Discussion
Started to clean my outriggers up this morning and wish I had never started. Has anyone else ever scraped flakey powder coating off with big pieces of rotten metal attached? It has Holes at the front corners on top too 
Piece of s
t.
I think I'm going to sit and cry.
Piece of s
t.I think I'm going to sit and cry.
Edited by Mister TVR on Tuesday 10th March 10:14
I did my chassis a couple of weeks ago and was dreading the very same scenario (which was why I wanted to do it myself, so I could see the worst!), however, I was very lucky.
Chin up though - at least you know its happening, so you can plan for the fix (and there do appear to be a number of different options these days).
There does seem to be quite an element of luck thrown into the chassis mix though. My Cerbera is a 97 and I use it all year round, I was expecting what you found.....
Chin up though - at least you know its happening, so you can plan for the fix (and there do appear to be a number of different options these days).
There does seem to be quite an element of luck thrown into the chassis mix though. My Cerbera is a 97 and I use it all year round, I was expecting what you found.....
amazon said:
I did my chassis a couple of weeks ago and was dreading the very same scenario (which was why I wanted to do it myself, so I could see the worst!), however, I was very lucky.
Ditto me too...luck I mean...ended up welding a small patch on the passenger side on the bottom of the front chassis tube just to be on the safe side...otherwise mine seems to be OK.Worse on the passengers side...?
I read your other thread also. Note that the Cerb has it's rollcage body bolted to the outriggers so replacement is much more difficult than for the Griff/Chim. Steve Heath has taken the body off his Cerb and uneathed the difficulties of refitting. In the meantime I'd replace the body to chassis bolts one at a time with much longer ones so that you can thouroughly inspect the situation with the body jacked up say three inches. Try to ascertain whether a repair can be done in this state.
Good luck, Jonathan
Good luck, Jonathan
900T-R said:
amazon said:
I did my chassis a couple of weeks ago
That's my kind of lady - is there anything you won't have a go at with these cars? 
I'm not that good, but I'm learning! This weekend I am supposed to be fitting a new exhaust, replacing a headlight lens and wondering if I am brave enough to tackle brake pads! 
Watch this space!
amazon said:
900T-R said:
amazon said:
I did my chassis a couple of weeks ago
That's my kind of lady - is there anything you won't have a go at with these cars? I'm not that good, but I'm learning! This weekend I am supposed to be fitting a new exhaust, replacing a headlight lens and wondering if I am brave enough to tackle brake pads! Watch this space!
amazon said:
I'm not that good, but I'm learning! This weekend I am supposed to be fitting a new exhaust, replacing a headlight lens and wondering if I am brave enough to tackle brake pads! Got a 6,000 mile service coming up after Chimmie's MOT which is scheduled for the 23rd (I'll have the oil and filter changed for fear I might drain the oil pump and get myself in a spot of bother - chicken, I know but at 170 euro for 7.5 litres of 10W60 Helix Ultra Motorsport oil (6.5 in the sump, 1 for toping up afterwards) plus filter, and 35 for labour it makes sense) so I get to do typical TVR things like greasing the propshaft and driveshaft UJs, lubricating throttle cables and door hinges etc. for the first time... Plus of course the obligatory post-winter check/repaint (well, cover in RX5 more like) of chassis tubes... fun fun fun!
900T-R said:
amazon said:
I'm not that good, but I'm learning! This weekend I am supposed to be fitting a new exhaust, replacing a headlight lens and wondering if I am brave enough to tackle brake pads! Got a 6,000 mile service coming up after Chimmie's MOT which is scheduled for the 23rd (I'll have the oil and filter changed for fear I might drain the oil pump and get myself in a spot of bother - chicken, I know but at 170 euro for 7.5 litres of 10W60 Helix Ultra Motorsport oil (6.5 in the sump, 1 for toping up afterwards) plus filter, and 35 for labour it makes sense) so I get to do typical TVR things like greasing the propshaft and driveshaft UJs, lubricating throttle cables and door hinges etc. for the first time... Plus of course the obligatory post-winter check/repaint (well, cover in RX5 more like) of chassis tubes... fun fun fun!
.She is more than capable of doing things on her own.
JR said:
I read your other thread also. Note that the Cerb has it's rollcage body bolted to the outriggers so replacement is much more difficult than for the Griff/Chim. Steve Heath has taken the body off his Cerb and uneathed the difficulties of refitting. In the meantime I'd replace the body to chassis bolts one at a time with much longer ones so that you can thouroughly inspect the situation with the body jacked up say three inches. Try to ascertain whether a repair can be done in this state.
Good luck, Jonathan
An interesting idea, though hopefully with the kind of solutions people are already using to rust-proofing, this will hopefully be unnecessary for 30years+?! Good luck, Jonathan
can the body be jacked off the chasis by 3 inches or so with fuel lines, steering etc still attached or does the lot have to be unbolted so it can be raised.
i would like to clean and rust proof my outriggers but I can't go through the hassle of completley removing the body at the moment. (thats next winters task)
i would like to clean and rust proof my outriggers but I can't go through the hassle of completley removing the body at the moment. (thats next winters task)
cupra20v.t said:
can the body be jacked off the chasis by 3 inches or so with fuel lines, steering etc still attached or does the lot have to be unbolted so it can be raised.
i would like to clean and rust proof my outriggers but I can't go through the hassle of completley removing the body at the moment. (thats next winters task)
unfortunately not as far as im awarei would like to clean and rust proof my outriggers but I can't go through the hassle of completley removing the body at the moment. (thats next winters task)
You can't jack the body up three inches easily. Basically you have to go through the whole process for removing the body including removing the fuel tank and most of the interior to free everything up so you might as well take the body off.
Also if the outriggers have gone, it is very likely that the parts of the transmission tunnel have also gone as well. The top rails are particularly liable as the combination of the exhaust manifolds and heat shielding effectively steam clean the chassis! The heat shielding absorbs water which the manifold turns to steam and hey presto corrosion everywhere. This is why I used the nimbus heat shielding which is an ally sandwich that won't hold any water.
Also if the outriggers have gone, it is very likely that the parts of the transmission tunnel have also gone as well. The top rails are particularly liable as the combination of the exhaust manifolds and heat shielding effectively steam clean the chassis! The heat shielding absorbs water which the manifold turns to steam and hey presto corrosion everywhere. This is why I used the nimbus heat shielding which is an ally sandwich that won't hold any water.
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