ignition wiring on v6

[slideways]

Can anyone help?
i thought i would change all the the usual service items leads, plugs, points, condenser, coil, now cant get it to fire.i did however change the coil for a twelve volt one and removed the balast resistor,
i have fresh fuel, and a spark going to all the plugs but cant get it to fire i have noticed the spark is orange could i have been sold the wrong plugs??
also i may have wired somthing wrong,so can someone explain which wires go where on the coil
Thanks in advance
Rich

[Adrian@]

The fact you have spark is one thing ...but when do you have spark?
From the ballast, which had a single (12v ignition key on), on one end and a double connection on the other (which is....(1) 12v ignition key turned which comes from the starter and (2)the link wire that connects to the coil + and carries the 12v pulse on ignition key turn and then once the key is released and goes into ignition on position THEN carries the 10v ballasted supply) ...
So the 12 volt single wire goes to you new + post on the coil, the other 2 are no longer required then the rev counter and points wire goes to the - post.
If you need to feed a new temp 12 volt to the coil.
Adrian@

Until the plugs are running they can only ever be a gap to jump so no is the answer to your Q. not until it is running and then only if they are the wrong thread/size/heat range/seat fitting...

Edited by Adrian@ on Wednesday 1st April 21:31

[slideways]

thats stumpped me as i have got a 12v feed to the + post of the 12v coil, dizzy and rev counter on - post,and no ballast resistor
the spark is orange not blue and the fuel is getting to the plugs but it wont even try and catch, battery is fully charged i checked the condensor and it seems to work ok any more ideas as its probably somthing really simple that ive done wrong??

[Monkeythree]

slideways said:

thats stumpped me as i have got a 12v feed to the + post of the 12v coil, dizzy and rev counter on - post,and no ballast resistor
the spark is orange not blue and the fuel is getting to the plugs but it wont even try and catch, battery is fully charged i checked the condensor and it seems to work ok any more ideas as its probably somthing really simple that ive done wrong??

Points gap?
Try another condensor. I've often found new ones to be faulty and had to change a couple until I got one that was actually working.
Check the quality of your earthing. If it was good before, have you disturbed something during the service?

[slideways]

Monkeythree said:

slideways said:

thats stumpped me as i have got a 12v feed to the + post of the 12v coil, dizzy and rev counter on - post,and no ballast resistor
the spark is orange not blue and the fuel is getting to the plugs but it wont even try and catch, battery is fully charged i checked the condensor and it seems to work ok any more ideas as its probably somthing really simple that ive done wrong??

Points gap?
Try another condensor. I've often found new ones to be faulty and had to change a couple until I got one that was actually working.
Check the quality of your earthing. If it was good before, have you disturbed something during the service?

gaps good changed condenser and rechecked earth point all good, just to confirm when checking for a good condensor, with ignition on but not cranking there will be a spark across the points when you separate them but when cranking theres no spark across the gap is this right
Rich

[youngnick1]

Base plate moves smoothly, responding to vacuum advance suction?
[Years ago I lost / replaced the condenser screw with one that was slightly too long!]

Alan

[Adrian@]

The fact you have spark is one thing ...but when do you have spark?
The colour as I see it means nothing, If you did not remove/move the distributor then the timing is basically correct and not 180 degrees out. Then the plugs leads on the wrong way perhaps.
Adrian@

[slideways]

Adrian@ said:

The fact you have spark is one thing ...but when do you have spark?
The colour as I see it means nothing, If you did not remove/move the distributor then the timing is basically correct and not 180 degrees out. Then the plugs leads on the wrong way perhaps.
Adrian@

nope didnt move the distributor so timing should be ok and ive double checked all the leads are correct,

bugger

Edited by slideways on Friday 3rd April 08:22

[youngnick1]

Are the spark plugs wet when removed - indicating fuel is OK?

Alan

[Adrian@]

I had not got even my wife's car here for reference...(so,thanks Ian) the 12v supply you are using...take a new temp feed direct from the battery, the point is that the accessory 12v supply switches off to feed full power for starting, (your car might of been wired incorrectly previously) and check the carb throats for petrol coming in from the accelerator jets as you work the accelerator (if not then easy start it with cleaned plugs) perhaps the fuel pump cannot build pressure.
Adrian@

Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 3rd April 10:18

[ATE399J]

Put it back how it was (as far as possible) change one thing at a time, check it still runs. When it stops you've found the problem.

Phil

[slideways]

there is fuel from the jets, i did think about an extra live feed to the coil so i will try that next.
thanks for the advise, as you can see its not that obvious
Rich