Converting to full road bike - help needed!
Discussion
I bought a Ridgeback Genesis Day 03 in http://www.lewiz.org/wp-content/uploads/2007/08/gn... 2007 and it is a pretty good bike, got an awesome review at the time, and is still going strong. I bought it as a fast commuter bike, and was told it would be easy enough to convert to full road bike spec if i got serious.
Now rather than spending another £900 as i did for it 2 years ago, can you tell me what i would need parts wise to convert the handlebars, breaks and gears to road bike spec? Is it worth doing?
I am doing the Etape again this year, and would like to do it on my own bike, as i borrowed a proper road bike last year, but have not cycled on it before, and it felt strange so would like to convert my Day03 this month and have some time on it!
Anyway, any advice will be gratefully received!
Cheers,
David
Now rather than spending another £900 as i did for it 2 years ago, can you tell me what i would need parts wise to convert the handlebars, breaks and gears to road bike spec? Is it worth doing?
I am doing the Etape again this year, and would like to do it on my own bike, as i borrowed a proper road bike last year, but have not cycled on it before, and it felt strange so would like to convert my Day03 this month and have some time on it!
Anyway, any advice will be gratefully received!
Cheers,
David
Would highly recommend a conker block (very small, close ratio rear cassette)
Got one on my mountain bike with a 48T large chain ring on the front and it doesn't take long to get into top gear. And i'm on a 1.4" slick on the front and a semi-slick (1.9" I think) on the back.
Have you considered these?

Got one on my mountain bike with a 48T large chain ring on the front and it doesn't take long to get into top gear. And i'm on a 1.4" slick on the front and a semi-slick (1.9" I think) on the back.
Have you considered these?

When I converted my flat bar Scott to 'full road spec' I had a number of issues.
Firstly, the front deraileur had a different pull ratio to either Road or MTB shifters (why? Shimano. Why?) so the STi levers never really worked the front mech properly. It was either went to far or not far enough.
Secondly, I think the top tubes are longer on the flat bar road bikes as I needed a 50mm stem to get the drop handle bars in the correct place. On my last road bike I had a 100mmm stem.
Personally, I wouldn't bother converting a flat bar bike to drops again.
Fit some tri bars / bar ends or get a new bike.
Firstly, the front deraileur had a different pull ratio to either Road or MTB shifters (why? Shimano. Why?) so the STi levers never really worked the front mech properly. It was either went to far or not far enough.
Secondly, I think the top tubes are longer on the flat bar road bikes as I needed a 50mm stem to get the drop handle bars in the correct place. On my last road bike I had a 100mmm stem.
Personally, I wouldn't bother converting a flat bar bike to drops again.
Fit some tri bars / bar ends or get a new bike.
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