Discussion
B@man said:
Can anyone tell me what size the rear Hub retaining nuts are on a 400SE, According to the bible they are 38mm but I read somewhere else that they are 33mm
Anyone know for definite before I buy the wrong size socket ?
I'm sure that the hub nut is the same for all Wedges 200-SEAC. 38mm rings a bell but I'll have to check later. Anyone know for definite before I buy the wrong size socket ?
Thanks for confirmation - order for 3/4" 1m breaker bar & 38mm impact socket pending.
Already have the 6' scaffolding from undoing Sierra front hub's (and the broken 1/2" drive socket set)
Bet it rains on Saturday
Also ordered some replacement gas struts for the boot lid, after being laughed at more than usual while trying to put roof away when boot lid kept shutting as soon as you let go of it, good job it's got the spoiler to use as a handle
£45 delivered !
Already have the 6' scaffolding from undoing Sierra front hub's (and the broken 1/2" drive socket set)
Bet it rains on Saturday
Also ordered some replacement gas struts for the boot lid, after being laughed at more than usual while trying to put roof away when boot lid kept shutting as soon as you let go of it, good job it's got the spoiler to use as a handle
£45 delivered !
Hi Leigh,
Thanks for the offer I'm not local but managed to source suitable 3/4" drive 38mm socket and Sliding T bar off fleabay for £30, as that kind of torque it's just a case of getting it F'kin tight
Tony you are right it's keeping me busy, once the wheel bearing and boot struts are done the next job is going to be refitting the rear section of the drainpipe so it clears the N/S drive shaft !
Thanks for the offer I'm not local but managed to source suitable 3/4" drive 38mm socket and Sliding T bar off fleabay for £30, as that kind of torque it's just a case of getting it F'kin tight
Tony you are right it's keeping me busy, once the wheel bearing and boot struts are done the next job is going to be refitting the rear section of the drainpipe so it clears the N/S drive shaft !
3/4 inch drive is a bit over the top IMHO. My 1/2 inch drive impact socket attached to a breaker bar works fine for undoing and Halfords supplied a decent torque wrench fit for the job of doing up. I prefer to use a drop of thread lock on a clean thread rather than drilling and split pinning but each to their own.
leorest said:
3/4 inch drive is a bit over the top IMHO. My 1/2 inch drive impact socket attached to a breaker bar works fine for undoing and Halfords supplied a decent torque wrench fit for the job of doing up. I prefer to use a drop of thread lock on a clean thread rather than drilling and split pinning but each to their own.
Hear hear! 36" long 1/2" drive Britool cracking bar to get them off, Britool EVT3000A torquer for putting them back on.3/4 " drive is for wagon fittings.
Sorry but I disagree !
Sierra front hubs are torqued to 240LB/ft and I broke several good quality 1/2" drive breaker bars despite using a impact socket, in the end I ground two flats onto the socket so I could hold it in the vice and then got an old wheel rim and welded 3' of box section to it, that method succeeded when heat, swearing and three 1/2" "breaker bars" failed or in the case of the breaker bars - broke
For £30 I'd rather buy the correct tool for the job and not break it or risk breaking anything else when the tool decides to let go when over 200 foot pounds is being applied
Anyhow that's my opinion based on previous experience you are entitled to your own of course so my socket sets bigger than yours
Oh I agree about the threadloc - must make sure me nuts are clean first
Sierra front hubs are torqued to 240LB/ft and I broke several good quality 1/2" drive breaker bars despite using a impact socket, in the end I ground two flats onto the socket so I could hold it in the vice and then got an old wheel rim and welded 3' of box section to it, that method succeeded when heat, swearing and three 1/2" "breaker bars" failed or in the case of the breaker bars - broke
For £30 I'd rather buy the correct tool for the job and not break it or risk breaking anything else when the tool decides to let go when over 200 foot pounds is being applied
Anyhow that's my opinion based on previous experience you are entitled to your own of course so my socket sets bigger than yours
Oh I agree about the threadloc - must make sure me nuts are clean first
Edited by B@man on Friday 27th March 07:19
I've used 1/2 bars .. but as has been said - it's not really the correct tool for the job. 3/4 inch is best as it wont break.
When you know you are mis-using a tool - you have to be aware of any consiquences .. be it punching the ground with you fist or of metal splinters coming at you at 300 mph.. and of course the cost of replacing a perfectly good tool.
When you know you are mis-using a tool - you have to be aware of any consiquences .. be it punching the ground with you fist or of metal splinters coming at you at 300 mph.. and of course the cost of replacing a perfectly good tool.
