Better breathing

[stainless_steve]

Just cleaned my air filter,the end disc that holds the filter on is a blank piece of steel, now would it help if i made another and punched aload of holes in,then used something suitable to filter the air ,would this help ?

Steve

[jmorgan]

Probably barking up the wrong tree but does the plate seal the hole in the center of the filter? That is the cavity that goes to the engine?

[19560]

I think that you are both right. As s/s said if you pepper pot it then put a suitable filter on the back it should help marginally. I thought that the real problem though was trying to get COLD air in. The standard Wedge position just behind the rad is less than ideal. I remember that Richard Thorp re-routed his to a Griff type approach with a new filter.

[stainless_steve]

Here is a pic to help,i'm pointing to the disc,probably talking bull but it sounded good after afew

[rev-erend]

Steve - It's a K & N air filter so should be fairly efficient anyway.

I think you will just compromise it by drilling holes in it !

My friend move his to below the radiator for more cool air but the really bad thing is water .. like it rivers, floods etc. . he managed to hydro lock his engine by crossing a large flood... I'd leave alone.

[AM400]

Hi Steve,

I replaced mine with a filter from Green, they have a massive range of sizes, i measured the space and got the largest cone filter that i could squeeze in, nice clamp on neck dead easy to remove unlike the 4 bolts on the end of the original and good for 340BHP! You can get the version with an inverse cone on the front which is what you are talking about on by altering the original but I dont really think there would be much airflow from the front unless you made a feed pipe to it.

Andy.

[2 sheds]

Steve, that K&N is more than enough, i wouldn't bother with breathable end plate, is the filter squashed against the inner wing ?
bolting the filter straight onto the meter like this is not ideal, of course all wedges are like this, but what we need is a short straight pipe with a bell mouthed end onto a filter, i'll have to work on that.
Tim

[stainless_steve]

Thanks guys,now i have my car home i have afew beers go in the garage and think what i could do
The car runs great i have no probs with it,the filter has plenty of room.
Think i will be better off working on my gates instead.

Tim would a 3"diameter pipe bellended about 3" long welded on the end of the disc work?
Or do you mean a short pipe and then the filter mounted to it?
Steve

>> Edited by stainless_steve on Sunday 9th November 21:26

[2 sheds]

steve, you've got the idea, the longer the better, 3" should help, not sure how you would attach a steel pipe to the meter as i don't have one to hand, basically meters work better when fed from a tube, obviously the big problem is space for this in a Wedge.
Tim

[stainless_steve]

There is a plate bolted to the end of the meter,i think the meter has a square hole in the end(just a guess tell me if i'm wrong).
For better air flow would it be better with a square(size of the meter)to round(size of the air filter)i think this would help with a smoother flow?
hope you understand this?

Steve

[jmorgan]

Where would be the best place for the filter? Nose cone?

[TaSmania]

Steve,
The air meter (AFM) should have a round to square plate bolted on to the inlet side of the AFM. The filter you have which looks like a K&N (better) version of the standard should have four long bolts through the end plate which then hold the filter over the round end/entry to the AFM the four long bolts thus holding the round to square adaptor on to the AFM. Often the filter in other applications is jubilee clipped to the round part of the entry to the AFM e.g. if using say a Pipercross filter. Perhaps the best and easiest approach is to fit a flexi (Samco from 2 sheds) jubilee'd to the AFM and then to a large Pipercross the pipe needing to be only about 4" long to aid conical flow into the AFM. Only issue is this puts the filter a long way forward. Best place is in a heat shielded box just under the bonnet at the back-centre with the bonnet raised a fraction to allow the low pressure air from the base of the sceen which should also be cold. I think this is what shpub (Steve Heath) has done - I'm sure he'll drop into this topic soon!
Having said this - what you've got should be plenty good enough for your beastie.
Cheers,
GB

[shpub]

Yep exactly what I did. The main problem is not the air flow, it is the air temperature. Either the back of the bonnet below the windscreen I'm using 2 80mm diameter pipes. Alterntaively, a Tower View scoop a la Cirks.

[350matt]

I've recently made an insulation spacer (2mm thick) of low conductivity / high expansion material which fits between the trumpet base and manifold. This works a treat with inlet temps dropped by 15-20° with better throttle response , torque etc

Matt

[streaky]

2 sheds said:

... the longer the better, 3" should help ...

SWMBO agrees with the former, but not with the latter! - Streaky

[2 sheds]

There are gains to be made from lower air temp & better flow, in an ideal world you want to run about a metre of smooth hose feeding the AFM with a bell mouth into a filter, not easy in a Wedge, insulator gasket under the trumpet base is a good idea for reducing heat.
3" trumpet shaped pipe onto the AFM would make an improvement, its really a case of how much time you have to fart about with these things, over the years i have tried many tweeks on these induction systems and have had the luxury of playing around during rolling road & bench dyno sessions. don't have the time these days, just left with the memories of sitting in the boot of big bad wedges at 6500 rpm,
Tim

[stainless_steve]

Thanks guys for all your input

Steve