Engine Bay electrics
Discussion
Well moderate success,I mananage to hook up a battery to my S and get most cicuits live.
I couldn't seem to find where the battery negative lead attaches to the chassis. Any tips
Also do people have two cables attaching to the battery +ve (main feed to starter and a smaller one) and just one -ve (to chassis). A picture would be handy.
Still haven't worked out how to mount the aux fluid reseviour for the brake master cylinder, again a picture would help.
Thanks
Mike
I couldn't seem to find where the battery negative lead attaches to the chassis. Any tips
Also do people have two cables attaching to the battery +ve (main feed to starter and a smaller one) and just one -ve (to chassis). A picture would be handy.
Still haven't worked out how to mount the aux fluid reseviour for the brake master cylinder, again a picture would help.
Thanks
Mike
Hi Mike
Try scanning the pics and websites of rebuilds and refurbs in the "Useful Links" section its a mine of pictorial information...
On mine the negative terminal goes to a chassis mount on the tube between the Swirl Tank mount and the Shocker top mount. The Positive goes via a huge red cable direct to the starter motor.
I have the Ford Brake Servo+Resrvoir so its mounted on the master cyl itself. You must have the Saab set-up so sorry I cant help with the mount.
Hope this helps
K
Try scanning the pics and websites of rebuilds and refurbs in the "Useful Links" section its a mine of pictorial information...
On mine the negative terminal goes to a chassis mount on the tube between the Swirl Tank mount and the Shocker top mount. The Positive goes via a huge red cable direct to the starter motor.
I have the Ford Brake Servo+Resrvoir so its mounted on the master cyl itself. You must have the Saab set-up so sorry I cant help with the mount.
Hope this helps
K
Will have a look.
Yep I have the Saab setup.
Will have to look at some pictures.
Wiring diagram shows two connections to the +ve battery, I have the big cable to starter sorted and there is a cable that seems from the photos I have to run along the chassis rail under the battery tray and then I assume (can't see in the picture) connect to the battery neg terminal, but I don't understand why (as you'd just earth it to the chassis?, where as the wiring diagram shows two battery +ve connections.
The cable in question is brown. which looks from the wiring diagram to go to the battery +ve.
It also seems as though there are two feeds to the ignition,one from the starter motor and one from the alternator.
Mike
Yep I have the Saab setup.
Will have to look at some pictures.
Wiring diagram shows two connections to the +ve battery, I have the big cable to starter sorted and there is a cable that seems from the photos I have to run along the chassis rail under the battery tray and then I assume (can't see in the picture) connect to the battery neg terminal, but I don't understand why (as you'd just earth it to the chassis?, where as the wiring diagram shows two battery +ve connections.
The cable in question is brown. which looks from the wiring diagram to go to the battery +ve.
It also seems as though there are two feeds to the ignition,one from the starter motor and one from the alternator.
Mike
I can't vouch for the V6 but on the V8 all the car electrics are fed via a main positive lead that connects to the main starter positive terminal. Then the big fat red wire runs from the starter to the battery (in the boot).
This positive lead isn't as thick as you would think, and is brown on mine if you're looking for a red wire!
Its in the same bit of loom that has the wires for the oil pressure sender & gauge in it.
Have a look at this - that starter motor wire is the main feed to the car electrics off the main starter terminal.
http://tvrsseries.com/drawings/tvrv8wiring.jpg
This positive lead isn't as thick as you would think, and is brown on mine if you're looking for a red wire!
Its in the same bit of loom that has the wires for the oil pressure sender & gauge in it.
Have a look at this - that starter motor wire is the main feed to the car electrics off the main starter terminal.
http://tvrsseries.com/drawings/tvrv8wiring.jpg
Hi Mike,
battery connections, the +ve battery terminal has one red larger to the starter motor and one smaller one to the alternator 8mm terminal, the earth cable on mine links to same as Kevins between swirl pot and the top mount, from there mine also links up to alternator body.
Saab brake res. mounts to bulkhead pic.
Ian
battery connections, the +ve battery terminal has one red larger to the starter motor and one smaller one to the alternator 8mm terminal, the earth cable on mine links to same as Kevins between swirl pot and the top mount, from there mine also links up to alternator body.
Saab brake res. mounts to bulkhead pic.
Ian
Edited by MnS on Monday 16th March 11:43
I connected the smaller (black and red I think) cable to the starter which I thought was the main feed to the ignition, this didnt seem to do that much I think I got a light on the dash and a couple of red LEDS on the radio flashed but it wouldnt turn on. I then tried connecting the alternator wires to the battery and everything came to life. (the mistery wire that looks like it comes off the same part of the wiring harness as the alternator must go to the battery +ve (its event brown). Its just not on the photos the guy gave me with the car which is why I'm confused.
, from the alternator 8mm terminal went down along chassis under the battery tray and up to to the +ve battery terminal, mine was brown also, its a black one now - changed it cos it was a bit frazzled looking in places.Hey Ian that engine bay is going to worry Mr Bruce at SCH09...;) and yes, sorry I didnt mention the brown cable 
Norman... I see you have the Battery Isolator switch on the negative treminal, same as I had for a while. I found that when I "secured" my vehicle by undoing this, it effectively reset my ECU so I removed mine. I believe you can run a 5 amp fused by-pass so that the low consumption stuff still takes power, but a high load (like someone hot wiring your ignition) would blow the fuse anyway...
K
Norman... I see you have the Battery Isolator switch on the negative treminal, same as I had for a while. I found that when I "secured" my vehicle by undoing this, it effectively reset my ECU so I removed mine. I believe you can run a 5 amp fused by-pass so that the low consumption stuff still takes power, but a high load (like someone hot wiring your ignition) would blow the fuse anyway...
K
, and he will be first to point out bits i have missed
Hi Mike
Some more pics to help with the reservoir
Some more pics to help with the reservoir
ketvrin said:
Norman... I see you have the Battery Isolator switch on the negative treminal, same as I had for a while. I found that when I "secured" my vehicle by undoing this, it effectively reset my ECU so I removed mine. I believe you can run a 5 amp fused by-pass so that the low consumption stuff still takes power, but a high load (like someone hot wiring your ignition) would blow the fuse anyway...
K
Yep had no problem with resets as there was a by-pass fuse. But took it off - a pain in the butt to keep removing itK
after looking at pics of MnS engine bay (WOW), then GERALD (no offence Norman)
made me think of cheap and easy diy bling that really makes a big difference.
NEW jubille clips. my engine is one of the worst out there,
but with a wire brush, and some new clips, WOW what a difference.
anyway back out to the car for me, for some more grazed knuckles.
john
made me think of cheap and easy diy bling that really makes a big difference.
NEW jubille clips. my engine is one of the worst out there,
but with a wire brush, and some new clips, WOW what a difference.
anyway back out to the car for me, for some more grazed knuckles.
john
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