B@man said:
Hi Leigh,
Thanks for the offer I'm not local but managed to source suitable 3/4" drive 38mm socket and Sliding T bar off fleabay for £30, as that kind of torque it's just a case of getting it F'kin tight
Tony you are right it's keeping me busy, once the wheel bearing and boot struts are done the next job is going to be refitting the rear section of the drainpipe so it clears the N/S drive shaft !
I think its going to be next to impossible to re-hang the rear exhaust. I had it looked at by my local specialist and I've looked whilst up on ramps. Their comments included phrases such as 'could'nt get a fag paper in there'!! The pipe is as far up as it can go and is held in place pretty tightly at the moment.Thanks for the offer I'm not local but managed to source suitable 3/4" drive 38mm socket and Sliding T bar off fleabay for £30, as that kind of torque it's just a case of getting it F'kin tight
Tony you are right it's keeping me busy, once the wheel bearing and boot struts are done the next job is going to be refitting the rear section of the drainpipe so it clears the N/S drive shaft !
When I got the car the exhaust was still fairly new and had'nt done many miles since fitment. It was rubbing to start with but it had pretty much found its level I think by the time you got it.
Nothing was mentioned at MOT time and so long as the exhaust doesnt rub all the way through i think it'll be fine. Unless you fit a smaller diameter section over the driveshaft i dont think there are many other options.
Will be interested to know though if you can find a complete solution.
Nothing was mentioned at MOT time and so long as the exhaust doesnt rub all the way through i think it'll be fine. Unless you fit a smaller diameter section over the driveshaft i dont think there are many other options.
Will be interested to know though if you can find a complete solution.
350Wedge said:
When I got the car the exhaust was still fairly new and had'nt done many miles since fitment. It was rubbing to start with but it had pretty much found its level I think by the time you got it.
Nothing was mentioned at MOT time and so long as the exhaust doesnt rub all the way through i think it'll be fine. Unless you fit a smaller diameter section over the driveshaft i dont think there are many other options.
Will be interested to know though if you can find a complete solution.
There is a solution .. do it the SEAC way.Nothing was mentioned at MOT time and so long as the exhaust doesnt rub all the way through i think it'll be fine. Unless you fit a smaller diameter section over the driveshaft i dont think there are many other options.
Will be interested to know though if you can find a complete solution.
exit from the box .. straight under the able the 90 degree right then straight to the tail pipe.
B@man said:
Sorry but I disagree !
Sierra front hubs are torqued to 240LB/ft and I broke several good quality 1/2" drive breaker bars despite using a impact socket, in the end I ground two flats onto the socket so I could hold it in the vice and then got an old wheel rim and welded 3' of box section to it, that method succeeded when heat, swearing and three 1/2" "breaker bars" failed or in the case of the breaker bars - broke
For £30 I'd rather buy the correct tool for the job and not break it or risk breaking anything else when the tool decides to let go when over 200 foot pounds is being applied
Anyhow that's my opinion based on previous experience you are entitled to your own of course so my socket sets bigger than yours
Oh I agree about the threadloc - must make sure me nuts are clean first
Arguably, if they broke, they weren't THAT good quality Sierra front hubs are torqued to 240LB/ft and I broke several good quality 1/2" drive breaker bars despite using a impact socket, in the end I ground two flats onto the socket so I could hold it in the vice and then got an old wheel rim and welded 3' of box section to it, that method succeeded when heat, swearing and three 1/2" "breaker bars" failed or in the case of the breaker bars - broke
For £30 I'd rather buy the correct tool for the job and not break it or risk breaking anything else when the tool decides to let go when over 200 foot pounds is being applied
Anyhow that's my opinion based on previous experience you are entitled to your own of course so my socket sets bigger than yours
Oh I agree about the threadloc - must make sure me nuts are clean first
Edited by B@man on Friday 27th March 07:19
Wedge hub nuts are 250lb/ft, I've been using the same 1/2" cracking bar since I got my first TVR a dozen years or more back, it hasn't broken yet and neither has the 1.5" socket that hangs off it... so yes, my experience differs from yours. Maybe some monkey tightened your hub nut without the aid of a torque wrench
I do agree about 'tools for the job' though. The problem these days is that so much crap is churned out in the Far East that finding genuine quality gear is getting harder. Maybe if people stopped buying monkey-metal tools they'd have to stop making them. Cloud cuckoo land, I know...
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