Bearings and brake line advice please :)
Discussion
If yours are the original rubber type ones you can get a full set of steel braided ones for about 40 quid. I have them on mine...an improvement. RT racing sell them. Easy to fit.
I think rear bearings have been covered. You'll probably have to get them pressed out, and then again back in with the new.
Didn't gsx600 do his recently ?
Actually that's not a bad failure list really.
I think rear bearings have been covered. You'll probably have to get them pressed out, and then again back in with the new.
Didn't gsx600 do his recently ?
Actually that's not a bad failure list really.
Edited by grahamw48 on Thursday 2nd April 00:33
Hi Graham!
Not bad at all, and the bearing was a reccomendation not a fail...so quite pleased!
I have the normal rubber ones so moving to braided would be better.
Are they off something else or wedge specific? Only i wanted to do the job saturday morning to get the car back on the road for the weekend...
Not bad at all, and the bearing was a reccomendation not a fail...so quite pleased!
I have the normal rubber ones so moving to braided would be better.
Are they off something else or wedge specific? Only i wanted to do the job saturday morning to get the car back on the road for the weekend...
Not sure whether they're Wedge-specific or not (maybe someone else will), but in any case, fittings are standardised so if you take off the offending pipes ...always replace in pairs, and go along to your motor factors they should be able to dig out some similar ones no problem.
Any metal pipes, as on calipers, can be made up while you wait, by a workshop.
You can even do them yourself (metal ones) with a brake pipe flaring tool and a set of unions.
You need that car in this weather !
Any metal pipes, as on calipers, can be made up while you wait, by a workshop.
You can even do them yourself (metal ones) with a brake pipe flaring tool and a set of unions.
You need that car in this weather !
Just for info (Doing my rear wheel bearing at the moment).
Once you have shifted the hub nut....
etc..
Removing the huge Circlip that retains the bearing is "interesting" you really need a giant set of ratchet circlip pliers or a bit of ingenuity
The bearing knocked out of the housing easily with a brass drift (maybe I'm lucky no press needed) and the replacement knocked back in using the old bearing housing as a drift.
TBH the only problem I came across other than regretting discarding my AF socket set was that the rearmost A frame bolt was sorry is rusted into the shock lower mount, ended up cutting it to get the bearing retainer off the car, new bolts and a second oil seal on their way from RT racing.. (got bearing off ebay so has Granada seals)
Once you have shifted the hub nut....
etc..Removing the huge Circlip that retains the bearing is "interesting" you really need a giant set of ratchet circlip pliers or a bit of ingenuity
The bearing knocked out of the housing easily with a brass drift (maybe I'm lucky no press needed) and the replacement knocked back in using the old bearing housing as a drift.
TBH the only problem I came across other than regretting discarding my AF socket set was that the rearmost A frame bolt was sorry is rusted into the shock lower mount, ended up cutting it to get the bearing retainer off the car, new bolts and a second oil seal on their way from RT racing.. (got bearing off ebay so has Granada seals)
Edited by B@man on Thursday 2nd April 20:18
Ha Ha mine passed first time Matt
Though I did all the work first like rear bearings ujs and steering bearing then crossed my fingers for the rest of it
Going to also get braided hoses very soon in an effort to make bvrakes feel better
As for the rear wheel bearing it's supposed to go something like this
Undo hub nut
Undo drive shaft from diff
gently tap shaft back through hub carrier
remove seal and circlip from back of bearing
gently drift bearing out from front
refit bearing and then do a reverse of previous points
Well good luck with that on a 20 year old car that may or may not have had the bearing replaced
Hub nut not too difficult with the right socket , wrench and 6 foot crow bar ( I can lend you that )
Drive shaft easy to get of diff
So much crud that almost cant see circlip ( can lend you large circlip pliers )
Easier to remove the 2 bolts holding the hub carrier off ( I think you had bushes changed not that long ago, so bolts should still move) then press the bearing out ( I can lend you the press )
Then fit in new bearing supplied from TVR Car Parts as it comes with 2 of the correct seals (don't let the dog chew on one as they don't tend to fit that well afterwards )
I won't go into the machining that I had to have done as well as it was only the pin holding the nut tight as threads were truly knackered
And reassemble as before
If I was you as only advisory I would drive round have fun in the summer and change in the autumn. Or quickly get it done now before the summer starts and its not nagging at the back of your head
Though I did all the work first like rear bearings ujs and steering bearing then crossed my fingers for the rest of it
Going to also get braided hoses very soon in an effort to make bvrakes feel better
As for the rear wheel bearing it's supposed to go something like this
Undo hub nut
Undo drive shaft from diff
gently tap shaft back through hub carrier
remove seal and circlip from back of bearing
gently drift bearing out from front
refit bearing and then do a reverse of previous points
Well good luck with that on a 20 year old car that may or may not have had the bearing replaced
Hub nut not too difficult with the right socket , wrench and 6 foot crow bar ( I can lend you that )
Drive shaft easy to get of diff
So much crud that almost cant see circlip ( can lend you large circlip pliers )
Easier to remove the 2 bolts holding the hub carrier off ( I think you had bushes changed not that long ago, so bolts should still move) then press the bearing out ( I can lend you the press )
Then fit in new bearing supplied from TVR Car Parts as it comes with 2 of the correct seals (don't let the dog chew on one as they don't tend to fit that well afterwards )
I won't go into the machining that I had to have done as well as it was only the pin holding the nut tight as threads were truly knackered
And reassemble as before
If I was you as only advisory I would drive round have fun in the summer and change in the autumn. Or quickly get it done now before the summer starts and its not nagging at the back of your head
matt-man said:
Hey all,
Also, any tips on changing a rear bearing as one is shot.
Give it to someone else! Just had my rear bearings done, took the hubs off and gave them to a local landrover specialist with a big press. I supplied bearings from TVR Car Parts and he charged me 11/2 hours labour, which I was happy to pay after the number of angle grinder discs I used to get them off!Also, any tips on changing a rear bearing as one is shot.
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