotiation on the price.
Good Luck with your search, and I hope this helps.
Edited by Jim Green on Wednesday 4th March 15:20
Edited by Jim Green on Wednesday 4th March 17:34
Hi James.
I cant see the link on the original post so im not quite sure how new a Tuscan you are for.
I do however know of a Tuscan 2 in chameleon blue with 6854 miles on the clock that will be on sale soon!
If you are intrested PM me for some more info.
And rest assured, if you want the car inspected by anyone, you are more than welcome!
Stu
I cant see the link on the original post so im not quite sure how new a Tuscan you are for.
I do however know of a Tuscan 2 in chameleon blue with 6854 miles on the clock that will be on sale soon!
If you are intrested PM me for some more info.
And rest assured, if you want the car inspected by anyone, you are more than welcome!
Stu
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