"Running in" new tyres
Discussion
Righto. I'm having a brace of 235/50ZR16 95W Toyo T1-Rs fitted this weekend.
I'm aware they'll be 'lively' for a while but is there a recommended way to wear them in? I've heard talk of various heat-cycles and the like before but never really gleaned exactly what to do to 1. get the best performance, 2. get the best life from them and 3. keep the Griff shiny side up while doing so.
ETA Changed size of tyres.
I'm aware they'll be 'lively' for a while but is there a recommended way to wear them in? I've heard talk of various heat-cycles and the like before but never really gleaned exactly what to do to 1. get the best performance, 2. get the best life from them and 3. keep the Griff shiny side up while doing so.
ETA Changed size of tyres.
Edited by LordGrover on Tuesday 17th March 16:09
Its not so much getting heat in, you can light up the edges very quickly. Its getting even heat across the tyre IYSWIM, generally much much harder to achieve in this cooler weather, a couple of cycles should do it if you can get it right. Big empty industrial estates with nice tarmac & a circuit is my favoured location.
IIRC Andy monster said something like 'keeping them in the airing cupboard for a week before fitting' in the past.. he's probably the best to ask for advice?
IIRC Andy monster said something like 'keeping them in the airing cupboard for a week before fitting' in the past.. he's probably the best to ask for advice?
Have you had Toyos before, LG?
50mph for 50 miles to bed them in.
I keep them at 4psi more than the pressure recommended for SO2/3s as the sidewalls aren't as stiff.
Not keen on the carpark heat cycle shenanigans as I am just as likely to wreck them or put myself in a hedge, so I just stay aware of their liveliness until I have done about 1000 miles on them.
50mph for 50 miles to bed them in.
I keep them at 4psi more than the pressure recommended for SO2/3s as the sidewalls aren't as stiff.
Not keen on the carpark heat cycle shenanigans as I am just as likely to wreck them or put myself in a hedge, so I just stay aware of their liveliness until I have done about 1000 miles on them.
I put some fresh rear Toyo's on in the lunch break of a track day last year ... then went out for a few laps, cup of tea, few laps, more tea and all is fine.
I think the problem is the releasing agent used to get the tyre out of the mould - heat sorts this out.
In my experience, brand new tyres get to 80% or better grip very quickly. Reminds me of the bleach induced burn-outs in an old Rover 350 ... happy days !
I think the problem is the releasing agent used to get the tyre out of the mould - heat sorts this out.
In my experience, brand new tyres get to 80% or better grip very quickly. Reminds me of the bleach induced burn-outs in an old Rover 350 ... happy days !
It all depends on how hard you push them during the first couple hundred miles.
What I found, specifically with the T1-R's is that the are very soft until they cure properly. This manifests itself in extra lateral movement in the sidewall during cornering AND creap in the tread blocks! This gives you the very weird feeling that your car is tethered to a huge rubber band as you're cornering and as you straighten up the car snaps back onto the tyre centreline which can be rather alarming the first time and doesn't inspire confidence in them.
In my case it took 200 miles for them to cure properly, and then, you'll find they are heaps better than the old Bridgestones
.
What I found, specifically with the T1-R's is that the are very soft until they cure properly. This manifests itself in extra lateral movement in the sidewall during cornering AND creap in the tread blocks! This gives you the very weird feeling that your car is tethered to a huge rubber band as you're cornering and as you straighten up the car snaps back onto the tyre centreline which can be rather alarming the first time and doesn't inspire confidence in them.
In my case it took 200 miles for them to cure properly, and then, you'll find they are heaps better than the old Bridgestones
.
Until they've been cured the tyres will be very soft which means they tend to distort under cornering loads (which puts even more heat into the tyre, making them even softer ...) and also mechanically weak. This means the car will tend to mover around a lot on the tyres and will also wear the tyres a lot when they slide. This is why you should never take new tyres on track unless they've been cured first. Driving that will leave cured tyres almost unscratched can be enough to completely destroy a set of new green tyres.
To complete the vulcanising process you need to get them up to about 60C and then let them cool down gradually. In the summer this is quite easy to do with ten minutes or so of driving with plenty of firm acceleration, cornering and braking. In the winter it's almost impossible. Now the weather is warming up it's more likely to be possible but you will need nice grippy roads on a warm dry day. You need to keep the tyre somewhere close to the limit of grip without actually sliding. Bearing in mind that the tyres will be quite slippery when you do this, you need to pick a time and place that is not likely to involve anyone else.
You will know you've got them hot enough when the whole width of the tread is too hot to touch comfortably.
If you have trouble getting them hot enough, raising the tyre pressure a few PSI will put more heat into the tread but will also make the tyres squirm more, so be careful. If you do this, remember to put the pressure back to normal when they've cooled down.
The first time you put the tyres through this process will make the most difference, but each time you do it will cure the tyres a little further.
To complete the vulcanising process you need to get them up to about 60C and then let them cool down gradually. In the summer this is quite easy to do with ten minutes or so of driving with plenty of firm acceleration, cornering and braking. In the winter it's almost impossible. Now the weather is warming up it's more likely to be possible but you will need nice grippy roads on a warm dry day. You need to keep the tyre somewhere close to the limit of grip without actually sliding. Bearing in mind that the tyres will be quite slippery when you do this, you need to pick a time and place that is not likely to involve anyone else.
You will know you've got them hot enough when the whole width of the tread is too hot to touch comfortably.
If you have trouble getting them hot enough, raising the tyre pressure a few PSI will put more heat into the tread but will also make the tyres squirm more, so be careful. If you do this, remember to put the pressure back to normal when they've cooled down.
The first time you put the tyres through this process will make the most difference, but each time you do it will cure the tyres a little further.
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