Baffled sump, at what point do I need one?
Discussion
I'm starting to do more track days in the car, and I'm just about to put some Toyo R888's on the car, which along with the Nitrons should make for some fairly decent cornering g's. I can see that this may have an affect on the oil sloshing around in the sump, so should I think about baffling it? If so, who's good and how much would one expect to pay?
For maximum brownie points fit a flap valved sump.
Also make sure your oil pressure warning switch is connected to a big bright light in your line of sight, so it it does happen you know about it.
It helps to fill the sump 10-15mm higher than normal.
As extra insurance you could fit an oil accumulator.
Also make sure your oil pressure warning switch is connected to a big bright light in your line of sight, so it it does happen you know about it.
It helps to fill the sump 10-15mm higher than normal.
As extra insurance you could fit an oil accumulator.
There are others that come with electronic valves which are far cheaper than accusump if you search, might have been bette buying when we had a better $ rate 
The dials are a waste of money if you have the ignition controlled valve, its fit'n forget and you get pre-oiling to boot 
It will sit nicely on the front chassis rail (just need a bit of heat shield to the cat), oil pipe to the bunged take off on the front cover, and power up from the purge valve (its live when you want it and cuts the valve at the right times).
The dials are a waste of money if you have the ignition controlled valve, its fit'n forget and you get pre-oiling to boot It will sit nicely on the front chassis rail (just need a bit of heat shield to the cat), oil pipe to the bunged take off on the front cover, and power up from the purge valve (its live when you want it and cuts the valve at the right times).
shpub said:
John Eales Developments does the best baffled sump. Hasn't let the 520SE down yet! 500 + bhp running on slicks 
I have one fitted as well, one of the best looking ones Iv'e seen and comes with windage plate. I had oil surge issues on track before I fitted the charger, So I would definately recomend you fit one or accusump.
Edited by Bluebottle on Wednesday 11th March 09:09
Interestingly enough when I went to look at Matt Oakley's (the purple one in the classifieds which has been doing quite well in the sprinting championship) he told me that when John Eales built his engine (a 370bhp 5.2) he said that a baffled sump wasn't necessary.
Apparently the problem can be solved with an enlarged sump and an uber-powerful oil pump...
Apparently the problem can be solved with an enlarged sump and an uber-powerful oil pump...
Accusumps are basically a piston inside a cylinder, one side of the piston is your oil volume the other side an air spring, you push the piston down about 2/3 rds distance and fill it with oil and connect it up to your oil gallery via a 3/8" bore pipe and the other side you pump with a bicycle pump to a few bar.
If you've gone for the posh one you've also got a solenoid valve in between the accusump and the engine which only switches on when you've got the ignition on so you key on, wait a few seconds for the oil pressure light to go out and then start your engine.
If you've got the air pressure set right teh engien oil pressure pushes back against the air spring and should you have a pressure drop-out the spring pushes the pisotn foward and keeps pressure up to scratch.
Generally they work a treat, we used them one year at Spa when the cars' oil tank was rubbish at coping with vertical G.
If you've gone for the posh one you've also got a solenoid valve in between the accusump and the engine which only switches on when you've got the ignition on so you key on, wait a few seconds for the oil pressure light to go out and then start your engine.
If you've got the air pressure set right teh engien oil pressure pushes back against the air spring and should you have a pressure drop-out the spring pushes the pisotn foward and keeps pressure up to scratch.
Generally they work a treat, we used them one year at Spa when the cars' oil tank was rubbish at coping with vertical G.
I'd like to make a few points ..
Making the sump bigger as mentioned about is OK but will increase oil warm up time ..
Re the accusump - sounds like an excellent idea .. only faff is when changing oil .. and a similar issue with baffled sumps .. some of the oil iss trapped at oil change time..
I guess when you enter the world of oil surge .. all the above are engineering compromises inplace of a proper solution
The dry sump.
Making the sump bigger as mentioned about is OK but will increase oil warm up time ..
Re the accusump - sounds like an excellent idea .. only faff is when changing oil .. and a similar issue with baffled sumps .. some of the oil iss trapped at oil change time..
I guess when you enter the world of oil surge .. all the above are engineering compromises inplace of a proper solution
The dry sump.
Right I've got my R888's now and I think I'll probably go for an Accusump given that they seem to be around the same price as baffled sumps, but give superior performance. The question is though, where abouts would I plumb it in on a Chim? I could use a sandwich plate, though would this lead to clearance issues with the oil filter? Also I've heard that flow through sandwich plates isn't ideal. There is an adapter plate which fits to the front of the oil pump, but at over £100 its rather the expensive option! Any suggestions? I would think that I'd mount the accusump its self on the front chassis member.
Stick the pipe from the accumulator into the M18/20 blanking for the oil cooler take off on the front cover.
I have a sandwich plate for the oil cooler, but its still much easier to plumb the accumulator into the front cover (in serp or pre-serp arrangements). I would have thought you needed an oil cooler anyway???
I mount the accumulator on the front chassis rail as mine is clear of PAS / Swirl garbage, and simply power it piggy backed from the purge valve, run a pipe round the chassis to the front cover and clip a heatshield between the accu and cat..
I have a sandwich plate for the oil cooler, but its still much easier to plumb the accumulator into the front cover (in serp or pre-serp arrangements). I would have thought you needed an oil cooler anyway???
I mount the accumulator on the front chassis rail as mine is clear of PAS / Swirl garbage, and simply power it piggy backed from the purge valve, run a pipe round the chassis to the front cover and clip a heatshield between the accu and cat..
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