Rubber suspension
Discussion
Once I get the welding out of the way (about in a decade), I'll be turning to the suspension. Apart from the obvious, how do I tell if the rubber cones are knackered. What's available? Some places advertise ST Rally types others say only "standard" now available, etc etc. What do I need (can I get) for the 73 Clubbie, road & road/rally car. I will be changing the knuckles if knackered, I should be able to see that.
PS will be changing the sub frame mounts for poly type unless you think different. Against solid 'cos of noise transmission and think I need a little "compliance" for road use.
thanks folks
Tony H
PS will be changing the sub frame mounts for poly type unless you think different. Against solid 'cos of noise transmission and think I need a little "compliance" for road use.
thanks folks
Tony H
Not to sure about ur cones but normally u can tell when rubber has past its sell by date,
if u do change them i know ur best with the std ones.
As for the sub mounting kit i'm using the solid ones and i didnt find any real increase in noise (this is a mini though).
The car handles allot better for it and if your also worried that the car maybe to vicious for road use make sure u buy adjustable shocks (can recommend the AVO's)as with them you can make it as compliant as u want it.
Hope that helps ya
if u do change them i know ur best with the std ones.
As for the sub mounting kit i'm using the solid ones and i didnt find any real increase in noise (this is a mini though).
The car handles allot better for it and if your also worried that the car maybe to vicious for road use make sure u buy adjustable shocks (can recommend the AVO's)as with them you can make it as compliant as u want it.
Hope that helps ya
Rubber cones have always been one of the more reliable bits on a Mini (a relative term in Mini-speak!).
On a rally car, new ones will sag quite quickly - probably after a couple of fairly tough events. Then it helps to have either hi-lo's (if permitted by the regs) or a tower tool to compress the suspension to fit the spacer washers.
If you can find a fairly late standard car with some mileage on it you can use fit the cones which have already sagged a bit. They seem to get a bit harder when they have sagged. Just make sure the rubber is not detaching itself from the metal and make sure you use the correct spindle in the tower tool - there are two types of thread in the cones. To change a cone you must remove the top arm on the front, but that's not too difficult.
As Dave says, don't set the dampers too hard. A Mini suspension needs to work and there is little enough suspension travel to begin with. That's why I always set my cars a bit on the high side for rallying and maximise the available travel. Lowered cars are great on the track, but never, ever on the road.
On a rally car, new ones will sag quite quickly - probably after a couple of fairly tough events. Then it helps to have either hi-lo's (if permitted by the regs) or a tower tool to compress the suspension to fit the spacer washers.
If you can find a fairly late standard car with some mileage on it you can use fit the cones which have already sagged a bit. They seem to get a bit harder when they have sagged. Just make sure the rubber is not detaching itself from the metal and make sure you use the correct spindle in the tower tool - there are two types of thread in the cones. To change a cone you must remove the top arm on the front, but that's not too difficult.
As Dave says, don't set the dampers too hard. A Mini suspension needs to work and there is little enough suspension travel to begin with. That's why I always set my cars a bit on the high side for rallying and maximise the available travel. Lowered cars are great on the track, but never, ever on the road.
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