body off - would like to strengthen S1 chassis
Discussion
I think the V8S has a different arrangement under the engine to the V6 - though this may be due to the different engine / gearbox design.
Note there is no tube across from one side to the other as on the V6 near the outrigger tubes.
Do these help - all on my photobucket link on useful links page 7.
Note there is no tube across from one side to the other as on the V6 near the outrigger tubes.
Do these help - all on my photobucket link on useful links page 7.
Edited by Barkychoc on Thursday 5th March 15:02
Magpies,
The S chassis is stong enough (I've not heard of them breaking or bending other than in a accident), but what it really needs is more stiffness (sorry to be pedantic). The chassis needs to transfer suspension loads to all the big bits of mass of the vehicle, doing this without flexing is the basis to good handling, ride comfort and refinement.
Three things you need to consider are vertical bending (imaging pushing down on the chassis in the centre whilst supporting the damper mounts), torsion (twisting one end of the chassis relative to the other by holding the damper mounts) and lateral bending (imaging pushing sideways on the chassis in the centre whilst pushing sideways in the opposite direction at the wishbone mounts). Strangely people who should know better tend to overlook this last one in favour of torsional stiffness...
The S chassis ties all the suspension points to each other and the the other heavy bits of the car. The stiffest chassis would have all of these points joined with triangles in all three planes, any area where four tubes form a square could be improved with a tube across on of the diagonal.
In practice the S is a long way from this ideal. This is for two reasons:
a) lots of stuff gets in the way - the engine for example, and the need to accomodate the driver and passenger.
b) it is cheaper to have the minimum number of tubes and joins in the chassis!
Looking at my chassis I believe there is certainly lots of potential to add stiffness with a bit of work. The challenge is to identify where you can add material without clashing with other parts of the vehicle and without restricting access so that you can't put it back together again!
An effective alternative to cross bracing tubes is a shear panel. This is a flat plate which if joined to the tube frame around it's perimeter adds considerable resistance to warping. This can still be reasonably effective even if it has holes in it (although any hole will reduce it's efficiency so should be minimised).
In short you need to start planning your improvements by very careful study of a complete car to see where you can add metal.
Unfortunately my own attempts at this exercise a probably a year away.
The S chassis is stong enough (I've not heard of them breaking or bending other than in a accident), but what it really needs is more stiffness (sorry to be pedantic). The chassis needs to transfer suspension loads to all the big bits of mass of the vehicle, doing this without flexing is the basis to good handling, ride comfort and refinement.
Three things you need to consider are vertical bending (imaging pushing down on the chassis in the centre whilst supporting the damper mounts), torsion (twisting one end of the chassis relative to the other by holding the damper mounts) and lateral bending (imaging pushing sideways on the chassis in the centre whilst pushing sideways in the opposite direction at the wishbone mounts). Strangely people who should know better tend to overlook this last one in favour of torsional stiffness...
The S chassis ties all the suspension points to each other and the the other heavy bits of the car. The stiffest chassis would have all of these points joined with triangles in all three planes, any area where four tubes form a square could be improved with a tube across on of the diagonal.
In practice the S is a long way from this ideal. This is for two reasons:
a) lots of stuff gets in the way - the engine for example, and the need to accomodate the driver and passenger.
b) it is cheaper to have the minimum number of tubes and joins in the chassis!
Looking at my chassis I believe there is certainly lots of potential to add stiffness with a bit of work. The challenge is to identify where you can add material without clashing with other parts of the vehicle and without restricting access so that you can't put it back together again!
An effective alternative to cross bracing tubes is a shear panel. This is a flat plate which if joined to the tube frame around it's perimeter adds considerable resistance to warping. This can still be reasonably effective even if it has holes in it (although any hole will reduce it's efficiency so should be minimised).
In short you need to start planning your improvements by very careful study of a complete car to see where you can add metal.
Unfortunately my own attempts at this exercise a probably a year away.
Barkychoc said:
I think the V8S has a different arrangement under the engine to the V6 - though this may be due to the different engine / gearbox design.
Note there is no tube across from one side to the other as on the V6 near the outrigger tubes.
Do these help - all on my photobucket link on useful links page 7.
Hey Chris... if you look very carefully at your pictures... really study them hard... can you see them... ? they are there all over mate...Note there is no tube across from one side to the other as on the V6 near the outrigger tubes.
Do these help - all on my photobucket link on useful links page 7.
.
.
.
..
...
...reasons why you cannot seriously be contemplating selling your motor !
Cheers for the info
I now have the body suspended above the chassis (no engine/gearbox fitted but they are in my garage) As well as a full rollcage front legs at a steep angle near the dash, then main hoop just to the rear of the seats then rear stays and a diagonal (I'm looking at how to avoid the canvass roof mechanisms and to fit the harness mounts). These can of course be bolted in - the chassis will be extended to the cage mountings. There is obvious room for cross / diagonals between the rear suspnsion towers but the fronts will need further lookjing at. Also looking to weld triangular fillets at the tube joints.
Magpies
I now have the body suspended above the chassis (no engine/gearbox fitted but they are in my garage) As well as a full rollcage front legs at a steep angle near the dash, then main hoop just to the rear of the seats then rear stays and a diagonal (I'm looking at how to avoid the canvass roof mechanisms and to fit the harness mounts). These can of course be bolted in - the chassis will be extended to the cage mountings. There is obvious room for cross / diagonals between the rear suspnsion towers but the fronts will need further lookjing at. Also looking to weld triangular fillets at the tube joints.
Magpies
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