Emerald Ignition Help
Discussion
For some strage reason, my ECU is display a different Ignition reading then the strobe light.
If I fix the Ignition in the PC setup to 30 the strobe reads 30.
But when at idle the base map is at 17, but the strobe reads 7.
Its a digital Stap-on strobe, that your can program the advance, so it allways strobs at TDC,
We use a piston stop to make sure we had an accurate TDC. plus as said with a fixed Ignition it's fine.
Going to try and fix at 20, then 10 then 7 to see what results I get.
What Ignition should a RV8 idle at, I'm sure my 400SE flapper with dissy was 7.
Thanks
Leigh
If I fix the Ignition in the PC setup to 30 the strobe reads 30.
But when at idle the base map is at 17, but the strobe reads 7.
Its a digital Stap-on strobe, that your can program the advance, so it allways strobs at TDC,
We use a piston stop to make sure we had an accurate TDC. plus as said with a fixed Ignition it's fine.
Going to try and fix at 20, then 10 then 7 to see what results I get.
What Ignition should a RV8 idle at, I'm sure my 400SE flapper with dissy was 7.
Thanks
Leigh
Don't look at the ignition map, look at the actual ignition timing that the ECU is demanding. Depending how it's configured the ECU could be varying the ignition automatically around idle so you don't actually get the map advance.
If you're using wasted spark the strobe sees twice as many sparks per revolution as it should, so it thinks the engine is running twice as fast and hence doubles all the angles. Check the rpm read-out on your strobe to confirm it's actually reading correctly.
If you're using wasted spark the strobe sees twice as many sparks per revolution as it should, so it thinks the engine is running twice as fast and hence doubles all the angles. Check the rpm read-out on your strobe to confirm it's actually reading correctly.
GreenV8S said:
Don't look at the ignition map, look at the actual ignition timing that the ECU is demanding. Depending how it's configured the ECU could be varying the ignition automatically around idle so you don't actually get the map advance.
If you're using wasted spark the strobe sees twice as many sparks per revolution as it should, so it thinks the engine is running twice as fast and hence doubles all the angles. Check the rpm read-out on your strobe to confirm it's actually reading correctly.
well I've locked the Ignition in the software as it says to setup the trigger wheel relitive position.If you're using wasted spark the strobe sees twice as many sparks per revolution as it should, so it thinks the engine is running twice as fast and hence doubles all the angles. Check the rpm read-out on your strobe to confirm it's actually reading correctly.
and it variries different amounts on the ECU and the strobe depending on the ECU FIXED setting.
Also the strobe is reading twice the RPM, but I would have thought the strobe would be 180 out of the secound fire, and as there are not marking there you wont see anything as such. will double check the RPM again, now its more stable. ( did not like idling at REAL 4/5 degree's)
Just to check ford 36-1 wheel is 35 actual teeth and 1 missing. so each one is 10 degree's
Thanks
Leigh
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
Also the strobe is reading twice the RPM, but I would have thought the strobe would be 180 out of the secound fire, and as there are not marking there you wont see anything as such. will double check the RPM again, now its more stable. ( did not like idling at REAL 4/5 degree's)
This is the problem with wasted spark and timing guns. The wasted spark actually appears in exactly the same place (a non-wasted spark fires every other crank revolution, wasted spark fires once per revolution).The problem comes if you use a gun with timing adjustment in it. The timing adjustment is based on the gun's estimate of the engine speed. With wasted spark it will see twice as many sparks as normal and will calculate the engine speed as twice the actual speed. The timing adjustment in the gun is based on its knowledge of the engine speed. For example if you configure the gun to delay the flash by 10 degrees, it actually works out how long the engine will take to turn through 10 degrees based on the rpm, and delay the spark by the corresponding time. If the engine speed is wrong, the delay will be wrong too. As a result you will find the timing adjustment in the gun is out by a factor of 2.
If you don't use the timing adjustment you won't have this problem, but if you're using it you will need to configure the gun correctly to show the correct rpm.
With the timing light, it will flash double the actual timing given by ecu.
So if ecu demands 10deg, light will flash 20 and so on.
Test at a couple of different timing figures, and rpm's
If things dont tally up, you most likely have something wrong with the ecu settings.
I have never had an issue with my Snap On light reading strange, at any test rpm.
So if ecu demands 10deg, light will flash 20 and so on.
Test at a couple of different timing figures, and rpm's
If things dont tally up, you most likely have something wrong with the ecu settings.
I have never had an issue with my Snap On light reading strange, at any test rpm.
GreenV8S said:
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
as the manual has gone missing.
How are you connecting the gun to the engine?All sorted now I hope.
Added 10 and 20 degree's to pulley. and set gun to zero. and set ecu to 20 and adjusted base setting till they match. then set ECU to 10 and re-tested and they matched. plus did not change with RPM.
was 10 Degree's out though
it's now idleing too high. I thing that's due to adjusting the throttle Idle stop though.TVRleigh_BBWR said:
The rev's read double. the timming should read the same, your just getting an extra strobe at 180 degree's out.
No, the problem is that if you are using timing adjustment in the gun you get double the adjustment you asked for. You should be able to configure the gun to compensate by telling it you have twice as many cylinders (e.g. for wasted spark off 1 cyl you tell the gun it's a 2-cyl engine).GreenV8S said:
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
The rev's read double. the timming should read the same, your just getting an extra strobe at 180 degree's out.
No, the problem is that if you are using timing adjustment in the gun you get double the adjustment you asked for. You should be able to configure the gun to compensate by telling it you have twice as many cylinders (e.g. for wasted spark off 1 cyl you tell the gun it's a 2-cyl engine).stevieturbo said:
There is no problem with adjustable lights.
Mine reads double the actual timing, and works perfectly every time.
If your timing does not read double anywhere other than 0, it is wrong.
Yes all makes sense now.Mine reads double the actual timing, and works perfectly every time.
If your timing does not read double anywhere other than 0, it is wrong.
It does get confusing though, when you timing is out also. and it changing by different amounts.
Going back to zero on the strobe, and marking the pulley was less confusing in the end and saver and simpler. now it's all ok, I'll have another go with the adjuster on the gun, be nice if I can use it correctly (it cost enough)
stevieturbo said:
There is nothing difficult about it.
Dial in 40deg on your light, set the ecu to give 20deg of timing.
If the TDC mark doesnt show when you aim the gun, the ecu settings are wrong.
Well not now when you can think about it with a clear head, and know how it all works.Dial in 40deg on your light, set the ecu to give 20deg of timing.
If the TDC mark doesnt show when you aim the gun, the ecu settings are wrong.
but when you trying to sort 10 other things at the same time and its not making sence, and you have not used wasted spark before it can be confusing.
Gassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff